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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Driving / July 2007

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So I see this Stude for sale...

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Brent P - 06 Jul 2007 00:47 GMT
We turn around to get a closer look at it. I find it looks ok top side,
interior looks good, but it's an AT... I peak under the drivers side see
some nasty rust (and a trans fluid or PS leak)... then I go to the
passenger side... I notice the door isn't fit right... bad sign... so I
crawl under... just a large portion of steel structure is missing...
that's all.  I wonder how much of that body is filler....

So damn difficult to find an interesting car around here that isn't
fatally rusted or the buyer isn't demanding an outragous sum for, or
both.

http://www.geocities.com/tetraethyllead/stude1.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/tetraethyllead/stude2.jpg
Nate Nagel - 06 Jul 2007 00:56 GMT
> We turn around to get a closer look at it. I find it looks ok top side,
> interior looks good, but it's an AT... I peak under the drivers side see
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> http://www.geocities.com/tetraethyllead/stude1.JPG
> http://www.geocities.com/tetraethyllead/stude2.jpg

Yikes... I looked at the 2nd picture first, so I didn't see any
"terminal" rust... then I looked at the first pic and realized it was a
GT Hawk... the torque boxes (known as "hog troughs" to Stude guys) are
completely gone!  As in missing!

It's fixable, but you'd have to either pull the body off the frame or
else get creative with the welding.  New floorpans (the usual rust spot)
and hog troughs are available.

If you're thinking of doing something stupid, check the trailing edge of
the front fenders, as well as the rear fenders in front of the wheel.
Those are the usual rust spots; I probably can find you some inexpensive
rear quarters but C-K front fenders are unobtanium and have been for
quite some time, so your only choice would be to patch what's there, or
else try to make some fiberglas race fenders work.  Also take a good
hard look at the frame, the metal of a Stude frame is very thin - think
thick sheetmetal - and terminal rust there is pretty much a car killer,
unless it's localized to the bottom plate in which case it can be cut
out and repaired.

Personally, I'd have an interesting car imported from somewhere
rust-free, given your location.

Sadly, most GT Hawks were automatics, as they were a somewhat
higher-priced car when new.

nate

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Brent P - 06 Jul 2007 03:26 GMT
>> http://www.geocities.com/tetraethyllead/stude1.JPG
>> http://www.geocities.com/tetraethyllead/stude2.jpg
 
> Yikes... I looked at the 2nd picture first, so I didn't see any
> "terminal" rust... then I looked at the first pic and realized it was a
> GT Hawk... the torque boxes (known as "hog troughs" to Stude guys) are
> completely gone!  As in missing!

There was just enough of the passenger side there to tell me a torque box
was missing. The driver's side that I didn't snap a pic of had more of
it, but there was some sort of cross member or support heading towards
the trans on the drivers side that looked like it might break if I
touched it.

> It's fixable, but you'd have to either pull the body off the frame or
> else get creative with the welding.  New floorpans (the usual rust spot)
> and hog troughs are available.

Way too much work... Only a very special car that I liked (as in I'd
never see another for sale in my lifetime) and could justify paying
someone to do it with a cheap entry price would have me still interested.

> If you're thinking of doing something stupid, check the trailing edge of
> the front fenders, as well as the rear fenders in front of the wheel.
> Those are the usual rust spots;

It was pretty far from home and if it were even halfway decent under
there I would consider buying it... but it was just a disaster under
there.

> Also take a good
> hard look at the frame, the metal of a Stude frame is very thin - think
> thick sheetmetal - and terminal rust there is pretty much a car killer,
> unless it's localized to the bottom plate in which case it can be cut
> out and repaired.

I didn't get that far as the rusted away torque boxes made my decision to
stay away. The frame looked 'ok' on a glance, but who knows what the
inboard sides looked like.

Stopping to look at it was better than being stuck at the back of a 1/4 mile
long line of cars and trucks stuck behind some piece of farm equipment
though...
Harry K - 06 Jul 2007 03:16 GMT
> We turn around to get a closer look at it. I find it looks ok top side,
> interior looks good, but it's an AT... I peak under the drivers side see
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> http://www.geocities.com/tetraethyllead/stude1.JPGhttp://www.geocities.com/tetra
ethyllead/stude2.jpg

Interesting cars?  a mid 30s Buick, wire wheels, fender cutouts for
spares, suicide doors, all complete.  Running when it was parked
around 40 years or more ago.  Quitely disappearing into the dirt floor
it has been sitting on.

Back story.  It was there (still is) when I bought this place 1977.
Daddy died and momma wouldn't selle "he might come back".  Grand
daughter (or great granddaughter) lives there now and she is even
flakier.

Also a Plymouth Fury at a guess late 60s, also running when parked.
Last saw that one in the shed about 4 years ago.

Harry K
Scott en Aztlán - 06 Jul 2007 05:46 GMT
tetraethylleadREMOVETHIS@yahoo.com (Brent P) said in
rec.autos.driving:

>We turn around to get a closer look at it. I find it looks ok top side,
>interior looks good, but it's an AT... I peak under the drivers side see
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>fatally rusted or the buyer isn't demanding an outragous sum for, or
>both.

So stop shopping around there. Come on down to SoCal, where there are
plenty of rust-free antique cars for you to choose from. Fly down on a
one-way ticket and drive back in your new (old) purchase!
Signature

MFFYCam Videos Galore:
http://www.geocities.com/mffycam/
http://slothkills.blip.tv/

Brent P - 06 Jul 2007 06:03 GMT
> So stop shopping around there. Come on down to SoCal, where there are
> plenty of rust-free antique cars for you to choose from. Fly down on a
> one-way ticket and drive back in your new (old) purchase!

recipe for disaster on so many levels...
Scott en Aztlán - 06 Jul 2007 15:39 GMT
tetraethylleadREMOVETHIS@yahoo.com (Brent P) said in
rec.autos.driving:

>> So stop shopping around there. Come on down to SoCal, where there are
>> plenty of rust-free antique cars for you to choose from. Fly down on a
>> one-way ticket and drive back in your new (old) purchase!
>
>recipe for disaster on so many levels...

Just stay out of South Central and you'll be fine.
Signature

MFFYCam Videos Galore:
http://www.geocities.com/mffycam/
http://slothkills.blip.tv/

Studemania - 06 Jul 2007 18:28 GMT
On Jul 6, 7:39 am, Scott en Aztl?n <scottenazt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> tetraethylleadREMOVET...@yahoo.com (Brent P) said in
> rec.autos.driving:
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> --
> MFFYCam Videos Galore:http://www.geocities.com/mffycam/http://slothkills.blip.tv/

To get off to a good start in the old car hpbby, pick out a specific
marque and maybe even a model within it.
Join the major club devoted to it. Studebaker Drivers Club, Hudson-
Essex-Terrepane, Kaiser-Frazer Owners Club. WPC (Chrysler products)
CORSA (Corvairs), Packard Automobile Classics and so on.
Go to meets, join the local chapter, Try out the car, learn how to
examine that particular marque / model and price tem by prior sales,
etc.
Or, look at eBay, find something that looks like fun at that moment,
bid high, and most likely suffer.
 
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