A millivolt is 1/1000th of a volt. A thousand of them is 1V. If you had
only 200 of them, that would be .2 of a volt, not .02.

Work the decimal places back and you'll see:
1.000 V (1,000 millivolts)
0.200 V (200 millivolts)
0.020 V (20 millivolts)

My Integra's is .3V to 4.5V through its range, from closed to WOT.

That's what I thought too, but he differed and he's got a lot more
experience than I do, so I checked it his way. It tested OK either way.

programbo5@aol.com wrote in article
<1150757476.356744.40130@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com>...

While you and thousands of others have had success dealing with "Automotive
Recycling Emporiums" for hard parts, I think you'll find electronics to be
a bit different.

Do you believe these "Purveyors of Junque" actually give a rat's a.s about
things such as static discharge, voltage spikes, and moisture issues when
it comes to electronics?

You may have taken a TPS off a car with a closed hood, but you have no way
of ascertaining whether or not the hood had been left open all winter, and
only closed a week before your arrival.

You don't know if one of the NASA candidates - working in the yard until
they are called to Houston - intentionally dropped a 9/16 wrench across a
battery's posts just to watch it glow.

You don't know if the reason for the car being in the automotive version of
"Shady Acres" in the first place might have, somehow, cracked a circuit
board in the electronic component you are purchasing in the process of
"qualifying" for retirement.

You don't know if the counterman at the yard decided that the computer out
of a 1999 Horse's a.s will fit a 2002 Jackass by simply changing the PROM -
which he did on a dry, winter day while wearing the full tilt of Polyester
clothing, sitting at the boss's desk in the nylon-carpeted office -
resulting in a static discharge that would jump-start many of the derelicts
sitting out in the yard.

I had one "almost-customer" bring me a used alternator. I pointed out that
it was different because of the electrical connection, and he told me the
"mechanic" at the boneyard told him to just change the wire terminal.

When I spun the unit by hand, I could hear and feel the rotor hitting
something internally. He explained that the "mechanic" had to re-clock the
back cover in order to make it fit, and said that the noise would
eventually go away.

While re-clocking an alternator case is a legitimate operation, most of us
do not leave an alternator with the rotor scraping against the field
windings.

As I said, he became an "almost-customer." I could see more
post-installation issues than it was worth.

I am not against using used parts. I run an oval-track race car in a
division requiring stock components, and I am constantly modifying and
replacing chassis parts.

I will not, however, use ANYTHING electronic from a junk yard......PERIOD!