2001 Ford Taurus Air Conditioner

Thread view:

Enable EMail Alerts

Start New Thread

Thread rating:

eaglek96@hotmail.com - 19 Jun 2006 15:33 GMT

Hi All,

I have a 2001 Ford Taurus that I have been very happy with until
recently. A few weeks ago, when it first started to get hot, I turned
on my air conditioner for some relief. The air was nice and cold for a
few minutes, then all the sudden I could tell it was no longer working,
since the air started to get warm and humid. Further investigation
helped me realize that the compressor was not engaging.

Thinking that maybe the compressor was just low on oil I bought a can
of R134 and filled it back up to the safe level. The air conditioner
was blowing nice and cold afterwards, although I only ran it for 10
mins or so in the driveway.

Yesterday I took the car out for a spin on the hottest day of the year
so far (90F or so). The air conditioner was nice and cold for about
10-15 minutes, and then the compressor kicked off yet again and the
cabin heated up to unbearable temps. I stopped in at my local parts
store and the tech there put a gauge on the low side of the system and
confirmed that the A/C pressure was correct. (I believe it was about
35, but I dont remember exactly. It was in the green) Whenever we
tried adding coolant, the pressure would go up a little, and then
settle back down to 35 or so. It seemed impossible to overfill.

On the cooler days, this doesn't seem to happen. Only on the warmer
days have I noticed it. After it shuts off, the only way I can seem to
find that gets it going again is to turn off the car and let it sit for
a bit before it will eventually kick back on.

I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas of where to look. I don't know
if I have a leak, or if some other part is out of whack. It seems
strange to me that it works till it warms up, and then quits. If I had
a leak, I would think it would leak out to the point where the
compressor no longer engages. I know they have sensors in them that
disengage the compressor when the levels get too low.

I'm hoping that I don't have to pay big bucks at a local repair shop to
get this fixed. Since I usually do my own work, I want to make sure I
do my own due diligence first. Thanks for any help in advance.

Reply to this Message

Bob Urz - 19 Jun 2006 18:05 GMT

> Hi All,
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Thinking that maybe the compressor was just low on oil

YOu meant to say low on refrigerant

I bought a can

> of R134 and filled it back up to the safe level.

What's a safe level?
The air conditioner

> was blowing nice and cold afterwards, although I only ran it for 10
> mins or so in the driveway.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> confirmed that the A/C pressure was correct. (I believe it was about
> 35, but I dont remember exactly.

Find someone with a clue. YOu need a gauge set that reads both the low
and high side to really know what's going on in a A/C system.
The high side pressures are going to tell someone who knows if
you have a problem with over pressure.

It was in the green) Whenever we

> tried adding coolant, the pressure would go up a little, and then
> settle back down to 35 or so. It seemed impossible to overfill.

Danger Will Robinson! How do you know? Its the HIGH SIDE you need
to be looking at now.

> On the cooler days, this doesn't seem to happen. Only on the warmer
> days have I noticed it. After it shuts off, the only way I can seem to
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> get this fixed. Since I usually do my own work, I want to make sure I
> do my own due diligence first. Thanks for any help in advance.

If your intent on doing this yourself, buy a gauge set and take readings
with the car AC cold and AC malfunctioning. They post the readings.
Harbor freight has some more affordable R134 sets.

Bob

Reply to this Message

eaglek96@hotmail.com - 19 Jun 2006 18:24 GMT

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the reply.

> YOu meant to say low on refrigerant

You are correct. I was thinking one thing and typing another.

> What's a safe level?

When I said safe level, I was referring to what the A/C gauge set on
the low side had marked as "Full - Safe Range". I believe the range
was between 30 and 45, give or take 5. I don't remember the exact
numbers as I really don't have a great memory.

> Find someone with a clue. You need a gauge set that reads both the low
> and high side to really know what's going on in a A/C system.
> The high side pressures are going to tell someone who knows if
> you have a problem with over pressure.

I think the next step may be the garage, depending on what they quote
me to look at it. I'm not too keen on paying lots of money right now
and might suffer through the heat. I may buy a dual gauge set just to
see what's going on myself and then decide.

The fortunate thing is that I didn't really add much refrigerant, maybe
1/2 of the small cans they sell. I didn't want to overdo it in case
there was another problem. I was hoping that since the car had a good
number of miles, and since I always use the A/C, that maybe it was a
simple refrigerant level issue. Obviously I know it's not now which is
why I was asking for advice.

> Danger Will Robinson! How do you know? Its the HIGH SIDE you need
> to be looking at now.

> If you're intent on doing this yourself, buy a gauge set and take readings
> with the car AC cold and AC malfunctioning. They post the readings.
> Harbor freight has some more affordable R134 sets.

I definitely know that now. I'll have to see what that looks like and
get back the groups here. It's frustrating for me because I just paid
the car off a month ago, and the warranty expired in November. When
you're used to doing things on your own, it's tough to realized that
some things need special tools and expert advice.

Thanks again.
Rob

Reply to this Message

Don - 20 Jun 2006 02:40 GMT

You need to start with the basics. Diagnosing refrigerant fill level
can be done ONLY TO A DEGREE through pressures. You have to read high
and low side both, you have to understand how these are subject to
ambient temperature and humidity. Readings should be taken at about
1750 rpm and allowed to stabilize. Pressure readings WILL mislead
you regarding the level of refrigerant charge should there be any of
the following situations:

1. A weak compressor
2. Air or moisture in the system
3. A restricted expansion tube/valve or any restriction elsewhere.
4. A missing or broken expansion tube or wide open expansion valve.
5. Poor air flow through the condensor.
6. An evaporator core coated with a mat of dog hair or leaf mulch.
7. Some kind of bogus "refrigerant" has been put in the system.
8. There is a gross excess of refrigerant oil in the system.
(Compressor a little noisy? Add more oil. Still noisy add STILL more
oil....WRONG!!!!)

For all but the most routine service the only way to go is to evacuate
the system -- taking note of how much refrigerant was removed -- and
then refill it to factory spec. This requires a professional's AC
recycling machine. A good recycling machine will take care of air or
moisture contamination. If should produce reasonable pressure
readings ON THE HIGH AND LOW SIDE BOTH and cool well. It should
satisfy the electrical controls for the compressor also. If not, see
#1, #3-#6, #8.

Occasionally duct work or hot/cold blend door problems are the
culprit. .

Don
www.donsautomotive.com

Reply to this Message