The most important task to do is to adjust antifreeze for this temperature.
You also can insulate your battery by polystyrene.

This thinks are very common and no problem with air intake, but don't forget
to remove it if temperature rising to prevent overheating.

Regards,

Ralf

I have gotten along very well with electrical block warmers.
I also used what we called a 'coupe warmer', which was just
an appropriate electrical heater inside the car.  This makes it
a lot more pleasant, helps keep ice and water out of the interior,
and helps keep the doors from freezing up.

It was not so expensive to retrofit this kind of equipment last
time I checked.

Some people swear by synthetic oil, and it is probably a good
measure as well.   I used it one one car, but not on the other.
Neither ever gave me problems, but our temperatures were not
usually as cold as what you might experience.  It was seldom
lower than -15 to -25C.

Engine block heater, an interior electrical heater, preferably with a
multi-speed fan [the type that plugs into your cigarette lighter works
well and is moveable, which is good feature]. Lightweight oil in the
crank, say a very good 5w30. Good A/Fmix, fresh, and mixed for the
general temperatures you will drive in. Ranges are usually on the A/F
bottles. Drain and refill [don't flush] trans, transfer case and rear
end with good synthetic oil [if recommended or suggested by manuf.].
Lube all points under car, such as linkages, cable ends, etc. Clean off
the starter and battery contacts well. Insulate the battery. May be a
good idea to also replace the thermostat with a higher temp. rating
than stock.  Keep around and use gas line AF, or carb-cleaner to put
into gas tank to help remove moisture from gas system.

Once you are up there, you may want to do more, but by then you should
know some people who may have some suggestions for ya, since they drive
up there daily.

Actually, at -20, most cars don't need that much in the short-term, but
better to get it done than have a no-start condition, ya know?

Good luck in School!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Like others have mentioned, a block heater for starts.  I think the ones
that fit into a 'frost' plug are the best, but lots of folks like the
ones that go into the rad hose because it is supposed to circulate fluid
better by convection.  

A battery blanket (electric blanket) and/or a trickle charger
permanently mounted to the battery to keep the battery warm.  

All these can be on a timer set to go off a couple hours before you plan
on leaving.  They do draw a lot of power.  I found 2 hours on a 350 GM
engine at -40 is about what's needed.  Colder, add more time.

I really don't like interior electric heaters.  I think they cause too
much condensation which freezes up doors or door trims.

All your door trim rubbers should be sprayed down with silicone spray to
stop them from sticking to the frame.  If your door sticks shut and you
yank on the door handle at -45 or colder, it is likely to just snap off
in your hand and the trim will shred.  Have seen that happen a few
times....

Keep lock deicer outside the vehicle!  They sell small ones that fit
into inside coat pockets.  ;-)  Having super clean and dry locks seems
to be the best.  If anything folks that had to have 'something' in them
only used graphite.  Messy, but they didn't seem to freeze up.  Best is
to not have anything inside to steal and leave them unlocked.

Lots of folks use a summer and a different winter mix on the antifreeze
because the winter mix might cause overheating in the hot summer traffic
if you go south.  The rad blockers help you have interior heat, you just
have to open them as it gets warmer out.  

Gear oil is pretty much a solid at -45 and 10W30 oil will come out in a
blob if you squeeze the bottle upside down, then suck back up into the
bottle when you stop squeezing.  A standard tranny will go forward in
neutral when you let the clutch out just because the gear oil is so
thick.  Synthetics are nice then....

And just because electricity isn't always available, I used to carry
either a cheap hibachi or like my buddy, carried a steel garbage can lid
and charcoal briquettes.  You can light up the BBQ, then once the coals
are hot, you slide it under the oil pan.  This will warm up the engine
and engine bay amazingly fast and give you a start.  You have to watch
where you put it, but after a long day ice fishing or skiing or coming
out from camping, you really want the truck to go....  We would get one
running, all pile in to warm up while the BBQ was doing the next
engine.  They get so cold a boost won't even work.

Good luck in College!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

I lived for 13 years where low temp was minus 30 F. I used a radiator hose
heater and a battery heater ( this was inserted under battery) Had them on a
timer. 2 hours before going to work. Used 10-30 oil. Drove real slow for
first 1/2 mile to churn up gear boxes oil. Never had a problem. 289 ci
engine. WW

Good points, Mike, re door trim and lock deicer!!

And, as Warren said, think of cold fluids at start-up, drive-train
fluids are susceptible to cold, Jeff has mentioned this. The mechanical
premise they are saying, is that, even with warmed engine, non-drive,
the rest of the power train remains very cold. Due to the heavier
viscosities these down-site trasmission and drives use, the thicker
they get. Sort of like moving a spoon into heavy mollasses [ just a
simple analogy, lol].

Do check with folks you meet up there, or even some of our
colder-weather respondents, to get more info. What we all replied was
good.

And again, good luck in school, but I truly wonder why a Fairbanks
University??!!. LOL.

New battery if yours has a couple years on it.  Keep the old one
for a spare you can keep warm and charged indoors.  High CCA of
course.

Check the histirical weather record on weather.com for some idea about
how cold it can get in winter.

The rear end is probably going to be pretty light in snow...plan on
adding some weight to the bed for traction.

Freezing conditions are no problem for almost any car.  You will be in
sub-zero temperatures which are an entirely different matter.  Try to
store your truck inside a garage.  Make sure all fluids have been
changed and that oil is of the proper viscosity for ultra-cold
temperatures.  Plan on having the truck fitted with a block heater that
is plugged in when you leave it for a while.  Get a new battery.  Drive
with blankets, etc., sufficient to kkeep you bwarm in the event of a
breakdown.

I already know

Synthetic lubricants.  change EVERYTHING to synthetic.  Engine oil,
transmission fluid, rear axle lube, even have the bearings repacked with
syn. if you have the time/inclination/money.  Conventional oil will turn
to goo at the temps that you can see up there, synthetic will thicken
some too but not as much.

As others have suggested, if you don't have a garage to park it in, you
will definitely need a block heater, and some kind of mechanism to keep
the battery from freezing as well.

I don't really have any experience with winters much below, say, -10F...
 so there may be something I'm missing.  There's a BIG difference
between merely frostbite cold and the kind of cold you're talking about.
 But the above is a good place to start.

good luck,

nate

(a little jealous, always wanted to go to Alaska.)