Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / July 2006

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

carb spacer recommendations?

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Nate Nagel - 08 Jul 2006 01:36 GMT
Hi all,

I'm trying to finish up the engine for my '55 Stude coupe; it's a
R1-spec (high compression) 289 that I've thrown some dress-up pieces at.
 One of the additions is an aluminum intake manifold.  I'm planning on
using an Edelbrock "Thunder Series" AVS carb on it.

Question is this:  the carb's linkage will not clear the manifold
without a spacer.  The manifold itself is not "open" - rather it has
four holes where the butterflies are.  I have a cheap aluminum spacer
that I used to get everything to fit but here's where the questions start.

1) I am leaning towards a phenolic or wood spacer to insulate the carb.
 I realize that too cool is as bad as too hot but with the volatility
of modern fuels I'm more worried about vapor lock and boiling over after
shutdown than I am about poor atomization.  Agree/disagree?

2) Most of the "4-hole" spacers that I've seen are made for Holley carbs
and have similar sized holes for the primaries and secondaries.  The
AVS, and the manifold (being based on an old Studebaker "R3" casting
designed for use with an AFB) both have primaries smaller than the
secondaries.  Would it negate the advantages of using a "4-hole" spacer
to open up the holes in the manifold to eliminate the "step" where the
manifold is smaller than the hole in the spacer?  If so, does anyone
make a spacer "blank" that I could drill as I desired, or am I looking
at rolling my own from a piece of hardwood?

3) am I just all worried about nothing and should I just run a divided
spacer and open up the manifold completely?

This car is basically going to be a cruiser, although with the R1 engine
I am hoping for a bit of a kick to it.  Drivetrain will be a wide-ratio
T10 with aluminum flywheel and diaphragm clutch (already together)
backed with the stock Dana 44 rear end (3.31:1 ratio.)  Future plans
will probably be limited to some head work and maybe a different rear
end (probably either 3.31 or 3.54 due to desire to be able to drive on
the highway, but limited slip) unless my finances change drastically.

I know that I am probably overthinking this, but I have a desire to
build this car "right" and really don't have the experience with carbs
and spacers to know exactly what happens when you do various things with
them.

thanks,

nate

Signature

replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Stan Weiss - 08 Jul 2006 05:00 GMT
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 46 lines]
> replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
> http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

How thick does the spacer needed to be? You could made your own by using
1/8" aluminum plate and carb gaskets and alternate them for the
thickness you need. I know many years ago that these were sold in speed
sports. If you want your carb to look bigger to the engine or want to
increase high end HP use an open spacer else use a 4 hole spacer.
Stan
Stan
Nate Nagel - 08 Jul 2006 12:20 GMT
>>Hi all,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 54 lines]
> Stan
> Stan

about 1/2", even if I use gaskets though I am left with having to open
up the primaries because the gaskets have a bigger hole in them than the
manifold, does this extra diameter make a real difference or am I
worrying over nothing?

thanks,

nate

Signature

replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Stan Weiss - 08 Jul 2006 15:28 GMT
> >>Hi all,
> >>
[quoted text clipped - 63 lines]
>
> nate

If all you use is gaskets the size maybe a problem. If you make aluminum
plates you can make the hole any size you want. To look at this from a
different angle. The piece of carb linkage that is hitting the manifold
is it needed or can it be cut off?
Stan

> --
> replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
> http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
Nate Nagel - 08 Jul 2006 15:50 GMT
>>>>Hi all,
>>>>
[quoted text clipped - 69 lines]
> is it needed or can it be cut off?
> Stan

I'd rather not cut it off; it's not needed on this app. but if the carb
turns out to be too big for the engine I'd like it to still be there so
I could pass the carb on to one of my Chevy-driving friends or sell it.
 Would be easier to grind the manifold down, but then I'd have to
re-polish that area.

nate

Signature

replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Stan Weiss - 08 Jul 2006 17:22 GMT
> >>>>Hi all,
> >>>>
[quoted text clipped - 75 lines]
>   Would be easier to grind the manifold down, but then I'd have to
> re-polish that area.

It looks like the only option is to go to Lowes or Home Depot get some
1/2" plywood and make a spacer. Use the dimensions from the carb, bore
centerlines and diameters. The smaller size will help mixture velocity a
very small amount over the larger manifold size and the miss match at
the manifold will be no problem.
Stan

> nate
>
> --
> replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
> http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
HLS@nospam.nix - 08 Jul 2006 13:35 GMT
> 1) I am leaning towards a phenolic or wood spacer to insulate the carb.
>   I realize that too cool is as bad as too hot but with the volatility
> of modern fuels I'm more worried about vapor lock and boiling over after
> shutdown than I am about poor atomization.  Agree/disagree?

I would want the fuel up to and through the carburetor to be as cool as
reasonably possible.  Hence, I would go with a phenolic spacer, I believe.

> 2) Most of the "4-hole" spacers that I've seen are made for Holley carbs
> and have similar sized holes for the primaries and secondaries.  The
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> make a spacer "blank" that I could drill as I desired, or am I looking
> at rolling my own from a piece of hardwood?

I think I would use a standard spacer and see how it runs.  Remember that
the old 428 Cobra Jet Furd had an intake manifold that did not match the
ports well at all, but the turbulence was either a positive factor OR didnt
seem to cause any harm.

You can buy phenolic stock at some supply companies and make anything
you want with a selection of hole saws or a flycutter.  This should be an
easy homebrew.  If you dont have a local supplier, check to see what
McMaster
Carr has (I think this is the right name.  They arent cheap, but they are
accessible.)

> 3) am I just all worried about nothing and should I just run a divided
> spacer and open up the manifold completely?

I would save this for the eventuality 'if all else fails'. I believe in
starting
as simply as possibly, and getting myself in trouble later.
HLS@nospam.nix - 09 Jul 2006 16:52 GMT
By the way, Nate, I saw a whole bunch of spacers at Summit's site, but don't
know if any would
have the configuration to help you.
Nate Nagel - 10 Jul 2006 22:18 GMT
>>1) I am leaning towards a phenolic or wood spacer to insulate the carb.
>>  I realize that too cool is as bad as too hot but with the volatility
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> starting
> as simply as possibly, and getting myself in trouble later.

Well here's what I did.  I needed to order some stuff from Speedway
anyway (they seem to be the only source on the planet for AN sized
stainless steel washers, and I am going nuts on the detailing with this
engine...) so I looked through what they had online, found a 1/2"
phenolic spacer for a 390 CFM holley, I ordered one and figured I could
just "port" it for the AVS.

Now that I'm typing this out, I just realized that I hope it has both
sets of bolt holes, we will find out if I screwed up or not this weekend
I guess.

nate

Signature

replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

HLS@nospam.nix - 10 Jul 2006 23:47 GMT
> Now that I'm typing this out, I just realized that I hope it has both
> sets of bolt holes, we will find out if I screwed up or not this weekend
> I guess.
>
> nate

I have no doubt you will make it work, Nate.
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.