 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / July 20061966 chevy engine oil leak fix plan
I have a 1966 Chevy II with a 6 cylinder engine in it. The engine has some small oil leaks that I want to correct. It's been over 30 years since I last rebuilt an engine and I don't recall the details of that effort. Of course good ol Dad was there then too. I'm most curious about how to correct the rear seal of the crankshaft. Below I've listed my plans and some questions I already have. Please advise me on gasket selection, procedure and anything else you think would help. Planned Gaskets/Seals to be replaced. 1. Gasket for valve cover. 2. Gasket for fuel pump. 3. Gasket for timing chain cover. 4. Seal in timing chain cover for harmonic balance/crankshaft. 5. Gasket for oil pan. 5. Seal at rear of crankshaft. Questions. 1. Regarding the Seal, for the harmonic balance, in the timing chain cover, a. should I precoat the seal-harmonic balance mating surface with anything during assembly? b. is a glue/sealant applied to the seal-timing cover mating surface during assembly? 2. Regarding the Seal at the rear of the crankshaft, a. can this be easily replaced? I'm suspecting that replacing this would require loosening the bearing journals holding the crankshaft in the block and that would be too risky. Thanks, Charlie > I have a 1966 Chevy II with a 6 cylinder engine in it. The engine has > some small oil leaks that I want to correct. It's been over 30 years [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Please advise me on gasket selection, procedure and anything else you > think would help. First step: obtain and read dervice manual. Second, follow procedure therein. <snip> > Questions. > 1. Regarding the Seal, for the harmonic balance, in the timing chain cover, > a. should I precoat the seal-harmonic balance mating surface with > anything during assembly? Yes. Motor oil. If the snout of the harmonic balancer has a groove worn in it, install a speedy sleeve. > b. is a glue/sealant applied to the seal-timing cover mating surface > during assembly? Depends on the seal. Some come with a bead of sealer already applied, if not, I'd use #2 Permatex. > 2. Regarding the Seal at the rear of the crankshaft, > a. can this be easily replaced? Depends on your definition of easy. > I'm suspecting that replacing this > would require loosening the bearing journals holding the crankshaft in > the block and that would be too risky. If the original/replacement seal is a rope seal, loosening the crank and allowing it to drop can make things easier, the crank won't drop until the transmission is disconnected though. Not a big deal if it's an automatic, bigger deal if it's a manual trans. If a rubber seal, they go in and out pretty easy. Nothing risky about dropping a crankshaft a few thousandths, man put it together, man can take it apart. > <snip> > [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > big deal if it's an automatic, bigger deal if it's a manual trans. > If a rubber seal, they go in and out pretty easy. You do not drop the trans ! > Nothing risky about dropping a crankshaft a few thousandths, man > put it together, man can take it apart. In article <1153344364.514588.78500@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>, > > <snip> > > [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > > You do not drop the trans ! They don't bounce very well? > In article > <1153344364.514588.78500@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>, [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > > > You do not drop the trans ! LOL > They don't bounce very well? Thanks for the reply. The engine will be out of the car and seperated from the transmission and clutch assembly. If I loosen the main being journals of the crank to make space for replacing the rear seal does that create a large risk of future main bearing problems? Charlie > <snip> > [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > Nothing risky about dropping a crankshaft a few thousandths, man > put it together, man can take it apart. Since you're already doing the work of pulling the motor and getting it on a stand, and since you're pulling the pan and timing cover anyway to replace gaskets, what better opportunity to put in new rod / main bearings, oil pump, and timing set. Those parts are relatively inexpensive - should go less than $150 - and if you do it, you'll be sure of the bottom end for years to come. If you decide not to go that route, and just replace the seals and gaskets, the operative word is cleanliness. Before cracking the mains caps, be sure everything is spotlessly clean, to avoid the chance of any particles getting trapped between the crank and bearings. And ditto on the balancer repair sleeve - on an engine of that vintage, its almost certain that the soft iron snout of the balancer will have a groove in it. The last two I built, a 77 4bolt main 350, and an 85 4.3 v6 both had worn balancers.  SignatureV8Z Chevy V6 powered '66 Datsun Roadster http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/ Chevy V8 powered '77 Datsun 280Z http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/ > Thanks for the reply. > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > > <snip> Cool thread. :) Alvin in AZ ('75 F150 360 T-18) |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.