repairing rusted rocker panel

Thread view:

Enable EMail Alerts

Start New Thread

Thread rating:

wiley1@anonmail.de - 11 Aug 2006 16:19 GMT

I have a 1997 Geo Metro. One of the rocker panels is badly rusted. You
can't really see it from the outside, but I'm pretty sure that a 4' x
4" section is rusted on the inside. If it can last for another 4 years
or so, that would be acceptable to me. I'm coming up for a saftey on
the car and was told that as long as it's reasonably covered up and
there are no holes it will pass the saftey. The hole right now is 6" x
4". I'm thinking of using a fiberglass and bondo kit though it will
probably fall out after awhile. The other option is to cut out all the
rusted metal and weld a piece of sheet metal over it. The problem is
that this metal will have to be shaped around the contour of the rocker
panel. I got an estimate of $500 to do this. The rest of the body is in
pretty good condition, but I'm a little short of bread and question if
the value of the car is worth putting at least $500 into repairing it.
My questions are: 1) how long do you think the rocker panel will last
if I don't fix it 2) what do you think is the best solution.

Reply to this Message

* - 11 Aug 2006 21:58 GMT

wiley1@anonmail.de wrote in article
<1155309559.131819.273710@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>...

> I have a 1997 Geo Metro. One of the rocker panels is badly rusted. You
> can't really see it from the outside, but I'm pretty sure that a 4' x
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> My questions are: 1) how long do you think the rocker panel will last
> if I don't fix it 2) what do you think is the best solution.

RE: Question #1.....

The rocker panel is junk right now. It is doing absolutely nothing for the
structural integrity of the car.

RE: Question #2......

The absolute BEST solution is another car.....

You are talking about structural damage here.

The rocker panel on a unibody car IS the "frame" or "chassis".

When it rusts through, the structural integrity of the car is severely
compromised.

Maybe the car will not break in half while driving it, but a decent hit - a
stoplight rear-ender at 35 m.p.h. for example - could easily cause the car
to fold in around the occupants. I have towed a fair share of these cars
away from accidents - often in two trips !!!

To repair it correctly requires replacing the metal with metal of equal
strength, welded into place.

Fiberglass won't do it.....

Bondo won't do it......

Aluminum tape won't do it......

Pop Rivets won't do it.......

Yes!

I consider it to be THAT serious....

Apparently you are having a problem deciding whether or not your a.s is
worth $500 for a structurally-correct repair.....

I can't help you there.......

As the late Richie Evans once observed..."If you have a $10 head, you can
get away with buying a $10 crash helmet."

Reply to this Message

TeGGeR® - 11 Aug 2006 23:01 GMT

> I have a 1997 Geo Metro. One of the rocker panels is badly rusted. You
> can't really see it from the outside, but I'm pretty sure that a 4' x
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> 1) how long do you think the rocker panel will last if I don't fix it

Impossible to say without actually seeing it. Got a photo?

> 2) what do you think is the best solution.

Pretty much anything that gets past the inspection is OK.
If I were you, I'd cover it up with sheet aluminum and sheet metal screws,
then spray paint it. That solution will last the longest.

I know some folks have strong opinions about the integrity of the outer
rocker panels, but these are relatively unimportant in modern cars. The
rocker panel assembly consists of three sections boxed together. It's the
outer one everybody's concerned about because it's the one you can see.

Where I live, it's not uncommon to see 15-20 year-old cars (notably Hondas
and Ford Aerostars) with their outer rocker panels completely gone. When
these cars are raised on hoists, the structure appears unaffected by the
loss of the outer panel. The doors can still be opened and closed as
normal.

Patch 'er up and forget about it.

Signature

TeGGeR®

Reply to this Message

wiley1@anonmail.de - 12 Aug 2006 00:23 GMT

Thanks for the advice. Did you mean I should get rid of all the rust
first? Also, I guess I should drill small holes first and then use
scews, then bondo it, and sand it smooth.

> > My questions are:
> >
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Patch 'er up and forget about it.

Reply to this Message

TeGGeR® - 12 Aug 2006 00:52 GMT

>> Where I live, it's not uncommon to see 15-20 year-old cars (notably
>> Hondas and Ford Aerostars) with their outer rocker panels completely
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> first? Also, I guess I should drill small holes first and then use
> scews, then bondo it, and sand it smooth.

In your case, it's not necessary to do anything at all about the existing
rust. You're just trying to (as cheaply as possible) make a car pass
inspection for a few years. If you take a longer-term view, then some
consideration should be given to slowing corrosion.

Just make sure the aluminum covers the affected area sufficiently to allow
for rust consumption.

You can drill holes for the sheet metal screws if you like, but if you use
a drill with a screwdriver bit, the screw will make its own hole. The
"drill your own hole" approach works better in Canada, with our Robertson
square-head screws. It can get a bit difficult to keep Phillips screws
seated in the bit while pushing hard on the drill.

Signature

TeGGeR®

Reply to this Message

Ted Mittelstaedt - 14 Aug 2006 08:44 GMT

> I have a 1997 Geo Metro. One of the rocker panels is badly rusted. You
> can't really see it from the outside, but I'm pretty sure that a 4' x
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> there are no holes it will pass the saftey. The hole right now is 6" x
> 4".

If it were mine I'd put duct tape over it, then spraypaint over it. Once
rust gets started like that, the only way to really repair it is to cut away
all
the affected metal, grind out all the rust, then assess where you are
and start welding in new metal.

Ted

Reply to this Message