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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / August 2006

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radiator vs. condenser headache

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leebert - 13 Aug 2006 19:51 GMT
Hi

I'm looking at possibly what it'd take to pull the radiator on my RV...
I got under the rig & I could drop the radiator EXCEPT for 2 A/C lines
going to the condenser just happen to be in the way (@#$% ).

What would the procedure be for disconnecting the condenser A/C
refrigerant lines w/out risking exposing the A/C dryer and accumulator
to air (and are they *that* prone to being ruined by air exposure??).
Would I have to take it to a shop to get them to disconnect those two
lines & capture the R-132a ?

Or, does one just stick an oil rag in the end of the hoses? ;-)

Thanx in advance,

/lee
Steve B. - 13 Aug 2006 20:46 GMT
>Hi
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
>/lee

Take it in and have the 134a reclaimed.  Then you can disconnect the
lines at home when you are ready to pull the radiator and cap them
off.  Normally I wrap them in plastic and use rubber bands to hold it
on while working on the system.

And yes, the dryer is THAT prone to being ruined by air exposure.  The
purpose of the dryer is to absorb moisture in the system.  The
desiccant can become saturated in minutes when exposed to humid air.
In this case I would replace the dryer anyway just to be sure as you
need every ounce of performance that the a/c can give you in your
application.

                       Steve B.
Ted Mittelstaedt - 14 Aug 2006 08:04 GMT
> >Hi
> >
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> purpose of the dryer is to absorb moisture in the system.  The
> desiccant can become saturated in minutes when exposed to humid air.

That is an apocryphal myth that has circulated for some time, helped
no doubt by the manufacturers of auto parts.

Yes, the dryer can become saturated by exposure to humid air.  But the
process would take many hours to days if you just uncapped it and let it
sit.
Remember the construction of the dryer (or accumulator if you have that kind
of system) is such that the coolant must be circulated inside of it, through
the
dessicant.  And the idea that a dryer that is buried behind a half meter of
AC line would absorb significant moisture is even more absurd.  Once the
A/C line reaches atmospheric pressure, the remaining refrigerant is not
going
to come out of the line if you have capped off the lines with tape.

The biggest problem here is that the average home mechanic does not have
the tools to do this kind of operation with any success.  Here's what needs
to be done:

1) Take the vehicle to an A/C shop and have them reclaim the refrigerant
and let the line pressure drop to atmospheric.

2) Disconnect the A/C lines.

3) R&R the radiator.

4) Replace the O-rings on the ends of the A/C lines disconnected.

5) Reconnect the A/C lines.

6) Evacuate the system with a vacuum.  Repressurize the system with
R134a.  Check for leaks.

Items 1 & 6 generally cannot be done at home.

> In this case I would replace the dryer anyway just to be sure as you
> need every ounce of performance that the a/c can give you in your
> application.

A complete waste of money and it just gives 2 more areas that you
could possibly not get a good seal back on, and more leaks.  Also, if
your really convinced that your dryer is full of water, all you have to
do is bake it in an oven at about 225 degrees overnight (above the
boiling point of water, and below the flash/firing point of the refrigerant
oil) this will drive all the water out of it and it will be good as new.
The
oven might stink afterwards, though. ;-)

Ted
leebert - 15 Aug 2006 14:45 GMT
> > >Hi
> > >
[quoted text clipped - 72 lines]
>
> Ted

I learn something new every day.... !

Do you suppose I could get the A/C shop to reroute those lines for the
next time I need to do something to this rig 15 years down the line ?
;-)

/lee
Paul - 20 Aug 2006 02:09 GMT
If you've got the bucks, the hardware is available.  You could;

            A   Have Refrigeration Repair company install  long flex
lines after evacuating,  tie lines out of way to service radiator

       B  Get the shop to add schrader type fittings, allowing you to
   disconnect hoses at  manifold   Both lines and evaporator would be
so equipt, flex hoses connect both manifolds

       C  Have system evacuated,  and lines capped.   I question whether
your RV fits inside local radiator shop , if not  they could do it
outdoors.  After radiator repair, uncap, re evacuate and recharge
 
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