I rounded the bleeder screw

I rounded the bleeder screw - what now?

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bryanska - 27 Aug 2006 04:21 GMT

Hi,

I bled the brakes in my 2002 Alero yesterday, for what I plan is the
only time. I'd like to know the bleeding process I'll have to follow,
now that I have to replace one bleeder screw.

Two of the bleeder screws were rounded in the process. I used a flare
nut wrench specifically designed for softer fasteners.

One of these rounded screws was apparently not tight enough. I
discovered it was leaking. I capped off the bleeder screw with a small
plastic cap and hose clamp. Today I plan on buying new bleeder screws
and installing them.

I understand I'll have to re-bleed the wheel where I'm replacing the
screw.

1) Will I have to re-bleed all the wheels?

2) Will I have to bleed the master cylinder?

I'm not looking forward to this, but I have a Mity Vac and hopefully
that wil make things better.

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halatos@gmail.com - 27 Aug 2006 05:15 GMT

> Two of the bleeder screws were rounded in the process. I used a flare
> nut wrench specifically designed for softer fasteners.

Common problem with 'cheap' flare nut wrenches. Vice-grip makes a nice
v-groove wrench for just this job that will not round out a fastener.
Just an FYI if you have to do this job again.

> One of these rounded screws was apparently not tight enough. I
> discovered it was leaking. I capped off the bleeder screw with a small
> plastic cap and hose clamp. Today I plan on buying new bleeder screws
> and installing them.

Good.

> 1) Will I have to re-bleed all the wheels?

If all of the fluid leaked out of the system, then yes. And yes to your
2nd question too, if the master cylinder reservoir completely emptied
out then you need to bleed the WHOLE system. If all you had was a leak
at one wheel and you capped it off before it drained the system, then
you probably don't need to bleed any of the wheels except the one that
was leaking, and even at the leaking wheel you won't need to bleed it
very much. Put the new screw in, bleed it once and if you don't see any
air then tighten it up and forget about it.

Good luck with it.

Chris

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Mike Romain - 27 Aug 2006 15:38 GMT

I always just use a socket wrench for bleeder screws. The 6 sided
socket fits the best. Once they are loose, I then use a box end wrench
to bleed them.

Now that they are damaged, I would use a vise grip to just tighten the
loose one.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
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> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> I'm not looking forward to this, but I have a Mity Vac and hopefully
> that wil make things better.

Reply to this Message

bryanska - 27 Aug 2006 19:19 GMT

UPDATE -

A few lessons about Alero bleeder screws:

1) They are impossible to find. Advance Auto, Checkers, Bumper to
Bumper, and a local shop didn't have them. Napa came close, but not
quite. I bought 2 there but when I got them home they were too short.

2) There is more "hex" to grip if you remove the rubber boot at the
base of the screw. It pulls right off and you have an additional 1/16"
to play with.

In the end, I used the original screw with the extra hex I found. I put
some silicone lube on the threads, and good a good seal and a good
bleed.

Pedal feels great, road test %100.

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