Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / September 2006
dead battery
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imthemanbehindthedrums@hotmail.com - 04 Sep 2006 17:53 GMT this is dumb but...
I left my lights on overnight now my car won't start. Dead battery I know. This battery is less then a year old and I am told that if i leave it alone for a few hours it might come back to life. Is that possible? I never heard of that.
Also, once I get a boost will i likely need to buy a new battery or will the battery recharge itself while i drive?
thanks.
Don Bruder - 04 Sep 2006 18:05 GMT > this is dumb but... > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > thanks. Your *BEST* move at this point it to put a proper battery charger on it *BEFORE* trying to drive. Depending on your alternator's capabilities, a low/dead battery can put excess strain on the alternator, causing it to fail as it tries to supply far more juice than it was designed for in an effort to charge the dead battery.
If you let it sit for a while, it *MIGHT* "come back" enough to get a start, but as mentioned above, the stress on the alternator is going to be heavy, perhaps fatally heavy, until the battery is properly "topped off". Having said that, yes, if the alternator survives, it will recharge as you drive. I would advise against this, if it can be avoided. (And no, this isn't "friend of a friend" - I've personally had alternators puke from exactly this scenario)
Drawing it down low enough for you to be asking the question also shortens the overall life of the battery in most cases. (Exceptions being deep-cycle type batteries, which are built a bit differently than "not deep-cycle" ones, and stand up to deep discharge better)
So once again, your best bet is to put it on a proper charger and top it up completely, then do your driving.
 Signature Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist, or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow" somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info
imthemanbehindthedrums@hotmail.com - 04 Sep 2006 18:10 GMT I just worry about charging it because i'm clueless with cars. How long would a charge take? I read that it isnt safe with electrical ignition cars (or something like that), anyone know if an old Plymouth Labaron from 86 has an electrical ignition system?
If the alternator dies the car would just stop going i guess? is an alternator more expensive then a battery charger?
thanks a million.
> > this is dumb but... > > [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my > ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info Don Bruder - 04 Sep 2006 18:24 GMT > I just worry about charging it because i'm clueless with cars. How > long would a charge take? I read that it isnt safe with electrical > ignition cars (or something like that), anyone know if an old Plymouth > Labaron from 86 has an electrical ignition system? Done properly, charging the battery is no more hazardous to the ignition than driving the car. If you have any doubts (and don't care about having to reset your radio presets, clock, etc) pull the *BLACK* cable off the battery post before hooking up the charger. How long it takes depends on the charger and exactly how flat the battery is when you start the charging process - Some can give you a fully topped up battery in half an hour. Others are "overnight" units. Still others fall somewhere in between.
> If the alternator dies the car would just stop going i guess? No, the battery stops charging, and you're right back where you were when you woke up and found it dead this morning. If the battery is low enough *AND* the alternator craps out, then yes, the engine will stop.
> is an > alternator more expensive then a battery charger? Just slightly...
Cheap but functional battery charger: $20 - possibly less.
Replace an alternator: $60-$120, or more, depending on source, brand, reman vs. new, etc, for the part. Guess-timate another $60-ish and an hour or so for a shop to put it in for you. If you've got any decent wrenching skills (sounds like not since you claim to be clueless) you could save the install charge by doing it yourself - It's not that hard, really - usually two bolts, a nut, and a plug-in connector. Sometimes just the two bolts and the plug-in connector.
> thanks a million. > [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] > > ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more > > info
 Signature Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist, or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow" somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info
imthemanbehindthedrums@hotmail.com - 04 Sep 2006 18:28 GMT Here's the best part, its labour day so I can't buy a charger and tomorrow the car has to be moved or I get a ticket. This is perfect. After 1 hour after turning the lights off the electric locks still don't work. That seems like a bad sign for it starting to work on its own, what do you think?
Don Bruder - 04 Sep 2006 18:37 GMT > Here's the best part, its labour day so I can't buy a charger Ain't that always the way? :-P
If you've got a freind who can give you a jump-start, and has some time on his hands, have him hook up as for a jump, then just leave the vehicles sitting there (with his running, preferably slightly "wound up" (about 1800-2500 RPM) ) for an hour or so. That should get enough of a charge into your battery to take most of the worry out of "just drive it until it recharges". Not *ALL*, but *MOST*.
> tomorrow the car has to be moved or I get a ticket. This is perfect. > After 1 hour after turning the lights off the electric locks still > don't work. That seems like a bad sign for it starting to work on its > own, what do you think? *VERY* bad, I'd say. Sounds like you don't have a battery anymore - it's so flat you've actually got a pancake...
Look into getting somebody to jump you, or pull the battery and hoof it down to the local Kragen's, Autozone, NAPA, etc. and ask 'em to put it on the tester. (Assuming there's one open somewhere nearby)
 Signature Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist, or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow" somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info
imthemanbehindthedrums@hotmail.com - 04 Sep 2006 21:02 GMT > If you've got a freind who can give you a jump-start, and has some time > on his hands, have him hook up as for a jump, then just leave the > vehicles sitting there (with his running, preferably slightly "wound up" > (about 1800-2500 RPM) ) for an hour or so. That should get enough of a > charge into your battery to take most of the worry out of "just drive it > until it recharges". Not *ALL*, but *MOST*. Ok... so if I try this I need to have both cars running or just his car?
Don Bruder - 04 Sep 2006 21:46 GMT > > If you've got a freind who can give you a jump-start, and has some time > > on his hands, have him hook up as for a jump, then just leave the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Ok... so if I try this I need to have both cars running or just his car? OK, that does it. You've *GOT* to be trolling, right?
On the rapidly slimming chance that you're on the level... THINK ABOUT IT! If you can start your car so as to have both of them running to put a charge on your battery, why do you want a jump in the first place??? HELLOOOOO!!!!!
If you're actually not trolling, *PLEASE* ask the next salesman you encounter which aisle stocks common sense. The last two posts I've seen from you indicate a severe shortage of it in your thinking patterns.
 Signature Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist, or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow" somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info
imthemanbehindthedrums@hotmail.com - 04 Sep 2006 22:01 GMT Don, once we connect the 2 cars I'll be able to start mine right? So, if you're saying that i should leave his car running for an hour to recharge my battery do I also leave mine on?
I don't see why that is a dumb question.
Steve W. - 05 Sep 2006 00:05 GMT > Don, once we connect the 2 cars I'll be able to start mine right? So, > if you're saying that i should leave his car running for an hour to > recharge my battery do I also leave mine on? > > I don't see why that is a dumb question. No what Don said was Hook the other vehicle up and let IT run for an hour or so to charge the battery in YOUR car. If you just hook up the other vehicle and attempt to start your car immediately YOUR car will not start since the booster cables will probably not carry enough power for the starter to work. With the second car running with the booster cables connected it will SLOWLY charge your battery and allow you to start the car. Once your car is running DISCONNECT THE OTHER CAR. If you don't you may damage BOTH vehicles. WHY? Due to the battery in your car being dead it will draw a LOT of current when your vehicle starts. The regulator will also ramp up the voltage some because of the battery being dead. The higher voltage feeding back through the booster cables might do damage to the other vehicle.
Personally I would just buy a NEW battery and install it. If your battery has been sitting there dead and since it still is seeing a continuous drain (computer and clock in the radio are always there)it MAY come back to full charge but hoe long it lasts is suspect since the typical starting battery is NOT designed to be drawn down that far.
 Signature Steve W. Near Cooperstown, New York
Life is not like a box of chocolates it's more like a jar of jalapenos- what you do today could burn your a.s tomorrow!
Scott Dorsey - 04 Sep 2006 19:53 GMT >Here's the best part, its labour day so I can't buy a charger and >tomorrow the car has to be moved or I get a ticket. This is perfect. >After 1 hour after turning the lights off the electric locks still >don't work. That seems like a bad sign for it starting to work on its >own, what do you think? What makes you think it would work on it's own? If the battery is dead, it isn't going to somehow take energy out of the air and charge itself. --scott
 Signature "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Don Bruder - 04 Sep 2006 20:10 GMT > >Here's the best part, its labour day so I can't buy a charger and > >tomorrow the car has to be moved or I get a ticket. This is perfect. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > it isn't going to somehow take energy out of the air and charge itself. > --scott No, it isn't, but a battery that isn't *TOTALLY* kaput can and will recover somewhat from being drained if the drain is removed. Whether that recovery is enough to be useful for anything is a whole different question, but it does occur.
 Signature Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist, or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow" somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info
BuntRVer - 04 Sep 2006 22:47 GMT Sounds like a very dead battery that may not come back at all. However you have stumbled onto a critcal subject, "how we MEN accumulat tools". The battery charger would be with you for years and could b used many more times. Even if you discover that the battery cannot b recharged, you will end up with a battery charger "and" and ne battery. Comeon get into the do it yourself game.
imthemanbehindthedrums@hotmail.com Wrote:
> Here's the best part, its labour day so I can't buy a charger and > tomorrow the car has to be moved or I get a ticket. This is perfect. > After 1 hour after turning the lights off the electric locks still > don't work. That seems like a bad sign for it starting to work on its > own, what do you think -- BuntRVer
Pop` - 05 Sep 2006 23:07 GMT > Here's the best part, its labour day so I can't buy a charger and > tomorrow the car has to be moved or I get a ticket. This is perfect. > After 1 hour after turning the lights off the electric locks still > don't work. That seems like a bad sign for it starting to work on its > own, what do you think? At this point, your best bet is going to be to replace the battery. Jump starting from another vehicle is going to be hard on THAT vehicle's electronics if your battery is dead, or worse, shorted, so you could end up with a bill for your friend's car on top of it all. In addition to that, cheapie jumper cables or old jumper cables have been known to melt the insulation if the charge rate is high enough, which, by the time you realize it, could have become a dead short from the hot lead to the car chassis somewhere.
If you replace the battery and the old one turns out to still be good, you might have an "emergency" battery to keep around and charged for the next time something lke this happens to you or to a friend. I'd much rather lend a battery than use my own vehicle to start a car with a completely dead battery, which it sounds like you might have. Depending on the age of your battery, it could either be a short ckt, meaning dangerous to any vehicle's electrical sstem, or a very heavy paperweight. Everytime a battery is discharged catastrophically its life becomes shortened, in addition to normal wear & tear. I'd call the battery a lost cause if it's more than two years old, a maybe at one year.
In other words, your safest and least expensive bet right now is a new battery. Have it precharged, toss it into the car, hook it up, start the car and go. And put a big "Dead Battery - gone for Help" on the windshield in the morning while you're out getting a new battery. Often police will give a person a break unless there's a reason to not believe the sign or it's late afternoon. I've had it work once. Didn't work in the next city though; got a ticket anyway (Chgo) that time. I ran out of gas and took too long getting back to the car - about an hour and a half<g>. Jeez!
HTH Pop`
MT-2500 - 04 Sep 2006 18:20 GMT imthemanbehindthedrums@hotmail.com Wrote:
> this is dumb but... > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > thanks. Yes sometimes a battery will come back up enought to start car. But remove and recharge the battery before driving.
A good battery should charge back up. But it is not safe to use the cars alternator to recharge a dead battery. It can overload and fry the alternator doing that. Remove the battery and have it charged and tested. And always remove neg battery cabel first and hook it up last. If it charges back up and test ok put it back in and go. Good Luck MT
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imthemanbehindthedrums@hotmail.com - 04 Sep 2006 18:49 GMT Ok, well if the battery is dead, which it appears to be, there can't be any p[oint in buying a charger or getting a boast right? Since its not gonna save the battery. Isn't my only option to tow it or to buy a battery and install it myself? Which I wouldn't feel safe doing.
Don Bruder - 04 Sep 2006 19:04 GMT > Ok, well if the battery is dead, which it appears to be, there can't be > any p[oint in buying a charger or getting a boast right? Since its not > gonna save the battery. Isn't my only option to tow it or to buy a > battery and install it myself? Which I wouldn't feel safe doing. The battery is empty *NOW*. Same as when you run out of gas, your gas tank is empty *NOW*. But unless you know there's a hole in it, you don't go out and buy a new gas tank 'cause you ran out of gas, do you? Why would you do so with a battery that's in essentially the same situation? Both can be "filled up" and return to being useful, despite the battery commonly being termed "dead".
On the other hand, if I were to punch a screwdriver through the bottom of your gas tank and let it drain, not only is it empty, but it's broken too. *THAT* would be when you go looking for a new gas tank.
There's no "screwdriver hole" in your battery - It just "ran out of gas". "Fill 'er up" and keep on driving.
 Signature Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist, or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow" somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info
imthemanbehindthedrums@hotmail.com - 04 Sep 2006 19:17 GMT Thanks Don, as I said I'm clueless with these things. SO the cheapest charger I've found is about 70 bucks. I'll buy that and hope for the best. Do I have to remove the battery from the car? Is it simple enough that the instructions will be enough for me?
You're a life saver.
do_not_spam_me@my-deja.com - 04 Sep 2006 19:37 GMT >SO the cheapest charger I've found is about 70 bucks. Sears, Wal-mart, Kmart, Autozone, Pep Boys, Checker/Kragen/Shuck's should have 10 amp automatic ones for $40-60. For any charger rated above 3A, you want automatic since it greatly reduces the likelihood of damaging the battery by overcharging it. Try www.shoplocal.com or the web sites of such stores.
> Do I have to remove the battery from the car? No. Just be sure to connect the red clamp to the positive terminal, the negative to the negative terminal, and do this before plugging in the AC power because you don't want any sparks near the battery. Also unplug the AC power before disconnecting the charger from the battery. If the charger has only a 2-wire AC cord, I strongly suggest plugging it into a wall outlet protected by a GFCI for shock protection, but if you don't have one a plug-in GFCI can be bought for about $15 (Home Depot sells them next to their extension cords). Don't try starting the car with the battery charger connected or the charger may be damaged.
Don Bruder - 04 Sep 2006 19:39 GMT > Thanks Don, as I said I'm clueless with these things. SO the cheapest > charger I've found is about 70 bucks. HOLY sh.t!!!!
For that kind of price, that charger damn-well better charge batteries, wax the car, wake me up with a bl.wj.b, immediately followed by a seven course breakfast in bed! And do it all on nothing but sunshine and a bit of water!
Or, if that wasn't clear enough: For the price you're getting set to lay out on that thing, you could buy a new battery (reasonably decent brand, even) and have enough left over for a twelve pack of beer, a pack of smokes, and something to munch. You're looking to get robbed.
A decent, functional battery charger - nothing fancy, just a "gets it done" rig - should run you $20 or less, and I *KNOW* Wal-mart is open today, even if nothing else on the planet is. Heck, the charger I've got sitting on the bench in the shop does everything - 70 amp booster, three ranges of charge in 12 volts, three more in 6 volts, and a deep-cycle discharge/recharge function. If I remember right, this particular unit cost a whopping $31 and tax - And it's pretty heavily loaded with "bells and whistles". A simple "connect the clips, plug it in, and switch it on until the little needle over there on the left is in the green zone" unit should be *FAR* less expensive.
> Do I have to remove the battery from the car? No, but if you're paranoid, pull the *BLACK* cable off the battery post before getting started. You *CAN* pull the battery out if so desired, but it isn't required. (unless you've got "no space to get to what I need to mess with" issues under the hood)
> Is it simple > enough that the instructions will be enough for me? Do read the directions, but basically: Hook the red clip to the battery post with the red cable on it and/or "+" or "POS" next to it. Hook the black clip to the post that you took the black cable off of. (Probably marked "-" or "NEG") Plug the unit in. Flip the switch to a position that that says "12 volts". Walk away for half an hour or so.
> You're a life saver. Nah, I'm a bilaterally symmetrical bag of protoplasm with delusions of life :)
 Signature Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist, or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow" somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info
imthemanbehindthedrums@hotmail.com - 04 Sep 2006 19:45 GMT im in canada, that might be why its pricier? Im not sure.
If I get a manuel charger that takes many hours can I interupt the charge or would that screw up the battery?
Don Bruder - 04 Sep 2006 20:11 GMT > im in canada, that might be why its pricier? Im not sure. > > If I get a manuel charger that takes many hours can I interupt the > charge or would that screw up the battery? When did Canada start observing labor day??
Yes, you can stop and restart a charge cycle without any harm. (although it MIGHT confuse the charger if it's one of the "smart" types)
 Signature Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist, or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow" somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info
Don Bruder - 04 Sep 2006 20:14 GMT > im in canada, that might be why its pricier? Im not sure. And a quasi-related question that came to me about 3.1 microseconds after I hit the "send" button: You wouldn't happen to have a couple of co-workers named Alex and Geddy, would you? :)
(Nah... Couldn't be... He wouldn't be driving a K-car...)
 Signature Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist, or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow" somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info
imthemanbehindthedrums@hotmail.com - 04 Sep 2006 20:40 GMT sh.t, i need a wall outlet... i thought chargers didnt need a wall outlet for some reason, so I can't even use a charger cause its parked in the street.
Don Bruder - 04 Sep 2006 21:40 GMT > sh.t, i need a wall outlet... i thought chargers didnt need a wall > outlet for some reason, so I can't even use a charger cause its parked > in the street. Undo the other cable. Now either the battery justs lifts right out, or there's a clip/clamp/strap holding it down. Unfasten the hold-down, and lift out. Carry to porch near an outlet. Place on porch. Extinguish all smoking materials, hook up as directed, plug in, turn on, etc.
(Why am I starting to feel like fodder for a sub-bridge-anean life-form?)
 Signature Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist, or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow" somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info
do_not_spam_me@my-deja.com - 04 Sep 2006 19:27 GMT > I left my lights on overnight now my car won't start. Dead battery I > know. This battery is less then a year old and I am told that if i > leave it alone for a few hours it might come back to life. Is that > possible? I never heard of that. It sometimes works, but don't expect anything.
> Also, once I get a boost will i likely need to buy a new battery or > will the battery recharge itself while i drive? It depends on whether it's a no-maintenance or low-maintenance battery. Both can have removable caps, but low-maintenance types are better at withstanding accidental deep discharges, while no-maintenance batteries may survive only 1 deep discharge. Batteries made by Delco (no removable caps), Exide (rounded corners on caps), and Eveready (45-degree bevels at corners) are no-maintenance, while almost everything from Johnson Controls (caps have 45-degree bevels at corners or are flush with the top) are low-maintenance. Even if a jump start gets you going, connect a charger to the battery, preferrably an automatic one with an ammeter on it. A 10 amp automatic charger should restore the battery in roughly 5 hours, and the current should eventually taper down to less than 1A. Leave it on for several more hours, and if the current stays that low the battery is probably all right, but if it won't go below 2-3 amps you need a replacement. If you have a voltage meter that isn't a cheap analog one (but cheap digital meters are fine), with any charger disconnected, measure the voltage with the headlights on and the engine off. A good battery will stay above 12V, while a bad one will drop to 10V.
empress2454@wowway.com - 04 Sep 2006 20:09 GMT it will never be as good as it was, but will probably work fine for a while
at least in hip-hop
Empress2454 #124457
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> this is dumb but... > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > thanks. Zteve20 - 04 Sep 2006 20:50 GMT Hmmm.... I'd think just boost it and let it run for a little while.... Isn't that what most people do??
> this is dumb but... > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > thanks. imthemanbehindthedrums@hotmail.com - 04 Sep 2006 20:52 GMT According to people on this forum that runs the risk of blowing the alternator.
> Hmmm.... I'd think just boost it and let it run for a little > while.... Isn't that what most people do?? Scott Dorsey - 04 Sep 2006 21:55 GMT >According to people on this forum that runs the risk of blowing the >alternator. Well, sure, if you do something stupid. But whatever risk may exist is a lot lower than the risk of having your car impounded. --scott
 Signature "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
stevedhoward@gmail.com - 04 Sep 2006 21:52 GMT > Hmmm.... I'd think just boost it and let it run for a little > while.... Isn't that what most people do?? I have thought the same thing myself throughout this entire thread. I have jumped probably 20 cars in my life due to leaving lights on, whatever. I can't say they have all been *dead*, but I know at least twice they were. I had a friend jump me, I let it run for a couple of minutes, disconnected from their battery, and never blew an alternator.
Regards,
Steve
imthemanbehindthedrums@hotmail.com - 04 Sep 2006 23:45 GMT it works! got a jump and its going smooth, the battery indicatore has it has over half way charged too. thanks all.
imthemanbehindthedrums@hotmail.com - 04 Sep 2006 23:49 GMT it works! got a jump and its going smooth, the battery indicatore has it has over half way charged too. thanks all.
MT-2500 - 05 Sep 2006 00:24 GMT imthemanbehindthedrums@hotmail.com Wrote:
> it works! got a jump and its going smooth, the battery indicatore has > it has over half way charged too. thanks all. Remember to go easy on using your cars alternator to charge a dead battery. You can fry the altermnator real easy. If you must charge a while and the turn car off and let it cool down a while. MT
 Signature MT-2500
http://www.automotiveforums.com
do_not_spam_me@my-deja.com - 05 Sep 2006 01:23 GMT > it works! got a jump and its going smooth, the battery indicator has > it has over half way charged too. What indicator says the battery is halfway charged? If it's the hydrometer built into the battery and shows different colors according to state of charge (often black, clear, or green), it's only a rough indicator and valid only for the particular cell in which it's floating, not for the other 5 cells. Testing all 6 cells with an external hydrometer (looks like a turkey baster with a device floating in it), is a much more reliable indicator, but you have to be careful not to drip acid (have water available to rinse it off), and the battery caps can be hard to remove.. A voltage meter will also work, but before measuring the battery you should either wait several hours after turning off the engine or run the headlights for 30 seconds. 12.2V is 50% charge, 12.6V is 75-100% charge. Because small differences in voltage readings mean large differences in state of charge, it's desirable to use a digital voltage meter for accuracy, preferrably one rated for at least 2 1/2 digits (i.e., at least 2000 count so you'll see a reading like 12.63V, not 12.6V). $3-5 Harbor Freight models are fine. The meter can also be used to test the battery under load (turn on key without starting engine, run the high beams, rear window defroster, and ventilation fan on high, verify that the voltage stays above 10V or so for at least 30 seconds) and the charging system (voltage at fast idle should be roughly 13V but less than 16V). Be careful not to let the meter leads get tangled in the fan or belts or touch any hot surfaces.
Bill Darden - 05 Sep 2006 13:59 GMT >this is dumb but... > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > >thanks. Check out Section 9 in the Car and Deep Battery FAQ on www.batteryfaq.org for more information on charging and chargers. After you recharge you battery is a good idea to have it tested for latent damage so you do not get stranded somewhere.
Kindest regards,
BiLL......
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