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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / September 2006Which oil in older car?
I have a 1988 Ford 5.0 V8. Owners manual calls for 5w30 oil. The oil change places want to use 10w 30. A Ford dealership says they use 5W 20 on every car and that it makes no difference. So far I have insisted on using the 5w30. (The engine ticks when first started when using 10W30 in winter.) Who is right? The owner's manual. >I have a 1988 Ford 5.0 V8. Owners manual calls for 5w30 oil. The oil > change places want to use 10w 30. A Ford dealership says they use 5W > 20 on every car and that it makes no difference. > So far I have insisted on using the 5w30. (The engine ticks when first > started when using 10W30 in winter.) Who is right? > I have a 1988 Ford 5.0 V8. Owners manual calls for 5w30 oil. The oil > change places want to use 10w 30. A Ford dealership says they use 5W > 20 on every car and that it makes no difference. > So far I have insisted on using the 5w30. (The engine ticks when first > started when using 10W30 in winter.) Who is right? first of all an '88 is not an "older" car. Secondly if the manual recommends 5w30 there's no reason to use anything else, unless you have an oil pressure problem. The ticking you hear with the 10W30 is telling me that the 10W30 is too thick when cold to really make your engine happy. just MHO nate  Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel > The ticking you hear with the 10W30 is telling me that the 10W30 is too > thick when cold to really make your engine happy. OR its just a Ford 302 saying "good morning!" like they all do. :-) I sure wouldn't use 5w20 EPA-pleasing monkey piss in any engine I cared about, but 5w30 vs 10w30 is a toss-up. No reason for 5w much south of Kansas, though. > > The ticking you hear with the 10W30 is telling me that the 10W30 is too > > thick when cold to really make your engine happy. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > about, but 5w30 vs 10w30 is a toss-up. No reason for 5w much south of > Kansas, though. I've become rather fond of 15w40 Delo 400 in *EVERYTHING* that needs oil... Rated for diesel service, accepted for "fleet service", and I've never had a problem with it in any of my motors. Might be a tad thick in the mornings if I were in "cold country", but since that's not an issue around here... SignatureDon Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist, or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow" somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info >>>The ticking you hear with the 10W30 is telling me that the 10W30 is too >>>thick when cold to really make your engine happy. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > the mornings if I were in "cold country", but since that's not an issue > around here... Fortunately both Delo and Rotella come in a handy 5W40 synthetic flavor. I'm currently running the dino squeezins in the Studebaker and the synthetic in the Porsche. The Stude will get synthetic after the new engine is broken in. nate Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel > >>>The ticking you hear with the 10W30 is telling me that the 10W30 is too > >>>thick when cold to really make your engine happy. [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > synthetic in the Porsche. The Stude will get synthetic after the new > engine is broken in. YEp, I've heard good things about Rotella, also, but since it's not as easily available here as Delo (and when I find it at all, it's in overpriced quarts, rather than reasonably priced gallons like the Delo) I've been, and will likely continue to, sticking with the Delo. I find it mighty handy to be able to do the "whatever it is needs oil - Grab the Delo jug off the shelf and pour" thing, without worrying about "is it the right stuff?" issues. From what I can understand of the label and the various "rated for" listings, it is indeed "the right stuff" for pretty much anything that wants a crankcase full of oil, be it a 3 horse Briggs & Stratton, the little 4-banger in my '82 Mazda 626, the Landlady's 2004 Infinity, a D8 Cat, or anything in between. SignatureDon Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist, or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow" somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info >> >>>The ticking you hear with the 10W30 is telling me that the 10W30 is >> >>>too [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > Briggs & Stratton, the little 4-banger in my '82 Mazda 626, the > Landlady's 2004 Infinity, a D8 Cat, or anything in between. Except that it is too viscous to use in many modern engines, especially some overhead cam engines from Ford and Honda, even in a temperate climate. There is a range of suitable viscosity oil for every engine and the range for a particular climate is usually printed in the handbook. Nowadays I have found that 10w/40 and 15w/40-mixed fleet oils meet 90% of my engine needs. Some engines do run on 5w/30 or 0w/40 in my fleet but they are exceptional and a bit of a nuisance as I like to keep things simple. Those who know me might like to know that I have worn my Land Rover's diesel engine out at last. It has covered around 13000 hours of hard use/short journeys over 22 years. The oil has always become pitch black within a minute of changing it and has always been changed at every 5000 miles. How much longer would it have lasted if I changed it according to oil cleanliness [every 5 miles LOL] or every six months [2500 miles] or every 3000 miles? I don't think it would have made any significant difference. At an average speed of 30mph, 13000 hours is nearly 400,000 miles of motoring, which is what my Toyota Land Cruiser will need to do to run for the same number of operating hours as the old Land Rover. No doubt I could replace crank bearings, pistons, gudgeon pins and rings and get a few more years of use out of the old girl but I think now is the time to retire gracefully as all other components and the body are also a bit tired and worn. Back to the original topic... :D Most oil change places recommend running 5w30 oil in the winter, which is better for cold morning startups. Then switch to 10w30 in the late spring to early summer months because it's less prone to break down with the heat. My two cents... Scott Signature450HP http://www.automotiveforums.com > Back to the original topic... :D > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Scott The difference between a 5w/30 and a 10w/30 is very small but if it makes you happy, great. Huw Huw Wrote: > The difference between a 5w/30 and a 10w/30 is very small but if it > makes > you happy, great. All I said is that's what they recommend... I never said that's what I do! :thumbsup: Scott Signature450HP http://www.automotiveforums.com > Huw Wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > All I said is that's what they recommend... I never said that's what I > do! :thumbsup: Who are "they" and "most"? I have not heard this and the point of a multigrade is to avoid such foolishness. Huw > Who are "they" They is them what aren't we. >> Who are "they" > > They is them what aren't we. Oh *t h e m*! Don't take a blind bit of notice what *they* say. Huw > Most oil change places recommend running 5w30 oil in the winter, > which is better for cold morning startups. I realize it isn't your personal recommendation, but I'd rather not take advice from oil change places that aren't full service garages. One quick lube wanted to put 10W-40 in my water cooled VW, which VW prohibited above about 50F. The engine needed straight 40 for summer, which wasn't available. Actually I typically used 20W-50, as VW dealers did, but even that wasn't recommended above about 78F. >I have a 1988 Ford 5.0 V8. Owners manual calls for 5w30 oil. The oil >change places want to use 10w 30. A Ford dealership says they use 5W >20 on every car and that it makes no difference. >So far I have insisted on using the 5w30. (The engine ticks when first >started when using 10W30 in winter.) Who is right? Like the owners manual, 5w30 is the right stuff especially if you have frequent cold starts and short trips with a few extended trips thrown in. Unless your engine has oil consumption or pressure problems, just keep using the 5w30 - no reason to change. The quicl lubers want to use the oil they have in bulk. Ford has just revised specs on newer cars which is the oil that dealers stock in bulk RE: less expensive. Profit margin and availability are probably reasons for recommendations by them. If you do not keep a close eye on them, they will install whatever they want even when you specify a particular product. Lugnut I own a 1986 Ford car and I use 5w30. cuhulin >I own a 1986 Ford car and I use 5w30. >cuhulin I use 0W-20 in my 2003 Ford ( Vulcan V6 U code ). I get fast winter starts. Instant gratification. Mobil 1 rocks. Lg > I have a 1988 Ford 5.0 V8. Owners manual calls for 5w30 oil. The oil > change places want to use 10w 30. A Ford dealership says they use 5W > 20 on every car and that it makes no difference. > So far I have insisted on using the 5w30. (The engine ticks when first > started when using 10W30 in winter.) Who is right? Ford Motor Company and therefore the owners manual. How can i tell if they put in the right oil or not? Most places wont let you go in shop area. http://community.webtv.net/katelyn_c/doc I can see a couple of ways you could convince them to show you whats happening on the rack. Trade rack for rack? http://community.webtv.net/katelyn_c/doc > How can i tell if they put in the right oil or not? Most places wont > let you go in shop area. > > http://community.webtv.net/katelyn_c/doc Change it yourself. It takes a half hour once you know how and have bought a pair of ramps, and you KNOW you're getting a good filter and oil. >> How can i tell if they put in the right oil or not? Most places wont >> let you go in shop area. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >Change it yourself. It takes a half hour once you know how and have >bought a pair of ramps, and you KNOW you're getting a good filter and oil. Agreed. I have seen quick oil change places screw it up so often that I wouldn't trust any of them, and my dealer wants $75 to do a fifteen minute job. If there's no chassis lube and you have a screw-on filter and not a canister there is no reason you can't do it in fifteen minutes flat in the driveway with ramps. My wife can. --scott Signature"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." http://community.webtv.net/Katelyn_c/doc nice pic katlyn, how about one with the bikini top off? you could make good money doing that at a bike show. That 'person' must be fifty by now, it has been posting that shot all over usenet for years.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > http://community.webtv.net/Katelyn_c/doc > > nice pic katlyn, how about one with the bikini top off? you could make > good money doing that at a bike show. > So far I have insisted on using the 5w30. (The engine ticks when first > started when using 10W30 in winter.) Why would you switch to a thicker-pouring oil in the winter? gord_truck YOUR ticking sound has nothing to do with oil ---- it's wear on the rocker hold downs --or rocker arm push rod seat ---or a push rod end --- check for wear--- you will need rocker cover gasket ---- and some simple little pices--- could be even a stuck lifter--- myself I would just add A 1/4 COFFEE OF NEW TRNNY FLUID BEFORE CHECKING FOR WEAR. THIS SHOULD TAKE AND FREE ANY STUCK LIFTERS. It's just old and tired Imyself only drive FORD trucks I have 3 2000 f-159 plus an 1988 plus a 1949 255 flat head Built ford tough bye for now gord > I have a 1988 Ford 5.0 V8. Owners manual calls for 5w30 oil. The oil > change places want to use 10w 30. A Ford dealership says they use 5W > 20 on every car and that it makes no difference. > So far I have insisted on using the 5w30. (The engine ticks when first > started when using 10W30 in winter.) Who is right? |
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