"« Paul »" <"« Paul »"@houston.rr.com> wrote in message
> OTOH, you could do it yourself if you had a flat area, wall, masking tape,
> darkness, and adjustment tool (usually phillips, torx screwdriver, or nut driver).
Exactly right.. You can do a rather good job of it with just those items.
(Last time
I did it, I had a cheap laser pointer which helped me mark off the wall.)
Everybody ought to try this once in his (or her) life. Helps understanding
the
process .
Lawrence Glickman - 24 Sep 2006 18:59 GMT
>"« Paul »" <"« Paul »"@houston.rr.com> wrote in message
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>the
>process .
I ran into a problem with this DIY once when I was moving to Illinois
from New York. The weight of the *stuff* in the trunk forced the low
beams higher than normal, and I was getting a lot of negative feedback
from people coming from the other direction on the highway.
It's a real problem if you don't have adjustable shocks. My Renault
R8 didn't. My *solution* was to park in a rest area with concrete
rather than asphalt, and lower the beams by sighting where on the slab
the headlights *hit.* No tape, levels, lasers needed. I just lowered
the beams out to where I thought they should be, by going back and
forth between the driver's seat and the headlamp adjustment brackets.
Right lamp goes straight out and down, or a cunair to the right so you
can see the curb/edge of shoulder, driver's side lamp goes toward
=middle= of vehicle ( that is, inward ) and out to the same range.
Range being determined by what *looked right* to me from the driver's
seat.
All of this took a maximum of 20 minutes. Of course, when I unloaded
my trunk at Illinois, I had to readjust them again, but once you do
it, it doesn't take long and is pretty easy.
Lg