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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / October 2006How Long Will Krylon Last In The Can?
I know y'all are going to shoot me for this, but I've got paint issues on my truck, and don't have the means or cash to get the whole thing repainted correctly. Last year I had reasonable success sanding the flaking paint and rust off the roof and recovering with auto primer and flat black paint. Yes, aerosol Krylon. I could have done a better job if I had better sandpaper, but not a single place for miles around had anything better that would fit the rented random-orbit sander (which wasn't really up to the task either). I knew it wasn't going to last but I did the best I could with what I had. It actually lasted much longer than I expected. Anyways..... Rust never sleeps, and it's time to do it over again. The hood is starting to flake up too, so I wanted to hit it before it actually began rusting. I've got better equipment to work with this time, but no time to do it. This part of the world is unseasonably cold at the moment (highs less than 70F) and every fecking weekend it has been raining. I've been procrastinating, I know. Should have done this six weeks ago when it was 85 out, I know. I don't have a garage. It might warm up again this year, but there are no guarantees. If I don't get to do this until spring, should I return all the paint I've purchased (and not used), or will it be ok in the can for several months? I'm pretty sure it'll last, just not 100% sure. Thanks -phaeton "phaeton" <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote in news:1159481617.244226.214860 @b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com: > If I don't get to do this until spring, should I return all the paint > I've purchased (and not used), or will it be ok in the can for several > months? I'm pretty sure it'll last, just not 100% sure. No oxygen in that can. The paint's good for probably ten years, Maybe more.  SignatureTeGGeR® > I know y'all are going to shoot me for this, SNIP > If I don't get to do this until spring, should I return all the paint > I've purchased (and not used), or will it be ok in the can for several [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > -phaeton Store it inside (don't let it freeze) and it will be just fine. > If I don't get to do this until spring, should I return all the paint > I've purchased (and not used), or will it be ok in the can for several > months? I'm pretty sure it'll last, just not 100% sure. I've had cans of krylon, rustoleum, and others, primer, enamel, plastic in my garage for several years. They still work good. They survive 120F just fine. The only time I lost any was when it got below freezing for several days a few years ago. The outsides of the cans will rust though. >I know y'all are going to shoot me for this, but I've got paint issues >on my truck, and don't have the means or cash to get the whole thing [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > >-phaeton If it was me doing the work I would return all the Krylon and go buy real auto spray paint in a can. It's not that much different in price but usually a little higher. I used to use Krylon type paints to paint my shiny black parts like the spare tire carrier and bumpers and it didn't last a year before the sun pretty much took all the shine out of it. Since I switched to real auto spray paint (the stuff Pep boys and AUtozone type places sell) it lasts for several years. I've used it to do real repaints of small areas in colors too and it's held up well. > If it was me doing the work I would return all the Krylon and go buy > real auto spray paint in a can. It's not that much different in price [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > used it to do real repaints of small areas in colors too and it's held > up well. I looked at the auto stores and they had pretty much the same stuff. Some of it just some 'off brand' spray paint. FWIW I'm painting with flat black and wetsanding to a minor sheen. I'm not too concerned with shininess. If I had the facility and/or cash I'd take the whole thing down to bare metal and blast it with some DP-90 primer sealer, but you know... ;) -phaeton Ashton Crusher <Hello@nowhere.net> wrote in article <3dlph2hfao2hbqtr02r9jvh2ui74sqjboo@4ax.com>... > Since I switched to real auto spray paint (the stuff Pep > boys and AUtozone type places sell) it lasts for several years. I've > used it to do real repaints of small areas in colors too and it's held > up well. "Real" automotive paint comes in pint, quart and gallon cans from places such as NAPA and Carquest with names like Martin Senour, Dupont, etc. That crap in the cans is over-thinned and too watery to offer good coverage. If that is all you have ever used, it is understandable that you believe it is good, because it usually IS better than the cheaper rattle can products...... ......but once you've sprayed correctly-thinned REAL spray paint from a conventional syphon gun or HVLP spray gun, you'll never go back to the rattle cans. > ......but once you've sprayed correctly-thinned REAL spray paint from a > conventional syphon gun or HVLP spray gun, you'll never go back to the > rattle cans. Yup. >Ashton Crusher <Hello@nowhere.net> wrote in article ><3dlph2hfao2hbqtr02r9jvh2ui74sqjboo@4ax.com>... [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] >conventional syphon gun or HVLP spray gun, you'll never go back to the >rattle cans. That was not the OPs issue with his paint cans. I've gotten several well done small paint repairs with those auto spray can paints and a couple of not as great looking large area repairs done with them. The main problem isn't that they are over thinned or watery, it's that they dry too fast to do a large area properly. Small areas often come out very well with them. A second problem of course is that there is no way to color match to faded paint. You make the common mistake of assuming that if you can't do something no one else can. Ashton Crusher <Hello@nowhere.net> wrote in article <6vp3i2plja03h9vnk3dr52584qetf991po@4ax.com>... > >Ashton Crusher <Hello@nowhere.net> wrote in article > ><3dlph2hfao2hbqtr02r9jvh2ui74sqjboo@4ax.com>... [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > >conventional syphon gun or HVLP spray gun, you'll never go back to the > >rattle cans. > That was not the OPs issue with his paint cans. The issue I was addressing was YOU calling the rattle can stuff "real" automotive paint.....(see above). It had nothing to do with the OP question. It was a simple response to what has turned out to be a simpleton statement by you. > I've gotten several > well done small paint repairs with those auto spray can paints and a > couple of not as great looking large area repairs done with them. The > main problem isn't that they are over thinned or watery, it's that > they dry too fast to do a large area properly. They dry out too fast because they are thinned out too much.....and that IS one of the problems I was addressing. > Small areas often come > out very well with them. A second problem of course is that there is > no way to color match to faded paint. The WAY you spray can lighten and/or darken the finished surface a bit, so if you REALLY knew what you were doing, you would klnow that. > You make the common mistake of assuming that if you can't do > something no one else can. And YOU make the common mistake of assuming that everyone wants to cobble and patch something together using shade-tree technology - as you do......then cover up all the sins and errors with several coats of rattle can crap.......not even "adjusting" the color a bit with spray techniques...... ............rather than owning and using the correct tools, professional materials, and applying professionally accepted methods and standards. I have used more than a couple of rattle cans in 40+ years of building race car and street rod chassis, but for any job requiring ANY level of professional appearance, I use a spray gun and REAL automotive paint. Come back and talk to me when you can weld a repair panel in, finish it off, cover it with DP-90 epoxy primer, paint it to "as new" condition, and never have opened a can of body filler or melted an ounce of lead. Then, your thoughts on metalworking and finishing will be taken seriously. Until that time, you're just a Bondo Buggy, Rattle canner.... >Ashton Crusher <Hello@nowhere.net> wrote in article ><6vp3i2plja03h9vnk3dr52584qetf991po@4ax.com>... [quoted text clipped - 71 lines] > >Until that time, you're just a Bondo Buggy, Rattle canner.... Who can get a decent paint repair with auto paint in a spray can, a skill that eludes you with your 40 years of experience. But don't take my word for it, you said so yourself. As I said, you make the common mistake of assuming that because you can't do something no one else can. Ashton Crusher <Hello@nowhere.net> wrote in article <r369i21vrajhpspntc9090v9129bgvc6m8@4ax.com>... > Who can get a decent paint repair with auto paint in a spray can, a > skill that eludes you with your 40 years of experience. But don't > take my word for it, you said so yourself. As I said, you make the > common mistake of assuming that because you can't do something no one > else can. I'm going to assume you meant to write, "Who CAN'T get a decent repair......" Well, in your own words, YOU, for one, cannot!..... Ashton Crusher <Hello@nowhere.net> wrote in article <6vp3i2plja03h9vnk3dr52584qetf991po@4ax.com>... > .....I've gotten several > well done small paint repairs with those auto spray can paints > *****and a > couple of not as great looking large area repairs done with them. The > main problem isn't that they are over thinned or watery, it's that > they dry too fast to do a large area properly.***** >Small areas often come > out very well with them. > ***** A second problem of course is that there is > no way to color match to faded paint.***** > > You make the common mistake of assuming that if you can't do > something no one else can. Having listed two - more like three - problems above, it is apparent that YOU cannot always get a quality job out of a spray can, either.....which should give you cause you to drop the know-it-all, I-can-paint-with-a-rattlecan-and-you-can't, attitude just a bit..... I've painted whole quarter panels with a rattlecan, but - unlike you - I KNOW that isn't the right way to do it.....even though I DO know how to deal with one of your alleged rattlecan problems - paint drying too fast - in addition to knowing spray techniques that help in lightening/darkening the paint to match. That's the difference between you and me. Training means knowing the rules..... Experience means knowing the exceptions.... >Ashton Crusher <Hello@nowhere.net> wrote in article ><r369i21vrajhpspntc9090v9129bgvc6m8@4ax.com>... [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >I'm going to assume you meant to write, "Who CAN'T get a decent >repair......" Then as usual, you'd be wrong. Ashton Crusher <Hello@nowhere.net> wrote in article <p68bi2hd1ekj740ra6emni7dj6mhi6la12@4ax.com>... > >Ashton Crusher <Hello@nowhere.net> wrote in article > ><r369i21vrajhpspntc9090v9129bgvc6m8@4ax.com>... [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Then as usual, you'd be wrong. Well, in that case, I guess I CAN get a decent job out of a rattlecan - as I explained, but YOU snipped. You are, without a doubt, the most contradictory poster I have ever met......as contradictory as most trolls. First you suggest that I cannot do as good a job with a rattlecan as you - not that rattlecan skills are uppermost on my resume - then you admit that doing a decent job with a rattlecan is difficult to the point of....Who CAN do a decent job?. I guess I should have kept you filed under "troll"......wher I first keyholed you. >Ashton Crusher <Hello@nowhere.net> wrote in article ><p68bi2hd1ekj740ra6emni7dj6mhi6la12@4ax.com>... [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] >I guess I should have kept you filed under "troll"......wher I first >keyholed you. Yeah, you do that if it makes you warm and fuzzy. phaeton <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote in article <1159481617.244226.214860@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>... > If I don't get to do this until spring, should I return all the paint > I've purchased (and not used), or will it be ok in the can for several > months? I'm pretty sure it'll last, just not 100% sure. I believe the key to storing conventional rattlecan paint for any length of time is to store the cans upside down. When I say "conventional" rattlecan, I mean the stuff with the tube going to the bottom of the can that is meant to spray with the nozzle at the top of the can - NOT the stuff that is meant to spray upside down such as pavement marking paint, etc. If you store them rightside up, the solids settle in the bottom of the can - surrounding the pickup tube - and within a few quick sprays, the pickup tube carries enough solids up to clog the nozzle.....no matter how much you shake the can before starting, because some solids have already made their way up the tube due to capillary action. Go through enough nozzle cleanings, and you MIGHT be alright. As do many other shops, I keep a case of gloss black, generic, rattlecan stuff around to throw a quick coat on a component that I have just welded, rebuilt, or whatever. Some of the stuff often gets to sit a year or more in my cabinet......but, I make sure I store them upside down. Of course, you should then shake them upside down so the rattleball is in the solids stirring them up.....but you should have less problems with older cans plugging the nozzle after a few quick squirts if they have been stored upside down. > phaeton <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote in article > <1159481617.244226.214860@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>... [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > I believe the key to storing conventional rattlecan paint for any length of > time is to store the cans upside down..... Good point. I wasn't sure how much the solids would separate. FWIW I was actually looking to see if they made primer and flat black in cans meant to spray upside down (It's a tad easier hitting a flat surface like a rooftop without the whole can underneath you- i might get woozy from the fumes and bump the bottom rim of the can into my workpiece). I my main concern was actually the breakdown of chemicals. I'm not a chemist, but I'm sure they don't last forever. > Go through enough nozzle cleanings, and you MIGHT be alright. > As do many other shops, I keep a case of gloss black, generic, rattlecan > stuff around to throw a quick coat on a component that I have just welded, > rebuilt, or whatever. It's also good for finding low and high spots when doing body work ;-) Fwiw I am completely aware of the total Shade Tree Engineering aspect of what I'm doing, and I don't expect the results to be show quality and beautiful. I just want to slow down the deterioration as much as possible. Things would be tons different if I could pull the windshield, had a bead blaster and a HVLP gun to shoot DP-90 with. Hell, if I had that, I'd repaint the whole truck in it. ;-) Unfortunately, i don't have these things (not even a garage, if you believe that) so I'll make do with what I can for now. Thanks for the tips! You've always been helpful, Mr. Asterisk. You wouldn't happen to also know if any of these liquid 'rust inhibitor/stopper' type products are worth a damn, would you? There's some stuff under the upper windshield moulding that I can't get to with the sander, and although I can peel the rubber back a little ways, I don't know if I can remove it without destroying it. Thanks again. -phaeton Krylon will last indefinitely in the can. After some time you'll have trouble getting it out. ;-) SignaturePaul Hovnanian mailto:Paul@Hovnanian.com ------------------------------------------------------------------ The only tools one needs in life: WD-40 to make things go and duct tape to make them stop. > Krylon will last indefinitely in the can. After some time you'll have > trouble getting it out. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > The only tools one needs in life: > WD-40 to make things go and duct tape to make them stop. Excellent! Actually, I was able to complete my Shade Tree Engineering paint repair job. I spent a lot of extra time on it and paid lots of attention to details, etc. Hopefully I'll get a full year out of it, this time. In the meantime, I think I'm going to call around some body shops and see what they'd ask to take my hood off, sandblast it, DP-90 it, and put it back on. Don't even bother with any straightening, wetsanding, etc. Runs, orangepeel and fisheyes are ok, as long as the primer stays on there. It can't hurt, doubt it will break the bank, and they can do a helluva better job than me. Maybe I can reclaim that kbb resale value of $1200. w00t! -phaeton phaeton <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote in article <1160425750.063718.16830@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>... > Excellent! > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > etc. Runs, orangepeel and fisheyes are ok, as long as the primer stays > on there. Just a precaution......maybe it doesn't matter to you.......but, Talk to them about "media blasting" - not necessarily sand blasting. Oftentimes, "sand" blasting a large panel - such as a hood, quarter panel, etc. will create enough stress and heat to actually warp the panel. Many of the media blasters that specialize in automotive work use walnut shells, baking soda, plastic beads, glass beads, and a number of other materials as the blasting media to avoid such problems. > Just a precaution......maybe it doesn't matter to you.......but, Right... I meant 'media' but wrote 'sand'. Typically one uses glass beads for sheet metal and walnut shells for cast iron, etc. (IIRC). But yeah, thanks for pointing that out, so I can remember to say "media" when I talk to them. -phaeton |
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