How to Tow RWD MT Car with Car Dolly ?

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loadhawg - 04 Oct 2006 14:27 GMT

Assuming a 350 mi 1-way trip...

I've always heard that the way to tow a car (with a car dolly) was to
disconnect the driveshaft at the rear axle. Given a solid rear axle and
a manual transmission (5speed) in a traditional front engine, RWD
arrangement...

Should the driveshaft be disconnected? Or is it OK to put the manual
transmission in Neutral and go?

Thanks

PS: Do you leave the key in to unlock the steering or leave it locked
or does this depend upon the dolly?

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John S. - 04 Oct 2006 14:44 GMT

> Assuming a 350 mi 1-way trip...
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Should the driveshaft be disconnected? Or is it OK to put the manual
> transmission in Neutral and go?

Chances are you will be ok. If you have the time I would disconnect
it.

> Thanks
>
> PS: Do you leave the key in to unlock the steering or leave it locked
> or does this depend upon the dolly?

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Don Bruder - 04 Oct 2006 15:21 GMT

> Assuming a 350 mi 1-way trip...
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> PS: Do you leave the key in to unlock the steering or leave it locked
> or does this depend upon the dolly?

Drop the driveline at the rear end, and wire it securely into a safe
position. (Ideally, you'll have a plug for the tail end of the tranny,
and remove the driveline completely)

Dropping the driveline is the only way to be *SURE* you aren't going to
kill the tranny without knowing the exact details of the innards of your
particular tranny - Some will move lube around well enough to avoid dry
bearings and such when driven by the driveline while in neutral, others
will not. Which is yours? You tell me! Besides - Unless you've got some
weirdo vehicle, dropping or replacing the driveline isn't much more than
a 20 minute job from start to finish unless you're a completely
fumble-fingered "klutz-without-a-klue".

As for the locked/unlocked thing, that tends to be irrelevant when
dollying, since the front end is off the ground and the dolly does all
the "steering".

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or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow"
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loadhawg - 04 Oct 2006 18:37 GMT

10 minutes and 4 bolts to undo the rear flange and it's close enough to
wire up to the exhaust securely. Problem is for the individual I'm
helping - that party will have to deal with reattaching and has no
mechanical abilities. Thus why I ask 'how' necessary and what is the
damage we are trying to avoid.

I've always been curious just what kind of 'damage' is being avoided
too? In this case it's a Mazda 5 speed fully sync maybe 20ish years
old. The lube would be slightly towards the rear as the car sets at
slight angle in the dolly obviously. It's topped up to the fill line of
course. That's about all I can tell you. Oh yeah and the axle is a
limited slip though that shouldn't matter.

I agree 100% on trailers vs dollies - I've used trailers and only used
a dolly once before (disconnected and wired the driveshaft back then
too which I did A) because it wasn't a big deal for me to do and B)
I've always heard you were 'supposed' to but didn't know why for sure).

<SNIP>

> Dropping the driveline is the only way to be *SURE* you aren't going to
> kill the tranny without knowing the exact details of the innards of your
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> a 20 minute job from start to finish unless you're a completely
> fumble-fingered "klutz-without-a-klue".

Reply to this Message

pauls@lexingtonmfg.com - 04 Oct 2006 18:45 GMT

Years ago automatic tranny's had a rear pump that would pressurize the
system so that the moving parts being back driven would be lubricated.
This was discontinued in new auto's years ago. Automatic RWD's must
therefore have the driveshaft disconnected to towing.

Manuals in my understanding do not have this problem as they are not a
hydraulic pump, rather a gearbox, so you are correct, the only issue is
that you are on a 350 mile "hill climb". I would honestly just make
sure the transmission oil is full and go for it.

Paul

> 10 minutes and 4 bolts to undo the rear flange and it's close enough to
> wire up to the exhaust securely. Problem is for the individual I'm
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> > a 20 minute job from start to finish unless you're a completely
> > fumble-fingered "klutz-without-a-klue".

Reply to this Message

Steve - 04 Oct 2006 19:00 GMT

> I've always been curious just what kind of 'damage' is being avoided
> too?

The main problem was with automatics. After about 1965 (that was the
last year for Chrysler, the others were +/- a few years), they stopped
putting driveshaft side hydraulic pumps on automatics, so the fluid only
circulates when the engine is running. When you tow without
disconnecting the driveshaft, at least one of the clutch packs has half
its elements (those connected to the output shaft) rotating, while the
other half are still. Multi-plate clutches always have a little residual
drag even when "released", so the clutch pack will gradually get hotter
and hotter since no fluid is being pumped through it to cool it down.
Tow fast enough or far enough, and the clutch pack would be roasted.

Older manual trannies were all "splash" lubricated and had no problem
being towed in neutral, because the output shaft would still be
splashing lube on any moving parts. It wouldn't surprise me at all if a
number of more modern manual trannies now have pumps to keep various
bearings and synchros lubricated under all conditions, so I don't think
the old universal "if its a manual, you can just tow it" philosophy is
safe on new transmissions.

>In this case it's a Mazda 5 speed fully sync maybe 20ish years
> old.

I would *guess* that it would be fine. But I don't *know* that it would
be fine....

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thetoolman - 04 Oct 2006 15:46 GMT

> Assuming a 350 mi 1-way trip...
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> PS: Do you leave the key in to unlock the steering or leave it locked
> or does this depend upon the dolly?

A few years back I was moving back home to southern Calif. from Tucson
Az, (480mi) and was going to tow my fully restored 81' Collola w/auto
trans, so I knew I was going to have to disconnect the driveshaft which
is a pain in a.s because it's two piece! Anyway I decided to rent a
Ryder truck and the guy there told me that the car trailer was cheaper
to rent than the dolly ($140 vs $185) go figure!!!? Well it was a no
brainer and I took the trailer and I was glad I did! Saved some time
for me too. I got to the rental near my home and unloaded the car off
the trailer at the supermarket parking lot across the steet and drove
to the rental yard and dropped off the trailer so I could unload the
truck, came back to return the truck, walked across the steet got in
the car and drove away. I was glad I didn't have to work on the car
after I got there because I was beat.
Anyway ,you should be alright towing a manual trans car on a dolly
without removing the shaft....If the dolly is the type that doesn't
have steerable wheels I would unlock the steering in the car.

HTH, Rick

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John S. - 04 Oct 2006 15:55 GMT

> > Assuming a 350 mi 1-way trip...
> >
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
>
> HTH, Rick

Very useful practical points. Now that I think about it, we towed my
son's car cross country on a car trailer, and that thing tracked so
well we hardly knew it was there.

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pauls@lexingtonmfg.com - 04 Oct 2006 18:34 GMT

Manuals can be towed without dropping the driveshaft. I would lock the
wheels in place and remove the key.

Good Luck!

Paul

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sdlomi2 - 04 Oct 2006 19:56 GMT

Hey loadhawg, if you wish to be sure to not melt the innards together,
you NEED to remove the shaft. I witnessed a mechanic-friend of mine tow his
car less than 35 miles and the 4-speed Muncie trans--a very stout one used
by racers--overheated and ruined several components, & IIRC, it even got the
'cluster-gear'. So, since it seems none of knows which ones do and which
ones don't, you'd best REMOVE that driveshaft. Good luck to you, & I hope I
didn't make anybody mad; but we all know what we know, and I happen to know
this. s

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sonofadocker - 04 Oct 2006 20:26 GMT

I have towed the vehicle with the engine running and the tranny in
neutral.
I never did damage that i was aware of.

sonofadocker

> Assuming a 350 mi 1-way trip...
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> PS: Do you leave the key in to unlock the steering or leave it locked
> or does this depend upon the dolly?

Reply to this Message

Steve W. - 04 Oct 2006 23:27 GMT

> Assuming a 350 mi 1-way trip...
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> PS: Do you leave the key in to unlock the steering or leave it locked
> or does this depend upon the dolly?

Mark the flange location, Pull the rear of the shaft and wire it out of
the way.

Or don't and risk transmission damage to the bearings from the lack of
proper lubrication of the rear bearings.

Now for a different question? Why not just drive it the 350 miles?

Signature

Steve W.

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