 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / October 2006bypassing rear brakes
A rear brake line blew on my 91 Toyota Corolla the other day due to corosion, and rather than replace it, which would be tricky and expensive due to the amount of corrosion and access to parts, I was thinking of just crimping the rear brake hoses, making the rear brakes inoperative but stoppping the leak. I only plan on keeping this car for a year at most, and can't justify the expense of refitting it with new lines etc. would doing this cause any major problems with the front brakes? would they be extremely grabby? Thanks for any help' Tyson > would doing this cause any major problems with the front brakes? yeah, they'll be real screwed up after you slide into the first unexpected heavy, immobile, inelastic object. Matthew Big T <tysontomaszewicz@yahoo.ca> wrote in article <1161033347.307771.242120@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>... > A rear brake line blew on my 91 Toyota Corolla the other day due to > corosion, and rather than replace it, which would be tricky and [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Tyson You ARE joking.....RIGHT??? The cost of fixing the car properly pales in comparison to the potential cost of driving a car with inadequate brakes........ Is this some sort of troll???? Yeah get it inspected in NYS and have it impounded! > Big T <tysontomaszewicz@yahoo.ca> wrote in article > <1161033347.307771.242120@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>... [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Is this some sort of troll???? >A rear brake line blew on my 91 Toyota Corolla the other day due to >corosion, and rather than replace it, which would be tricky and [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >lines etc. would doing this cause any major problems with the front >brakes? would they be extremely grabby? >Thanks for any help' It won't cause any problem that getting twenty years in jail and dying there won't cure. Don't forget to get the big sign saying 'f.ck YOU! NO BRAKES AND I DON'T CARE!" Maybe you'll make it a few extra months before you get somebody killed. I think the general consensus is, it's extremely unsafe and unadvisable. If the lines are in that bad of shape, the systems literally falling apart. Any professional (mechanic, cop, etc.) wouldn't allow you to drive the vehicle with brakes being tampered/disabled and if someone else had a wreck with the car, you'd at least have a major lawsuit if not criminal charges. I really appreciate your desire just to "get by for a while". Believe me, I've had my share of gasoline fires involving propane torches or Styrofoam of some sort:) But you won't care if it goes if it stop. Jim >A rear brake line blew on my 91 Toyota Corolla the other day due to > corosion, and rather than replace it, which would be tricky and [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Tyson "Big T" <tysontomaszewicz@yahoo.ca> wrote in news:1161033347.307771.242120 @i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com: > A rear brake line blew on my 91 Toyota Corolla the other day due to > corosion, and rather than replace it, which would be tricky and [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > lines etc. would doing this cause any major problems with the front > brakes? would they be extremely grabby? Nobody's said it up to now, but there is NO NEED to replace the entire line! Patch-fixes are usual and commonplace for this sort of problem. You cut out the rusted patch with a pipe cutter, make new flares and splice in a new section of generic line, which may be easily bent up by hand to near the original contours. Bulk brake line is dirt cheap, so are flare nuts. A garage will probably charge you an hour's labor to replace the rusted patch. Even though you can rent flare tools, I'd advise not doing it yourself if you've never done it before. DO NOT disable the rear brakes.  SignatureTeGGeR® > Nobody's said it up to now, but there is NO NEED to replace the entire > line! Except that it's _cheaper_ to do it by replacement. Brake pipe is cheap, labour is expensive. Replace the pipe and it's one pipe, splice it and it's one new pipe and a couple of in-situ flares to do too. If it's rusted out then it'll be steel pipe too, not a copper alloy, so it's a harder flare to do by hand, especially without even a vice to hold it in. Now personally I have better things to do than to lie on my back, trying to screw down a couple of new nipples onto some old junkyard dog of a beaten up Corolla. I don't mind making up flares, but I can do them a lot faster and better on the bench in a vice. I'd suggest that the OP just goes out and gets his damn fool self killed and do us all a favour, except that he's likely to hurt bystanders 8-( > > Nobody's said it up to now, but there is NO NEED to replace the entire > > line! [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > killed and do us all a favour, except that he's likely to hurt > bystanders 8-( I see you're posting from the YooKay so I understand where you're coming from, but there *are* no "copper alloy" brake lines in the YooEss. I have seen them advertised in various UK Volkswagen enthusiast rags but they are not approved for use over here. You can only use steel or stainless steel, and the latter is a cast-iron bitch to cut, bend and flare properly. So much so that I actually paid the premium to have some pre-bent lines sent to me when I swapped rear axles in my '55 Stude (but those stainless brake lines look sooo sexy under there.) nate (been there, flared that) In article <1161091822.050164.144990@k70g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, > > > Nobody's said it up to now, but there is NO NEED to replace the entire > > > line! [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > (been there, flared that) http://www.fedhillusa.com/index.html > I see you're posting from the YooKay so I understand where you're > coming from, but there *are* no "copper alloy" brake lines in the > YooEss. They're available in the US, although they're not common. It's a 10% nickel bronze, not pure copper. The US problem is with the commonly available pure copper aircon pipe getting using as brake pipe, then having fatigue problems owing to vibration. Here in the UK it's easy to get the brakepipe alloy, hard to find anything for aircon. Another UK patent "alloy" for brake pipes is KuNiFer. This is a concentric laminate though, not an alloy. >> I see you're posting from the YooKay so I understand where you're >> coming from, but there *are* no "copper alloy" brake lines in the [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Another UK patent "alloy" for brake pipes is KuNiFer. This is a > concentric laminate though, not an alloy. The catch in the US is that many types of lines are not DOT legal for brake use. Copper is one of them. Same thing with compression fittings on brake lines. Don't see US DOT approval on the web site either. That makes them a lot like many aftermarket parts, designated OFF ROAD only parts. Many braided lines fall in that area as well. Even though they provide superior braking. SignatureSteve W. Near Cooperstown, New York >>> I see you're posting from the YooKay so I understand where you're >>> coming from, but there *are* no "copper alloy" brake lines in the [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > parts. Many braided lines fall in that area as well. Even though they > provide superior braking. I thought that one of the FMVSS' specified material for brake lines - I would assume 105, but I no longer have access to the full text of the FMVSSs and can't seem to find it on the web. IF my memory is correct, I wouldn't want to take on the liability of installing a different, albeit equal or superior, product on a road going vehicle - it would be just chumming for lawyers. nate Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel > >> I see you're posting from the YooKay so I understand where you're > >> coming from, but there *are* no "copper alloy" brake lines in the > >> YooEss. > > > > They're available in the US, although they're not common. It's a 10% > > nickel bronze, not pure copper. > The catch in the US is that many types of lines are not DOT legal for > brake use. Copper is one of them. What part of "alloy" are you having the problem in understanding? > Same thing with compression fittings on brake lines. What do you think we use? Just because it's an axial compression fitting with an integral flare rather than the radial wedge-ring type we use on water plumbing doesn't mean that it isn't a metal-to-metal compression fitting. Besides which, the SAE design of flare is crap and barely tolerated in Europe. DIN flares are much better, especially if there's any end tension on the pipe. >>>> I see you're posting from the YooKay so I understand where you're >>>> coming from, but there *are* no "copper alloy" brake lines in the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > What part of "alloy" are you having the problem in understanding? Doesn't matter. It is a COPPER ALLOY. DOT says NO. Install it on a vehicle and wait for the lawyers to come calling if anything EVER happens. Just the way it is. >> Same thing with compression fittings on brake lines. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Europe. DIN flares are much better, especially if there's any end > tension on the pipe. SAE flares and bubble flares are LEGAL. Compression ring style fittings are not. SignatureSteve W. >>>>I see you're posting from the YooKay so I understand where you're >>>>coming from, but there *are* no "copper alloy" brake lines in the [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > Europe. DIN flares are much better, especially if there's any end > tension on the pipe. What's a "DIN" flare? Is that what I'd know as an ISO or "bubble" flare? If so I disagree; a bubble flare can only be disassembled once or twice before it needs replacement. Best of all would be AN type flares/fittings, but they've never caught on for automotive use for some reason. nate Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel > What's a "DIN" flare? Is that what I'd know as an ISO or "bubble" > flare? If so I disagree; a bubble flare can only be disassembled once [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > nate DIN are sort of a half ISO bubble. The face looks like a bubble flare but the back has a flat surface. If you start forming a standard double flare and stop after the first step on a manual tool you get the DIN style flare. You are VERY correct. They are at most a two time use flare. Even then they are a pain to seal the second time. Plus the stress riser at that flat area at the base of the flare makes it easy for vibration to break them. Looking online I found a few references to the "Kunifer" or "90-10 Copper-Nickel" being marginal for vehicle use due to work hardening from vibration. The only thing I see on the web sites about it are that it doesn't corrode like steel. That is it's claim to fame. http://www.copper.org/applications/automotive/hydraulic_brake_tube.html http://www.copper.org/applications/automotive/brake.html http://www.dimebank.com/BrakePlumbing.html SignatureSteve W. > A rear brake line blew on my 91 Toyota Corolla the other day due to > corosion, and rather than replace it, which would be tricky and [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Tyson Can this not be a troll? >> A rear brake line blew on my 91 Toyota Corolla the other day due to >> corosion, and rather than replace it, which would be tricky and [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > >Can this not be a troll? There really ARE people that stupid and irresponsible out there. After all, 2-wheel brakes met all current standards in the year 1920! Don www.donsautomotive.com > >> A rear brake line blew on my 91 Toyota Corolla the other day due to > >> corosion, and rather than replace it, which would be tricky and [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > There really ARE people that stupid and irresponsible out there. > After all, 2-wheel brakes met all current standards in the year 1920! Yes, and Ford used a driveshaft brake but cars were much slower. If the rear brake lines burst because they were corroded, the fix isn't to crimp off the rear lines and hope they don't leak. The fix is to replace all lines because the fronts are probably in bad shape too. That's a guy who doesn't give a darn about his safety, other passehers and family and other drivers. > If > the rear brake lines burst because they were corroded, the fix isn't > to crimp off the rear lines and hope they don't leak. The fix is to > replace all lines because the fronts are probably in bad shape too. > That's a guy who doesn't give a darn about his safety, other passehers > and family and other drivers. The Toyota brake lines I've seen are covered in black rubber sheathing. The sheathing is interrupted where the mount brackets are, and that's where they rust. SignatureTeGGeR® >>> A rear brake line blew on my 91 Toyota Corolla the other day due to >>> corosion, and rather than replace it, which would be tricky and [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > Don > www.donsautomotive.com I know a guy who used compression fittings from Home Depot to fix a broken brake line. Stupid, but better than this. > A rear brake line blew on my 91 Toyota Corolla the other day due to > corosion, and rather than replace it, which would be tricky and [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Tyson expense? new lines are cheap at your FLAPS. just remove the old one, take it in for a pattern, and they will give you one for a couple bucks that's within a few inches in length. Or if it's a hose that blew... well those are cheap too. Basically even if you pay someone to do this repair unless there's other issues, it should still be under $100. Crimping a blown line is a "get you home" fix, not a "drive for a year" fix. nate Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel :eek: Disable rear brakes for a year?????????:banghead: :nono: :uhoh: Like Nate and Tegger state, it's not too hard to replace a line or pay someone to do it. Even if you just "patch" the bad area, better to have rear brakes than to just say no big deal if they don't work. In any case, if you decide to really disable the rear brakes, please stay away from driving around my area.:shakehead SignatureKnifeblade_03 http://www.automotiveforums.com > A rear brake line blew on my 91 Toyota Corolla the other day due to > corosion, and rather than replace it, which would be tricky and [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Tyson I don't care if you're keeping the car for 1 hour or 10 more years... for the sake of the rest of us on the road, FIX the brakes or get it the piece of junk the hell off our roads. > would they be extremely grabby? Would say it would be very stupid to do this! By the way, manipulations like this has in consequence to lose all pretension of insurance in case of an accident even in case you aren't the causer. Regards, Ralf Signaturewww.omnibusclub.de Erfinder des Abgasturboladers Dr. Alfred J. Büchi: "Die Abgase, deren noch inne-wohnende Energie bis dahin vergeudet wurde ..." If the rear brake line corroded to the point of being useless, the front line & hoses are probably just as bad. The rubber brake hoses breakdown internally and can collapse when you depress the brake pedal causing the brake to drag and or not release fully. If you do disable the rear brakes, it will probably put undo stress on the fronts brakes causing them to work harder to stop the vehicle. When the fronts fail and your on the interstate doing 80 mph try to run into one of the " low boy " semi trailer's, that's the trailer that goes goes almost down to the ground, that way if you hit it you don't go under it. Fix the brake lines or junk the vehicle and get another car. Christ, even I replaced my brake hoses on my car with over 300,000 mile, and my vehicle certainly isn't worth fixing any more, but I keep it anyway. Good Luck, harryface 05 Park Avenue 51,908 91 Bonneville 307,579 |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.