Sealer for cold mixture heater block

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Art - 25 Oct 2006 22:44 GMT

I'm replacing the carburetor on my 89 Toyota and the book I'm using
said not to remove the cold mixture heater block. Well, it came out
anyway and I cleaned it up. So, I'm wondering what kind of sealant I
should use on the upper and lower surfaces and on the gaskets. Any
recommendations? Thanks.

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Comboverfish - 27 Oct 2006 19:28 GMT

> I'm replacing the carburetor on my 89 Toyota and the book I'm using
> said not to remove the cold mixture heater block. Well, it came out
> anyway and I cleaned it up. So, I'm wondering what kind of sealant I
> should use on the upper and lower surfaces and on the gaskets. Any
> recommendations? Thanks.

First off, don't use sealer. If the gaskets are perfectly intact with
no cracks, I would reuse them. If they are unuseable, then carefully
scrape the gaskets off (a single edge razor blade will help lift them
from the heater/spacer). Buy new gaskets at the dealer if you can't
get them in an overhaul kit. You will probably need to go there in
person to point out the ones you need on the parts terminal to be on
the safe side.

Toyota MDT in MO

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larry moe 'n curly - 27 Oct 2006 21:34 GMT

> > I'm replacing the carburetor on my 89 Toyota and the book I'm using
> > said not to remove the cold mixture heater block. Well, it came out
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> person to point out the ones you need on the parts terminal to be on
> the safe side.

Is it OK to use Hylomar on those gaskets? Because that's what I did,
and I hope I don't have to remove it. :(

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Noozer - 27 Oct 2006 22:22 GMT

>> > I'm replacing the carburetor on my 89 Toyota and the book I'm using
>> > said not to remove the cold mixture heater block. Well, it came out
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> Is it OK to use Hylomar on those gaskets? Because that's what I did,
> and I hope I don't have to remove it. :(

Properly installed gaskets don't need sealer.

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Nate Nagel - 28 Oct 2006 11:38 GMT

>>>>I'm replacing the carburetor on my 89 Toyota and the book I'm using
>>>>said not to remove the cold mixture heater block. Well, it came out
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Properly installed gaskets don't need sealer.

Careful about those blanket statements; I defy you to get a Studebaker
V-8 to not leak oil without using some Permatex No. 2 on the "filler
block" between the front of the block and the oil pan or likewise on the
big vent tube gasket that goes on the side of the oil pan.

nate

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Scott Dorsey - 28 Oct 2006 16:34 GMT

>Careful about those blanket statements; I defy you to get a Studebaker
>V-8 to not leak oil without using some Permatex No. 2 on the "filler
>block" between the front of the block and the oil pan or likewise on the
>big vent tube gasket that goes on the side of the oil pan.

It's SUPPOSED to leak. It leaked when it left the factory, it'll leak
today. Next thing you know, you'll be saying you need that glop on
the MGB just because every gasket is squirting a little stream of oil
out. It ALWAYS does that. If you don't leave a little trail behind,
how will you figure out how to get back home?
--scott

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"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

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N8N - 29 Oct 2006 13:06 GMT

> >Careful about those blanket statements; I defy you to get a Studebaker
> >V-8 to not leak oil without using some Permatex No. 2 on the "filler
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> how will you figure out how to get back home?
> --scott

LOL... actually you know what's funny? A while back I bought a
Studebaker long block from a friend to put in my '55 coupe. I used
every single "trick" that I'd heard to keep the engine from leaking,
including the abovementioned strategic application of Permatex products
and converting the front seal from felt to a lip type. Upon assembly
it ran strong but almost immediately began pouring copious quantities
of oil onto the ground. It was so much oil that I couldn't locate the
"leak" - it could have been the oil pan gasket, drain plug, rear main,
I didn't know as the whole underside of the engine was wet. Got it up
on a lift and finally just wiped everything clean by hand and laid
underneath the car just staring at the oil pan until I saw it starting
to leak again. Here it turns out the oil pan I'd used had been
previously bolted to an engine that had apparently experienced a) a
violent crankshaft/con rod separation and b) some amount of water
entering the crankcase, as the pan was both rusted and dented and had
obviously been straightened and brazed in an attempt to fix it.
(sadly, unlike for a Ch*vy, you can't just call up Summit Racing and
get a nice new Studebaker oil pan delivered to your garage.) Well
apparently a pinhole had been missed and the oil was coming straight
out the bottom of the oil pan! Sometimes you just can't win...

nate

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Comboverfish - 28 Oct 2006 17:09 GMT

> >>>>I'm replacing the carburetor on my 89 Toyota and the book I'm using
> >>>>said not to remove the cold mixture heater block. Well, it came out
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> block" between the front of the block and the oil pan or likewise on the
> big vent tube gasket that goes on the side of the oil pan.

Nate,
You're correct for old, pitted castings or poorly designed sealing
surfaces... or for that matter things that hold engine oil. But were
talking about a fairly well engineered, fairly modern carb casting to
thermoset resin adaptor to aluminum manifold joint here. The gasket(s)
job is to hold a gaseous air/fuel mixture at under atmospheric
pressure. There's no need for sealer, additionally you would risk
blocking the vacuum port built into the throttle body casting (just to
name one problem area; I'm sure there are more). Not to mention that
seeing blue Permatex oozing out of a carb base is motive enough for me
to call 'butcher' on the previous "repair".

I've always been of the belief that that resin adaptor would be able to
seal on it's own merit, but wouldn't want to risk it for the cost of
two gaskets. Plus the gaskets serve to keep the adaptor from getting
"compression set" impressions that may lead to sealing difficulties
during subsequent R&R attempts.

Toyota MDT in MO

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Art - 29 Oct 2006 03:17 GMT

Hey thanks for the advise guys. I've got the new gaskets and will put
it back together without sealer after I change the hose from the power
steering reservoir I discovered was leaking. Without the carb in the
way that will be a bit easier too.

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larry moe 'n curly - 29 Oct 2006 03:38 GMT

> > Is it OK to use Hylomar on those gaskets? Because that's what I did,
> > and I hope I don't have to remove it. :(
>
> Properly installed gaskets don't need sealer.

The Toyota factory manual says to use some silicone sealer in the valve
cover gasket, where the camshaft protrudes through the front and where
the gasket meets the half-moon plug at the opposite end. This is a
molded rubber gasket, not a cork one, and the valve cover is cast
aluminum with a machined surface.

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