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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / November 2006

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Lowest 2 blower settings not working

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MAB - 24 Nov 2006 05:29 GMT
Car:  2000 Pontiac G.A. 3.4

Just noticed the other day that the 2 lowest blower settings don't
work. Noting comes out of
the vents as though it's off.  When I move the fan setting to "3" it
suddenly comes out at
the regular 3 speed, which is too high for most situations.

What could be wrong?  Does the actual switch need to be replaced?

Thanks

MB
JustSayGo - 24 Nov 2006 05:47 GMT
The blower motor resister is bad or the harness connector the plugs onto
it isn't making a good connection.

Signature

JustSayGo

http://www.automotiveforums.com

MAB - 24 Nov 2006 06:17 GMT
Wouldn't that blower dial be like a potentiameter with discrete
settings?  Couldn't it have gone bad, or is that not the way it works?

Thanks

MB
> The blower motor resister is bad or the harness connector the plugs onto
> it isn't making a good connection.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> http://www.automotiveforums.com
Stephen H - 24 Nov 2006 06:30 GMT
No, the switch is just a switch, they have a pack of resistors that adjust
the current to the fan motor. When all you get it high, you have a full 12v
to the motor- a direct path, the resistors have burned-- out hence forth no
low speeds.
The resistors are usually in the heater ducting around the passengers feet
or sometimes in the engine bay area passenger side.

Signature

Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
ASE Undercar Specialist

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/
http://www.familycar.com/Alignment.htm

> Wouldn't that blower dial be like a potentiameter with discrete
> settings?  Couldn't it have gone bad, or is that not the way it works?
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>>
>> http://www.automotiveforums.com
Paul Hovnanian P.E. - 28 Nov 2006 04:39 GMT
> No, the switch is just a switch, they have a pack of resistors that adjust
> the current to the fan motor. When all you get it high, you have a full 12v
> to the motor- a direct path, the resistors have burned-- out hence forth no
> low speeds.
> The resistors are usually in the heater ducting around the passengers feet
> or sometimes in the engine bay area passenger side.

I concur, its the resistor stack, burned out between the #2 and #3
setting. If it was the switch or wiring, it would be more likely that
you'd lose a single speed.

On a related note, I'm surprised that auto manufacturers haven't gone to
solid state speed control. They'd save a bundle on the control switch
and wiring by using lower current components.

Signature

Paul Hovnanian     mailto:Paul@Hovnanian.com
------------------------------------------------------------------
Do not interfere in the affairs of dragons,
For you are crunchy and tasty with barbecue sauce.

Don - 28 Nov 2006 05:32 GMT
>> No, the switch is just a switch, they have a pack of resistors that adjust
>> the current to the fan motor. When all you get it high, you have a full 12v
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>On a related note, I'm surprised that auto manufacturers haven't gone to
>solid state speed control.

Some have.  Many Honda's for example, Nissan, Gm also.  Any vehicle
with continuously variable blower speed.   On those the
pulse-modulated power transistor burns out frequently!

Don
www.donsautomotive.com

>They'd save a bundle on the control switch
>and wiring by using lower current components.
Comboverfish - 28 Nov 2006 06:39 GMT
> On a related note, I'm surprised that auto manufacturers haven't gone to
> solid state speed control. They'd save a bundle on the control switch
> and wiring by using lower current components.

Paul,
Surprisingly, the transistorized or stepless modules used in many cars
with auto A/C are very expensive (to purchase at the parts counter),
but that doesn't necessarily mean the part is expensive to produce.
Some vehicles have shown pattern failures on these units as frequent as
other models have had standard resistor block failures.  The problem is
there is usually a $100+ difference in cost in the auto style power
controllers over the conventional style.  But they do benefit as you
surmise by eliminating the high current switch in the dash.  I don't
really have much desire for such splendorous infinite speed control
over 4 speeds or Toyota's 7 speed setup they used to have in the Camry.

Toyota MDT in MO
ninebal310@aol.com - 24 Nov 2006 12:12 GMT
> Car:  2000 Pontiac G.A. 3.4
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> MB

I am not sure about your vehicle, but this is a common problem with
Dodge. On a Dakota, there is a resistor pack that is mounted in the
ductwork on the passenger side under the dash. I replaced mine in just
a couple minutes (2 screws). It cost me under $10 for the part from a
Dodge dealer.

If I were you, I'd ask a GM dealer or maybe someone with a GM on here
can tell you.

Good Luck.

Hank
DanFXR - 24 Nov 2006 15:22 GMT
Blower resister,cost me about $40, mine went a year ago.
Its under the dash,near the floor on passenger side.
The resistor is a newer design compared to the original.

> Car:  2000 Pontiac G.A. 3.4
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> MB
MAB - 25 Nov 2006 02:41 GMT
Thanks for all the replys.  I'll check my Haynes manual or my local
dealer since I'm off on Mon.  If I'm not mistaken this happend when
this 6 year old car was about a year old and under warranty.  I vaguely
remember the dealer telling me that something had "cracked" and needed
to be replaced.  It was under warranty so I didn't pay any attention.

MB

> Blower resister,cost me about $40, mine went a year ago.
> Its under the dash,near the floor on passenger side.
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> >
> > MB
MasterBlaster - 25 Nov 2006 11:32 GMT
> Thanks for all the replys.  I'll check my Haynes manual or my local
> dealer since I'm off on Mon.  If I'm not mistaken this happend when
> this 6 year old car was about a year old and under warranty.  I vaguely
> remember the dealer telling me that something had "cracked" and needed
> to be replaced.  It was under warranty so I didn't pay any attention.

Probably looks like this.
http://info.rockauto.com/SMP/SMPDetail2.html?RU43.jpg
MAB - 27 Nov 2006 21:14 GMT
It does but the GP Sorensen one I got from Advance has a longer circuit
board
than the original.  May be a re-engineer of this product.  It's in and
seems to work
fine.

MB

> > Thanks for all the replys.  I'll check my Haynes manual or my local
> > dealer since I'm off on Mon.  If I'm not mistaken this happend when
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Probably looks like this.
> http://info.rockauto.com/SMP/SMPDetail2.html?RU43.jpg
 
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