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~~WARNING~~
*Please read all instructions before attempting repair*
(you don't wanna miss nut'n)

The chances are good.

Next time you jack it up...pinch the "bellows"  boot
that seals the rack and the inner tie rod.

While pinching the boot, trace the rod inward,
untill you feel the "socket" portion of the inner
tie rod.  That will be the "ball and socket" portion.

(envision a marble, sitting on a thimble)

Now have someone "jolst" the tire side to side,
using about 1/2 inch to 1 inch of movement.

If the tie rods bad, even slightly, you WILL feel
movement between the ball and socket.

a suggestion..........
jack the car up under the lower controll arm.
It eliminates stress, and makes it easier to
identify the problem. And...you can check
the lower balljoints at the same time.

anywhooooo

~:~
MarshMonser
~sips his crownroyal....wonders if you've priced a "long rack"
assembly~
~:~

  :D

If you are talking about the 90's Escort you picked up recently, then
you can bet the inner tie rods are loose.  They wear out extremely fast
on FWD Fords of that era.  They are fairly easy to replace with a tie
rod socket tool or an appropriately sized crows foot wrench.  You will
need to set toe or get it aligned afterward.

Toyota MDT in MO

Okay, how about:

"To eliminate the chance of accidentally damaging internal parts by applying
excessive torque while loosening and/or or tightening the inner tie rod nut, and
if you can't get a wrench securely on the "flats" of the steel rack to ensure there
is no rotational force applied...."  the steering gear should be out of the car.

Is that better?

Or do you just crank the nut down, and when the owner comes back in a week
complaining that the rack is stiff, jumpy, binds, leaks, etc., you just tell him it was
normal wear and it should be replaced and you just happen to have one in stock
and you'll be happy to install it and that'll be another $500 please.