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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / November 2006

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Engine quieter after oil change.

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J J - 27 Nov 2006 13:48 GMT
In every car I have owned the engine sounds quieter at idle just after
an oil change.  But why?
If the engine oil is good for 3000 miles or 3 months shouldn't the
sounds be the same.?
Donald Lewis - 27 Nov 2006 14:17 GMT
>In every car I have owned

What kind of cars are these?

>the engine sounds quieter at idle just after
>an oil change.  But why?
>If the engine oil is good for 3000 miles or 3 months shouldn't the
>sounds be the same.?

Do you let it get 2-3 quarts low  between changes?
Do you check the level between changes?

Don
www.donsauotmotive.com
C. E. White - 27 Nov 2006 14:24 GMT
> In every car I have owned the engine sounds quieter at idle just after
> an oil change.  But why?
> If the engine oil is good for 3000 miles or 3 months shouldn't the
> sounds be the same.?

I suspect you are suffering from the plesbo effect. I know I used to swear
my car ran better after I washed it.
If you really think the car is quieter after an oil change, maybe you should
borrow a sound level meter and make measurements. Be sure to compare a cold
start with the old oil to your fresh oil.

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Regards,

Ed White
http://home.mindspring.com/~ed_white/ - my automotive opinions
http://home.mindspring.com/~ed_white/id7.html - my oil filter comparison

Ad absurdum per aspera - 28 Nov 2006 01:49 GMT
> > If the engine oil is good for 3000 miles or 3 months shouldn't the
> > sounds be the same.?

Well, the change interval doesn't mean the oil is as good as new -- it
merely means that it's still good *enough*.  It will have gained some
contaminants both solid and liquid, and lost some volatiles, and
undergone some breakdown of the more complicated molecules.  It is not
the same stuff you put in.  Well, sure!  That's why you're changing it!

> I suspect you are suffering from the placebo effect.

Could be.  I've noticed the effect too, and others have remarked to me
about it.

> borrow a sound level meter and make measurements.

You might be even better advised, if possible, to look at the power
spectrum of the sound.  My (possibly self-deluding) observation has
been that the engine doesn't get hugely quieter, but that the character
of the sounds improves.  It seems a bit quieter, and... smoother.

Cheers,
--Joe
bob zee - 27 Nov 2006 15:36 GMT
> In every car I have owned the engine sounds quieter at idle just after
> an oil change.  But why?

i have noticed this same phenomenom after oil changes, also.  is it
really a placebo effect or is there really a difference?  the only time
i didn't notice a change was with the 440 Dart that i used to drive.

bob z.
Pete C. - 27 Nov 2006 16:15 GMT
> > In every car I have owned the engine sounds quieter at idle just after
> > an oil change.  But why?
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> bob z.

Part of it probably relates the the notable drop in sound level when you
finally get oil pressure 5 or 6 seconds after the start once the oil
filter has filled.

Pete C.
Shep - 27 Nov 2006 22:53 GMT
Bob you had a 440 Dart, tell me more.

>> In every car I have owned the engine sounds quieter at idle just after
>> an oil change.  But why?
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> bob z.
Nate Nagel - 27 Nov 2006 23:18 GMT
I'm thinking he couldn't hear the valvetrain over the exhaust.  I know
that if *I* had a 440 Dart that would be the case <G>

nate

> Bob you had a 440 Dart, tell me more.
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
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aarcuda69062 - 28 Nov 2006 01:21 GMT
> Bob you had a 440 Dart, tell us more.

Fixed it...
bob zee - 28 Nov 2006 15:09 GMT
> Bob you had a 440 Dart, tell me more.

it was a 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger - 2-door.  it started life as a 225
slant-six.  a 318 fell into it and stayed for exactly one year.
440 went in with 9:1 compression
750 holley vacuum secondary
edelbrock torker II intake
906 casting heads 2.14/1.81 valves
first cam:  mopar performance purple .484 lift (don't remember the
duration)
second cam: mopar performance purple .509 / 292?
third cam (not to be bitten by the junk purple cams and wiped lobes):
compcams mechanical .495 / 282?
this compcam was MEAN.
2" under-chassis headers (http://www.chryslerpower.com/) - these
headers required some careful useage of wrenches, sockets, extensions,
swivels and double-jointed arms for spark plug replacement.  oh yeah,
don't even think about changing the starter without pulling the engine
first.  how many starters did i go through before i bought a good one?
you don't want to know...
727 torqueflite with reverse pattern manual valve body (not for street
use - yeah, right).
3500 rpm 10" GER converter
3.23 geared 8.75" sure-grip rearend (tried a 3.91 for a little while -
too much gear)

i drove this car daily for a year straight.  snow, wind, rain,
blizzard, etc.  the manual valve body helped with the starts on slick
surfaces - put it in second, still spin?  put it in third!  it was a
very fun car to drive and as dependable as anything out there.  i
regularly spun it to 6500rpm.  crusing at 30mph in second gear and then
stomping the gas pedal was always a nice way to clean the rear tires...

bob z.
 
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