 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / December 2006sticking throttle
I recently replaced the engine in my 2000 buick park ave, the 3.8l engine I put back had 13,000 miles on it and runs great but I noticed when I had the engine on the stand that the throttle linkage seemed to stick closed a little bit but I figured it was from sitting and would probably stop on its own. Now with 2000 miles on the swap there is no difference in the throttle. Whats strange is that the throttle only sticks closed slightly when the car has been sitting long enough to run in the store or something and that once you push the throttle one time it will not stick again until the car has been sitting for a while again. > I recently replaced the engine in my 2000 buick park ave, the 3.8l > engine I put back had 13,000 miles on it and runs great but I noticed [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > it will not stick again until the car has been sitting for a while > again. Could be the throttle stop is missing, loose, or mis-adjusted and allows the throttle plate(s) to rub against the throttle-body bore too much. D Or it is carboned up? >> I recently replaced the engine in my 2000 buick park ave, the 3.8l >> engine I put back had 13,000 miles on it and runs great but I noticed [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > D >I recently replaced the engine in my 2000 buick park ave, the 3.8l > engine I put back had 13,000 miles on it and runs great but I noticed [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > it will not stick again until the car has been sitting for a while > again. I assume it has a cable run thru a housing for throttle linkage. Have you checked the housing for a bend, crack, or compressed place(s). It is quite likely if it came from a wrecked car--either in the wreck or during engine removal. If it is so designed & you find nothing from visual check, try removing the throttle end and out of all attaching brackets(one of these could easily hide a crimp), hold end up or out straight, checking for binding crimps etc. While it's up, you might be able to insert some speedo-cable lube in its upright end, letting lube trickle thru housing and cable. If no go here, have a helper press & release the accelerator while you pull the cable back thru the housing--do it several, several times back and forth, enough to create some frictional heat. Then do it continuously, very slowly, while it cools. Should create some play room for the cable. Had it ever been where moisture could enter the housing, it could have oxidized inside. HTH. Sounds like a nice engine! s |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.