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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / December 2006

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94 chevy astro oil pressure switch problem

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nsane420@aol.com - 03 Dec 2006 21:09 GMT
I have a '94 astro van with the 4.3 tbi system. The vehicle starts up
for a few minutes when cold then dies when warm and will not restart
untill cold again. I figured out I am losing voltage to the fuel pump.
I pulled the fuel relay and it was melted so I repaced that. Same
problem. Then I checked the connector to the relay and that was melted
too so I replaced the harness. Now all the voltage is correct to and
from the relay. I found out on these systems that after 4psi oil
pressure, the relay is shut down and the oil pressure switch controls
the fuel pump. So now I get 12v batt. into the oil switch and around 8v
from the instrument cluster to the switch. the lead out to the fuel
pump has 12v also untill it warms up then it just dies and no voltage
is present at the fuel pump lead but i still have the 12v batt and 8v
instrument lead. The way I see it is a bad oil pressure switch. Any
input for me please??? I hate throwing parts at cars and I really need
this van. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Shep - 03 Dec 2006 22:57 GMT
Oil switch is pretty cheap here, put it in.
>I have a '94 astro van with the 4.3 tbi system. The vehicle starts up
> for a few minutes when cold then dies when warm and will not restart
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> input for me please??? I hate throwing parts at cars and I really need
> this van. Any help is greatly appreciated!
nsane420@aol.com - 04 Dec 2006 04:56 GMT
I put the oil pressure switch in and its still the same thing. I still
get the 12v+, the oil gauge 6v and the 12v to the pump untill warm.
Then it just dies and won't start again. I don't lose the 12v+ but the
wire out to the pump reads 0v as soon as it dies. Its not like I'm
losing oil pressure. The cluster reads around 40 psi.
Ted Mittelstaedt - 04 Dec 2006 08:36 GMT
> I put the oil pressure switch in and its still the same thing. I still
> get the 12v+, the oil gauge 6v and the 12v to the pump untill warm.
> Then it just dies and won't start again. I don't lose the 12v+ but the
> wire out to the pump reads 0v as soon as it dies. Its not like I'm
> losing oil pressure. The cluster reads around 40 psi.

Did you ever wonder why the relay was melted?

Could it be that the fuel pump has a problem where when the pump
runs for a while it shorts out or otherwise draws too much current?

Ted
nsane420@aol.com - 06 Dec 2006 02:35 GMT
> Did you ever wonder why the relay was melted?
>
> Could it be that the fuel pump has a problem where when the pump
> runs for a while it shorts out or otherwise draws too much current?
>
> Ted

Its a decently new pump. By decently new I actually mean 2 years old
which really isn't new at all. But would that cause me to lose voltage
out of the oil switch but still have 12v+ in? And the1 2v  to the relay
is most certainly controlled by the ecm/pcm which I watch cut out. Its
a new computer... I checked all +v in and both grounds all is good. I
guess I'm gonna take a closer look at the pump. Do you know the proper
amp specs by any chance??

                                                              thanks
Chad
shiden_kai - 05 Dec 2006 01:37 GMT
> I put the oil pressure switch in and its still the same thing. I still
> get the 12v+, the oil gauge 6v and the 12v to the pump untill warm.
> Then it just dies and won't start again. I don't lose the 12v+ but the
> wire out to the pump reads 0v as soon as it dies. Its not like I'm
> losing oil pressure. The cluster reads around 40 psi.

Never mind about the oil pressure switch.  As usual, you've been
led down the garden path by whover told you that the oil pressure
switch disables the fuel pump relay when you get oil pressure.  That
is not what happens!  The circuit through the oil pressure is designed
to provide a "another" path for current to flow to the fuel pump "if"
the relay packs it in.  It is "not" designed to "turn the engine off" if you
lose oil pressure.

Ian
nsane420@aol.com - 06 Dec 2006 02:39 GMT
I'll try the pump prime tomorrow. There  is published info on the oil
pressure switch/fuel system in Haynes repair manual. Thanks for
everyones input so far...
jdl - 04 Dec 2006 18:38 GMT
As far as the pump relay being de-energized after oil pressure builds, I've
never seen any published information, stating that. I've worked on alot of
GM vehicles and I have never seen that.

There should be a fuel pump prime connector. You can run B+ to that
connector and the pump should run. You don't have to use the key, you
don't have to worry about the oil pressure switch in the fuel pump
circuit, you can try this after the vehicle warms-up and dies, just turn
the key off.. This is just for a test, you can see if the pump runs and
check fuel pressure. I didn't notice a fuel pressure spec listed in your
post, maybe I missed it.

If the system was holding oil pressure for a long time, that o/p switch in
the fuel pump circuit, would remain closed, meaning the pump would run,
until either the oil pressure drained off or the key was turned off.

If there is a red wire coming off the relay, that should lead to the fuel
pump prime connector. That connector is usually on the same side of the
engine compartment as the battery, that doesn't mean it is close to the
battery. The connector can be in different locations on different models.
Sometimes their close to the relay. You could take the pump connector
loose, then run B+ to the prime connector and check for B+ and ground at
the pump connector. Usually you can get to the pump connector without
dropping the tank, you'll have to look.

Like TED suggested, your pump may be having a problem.
jdl - 05 Dec 2006 00:11 GMT
I just wanted to add, if you use a jumper on the prime connector, you might
use a fuse on the jumper.
jdl - 06 Dec 2006 18:22 GMT
Are you saying, according to the manual,once the oil pressure rises, the
fuel pump relay is de-energized?

I just looked at a wiring diagram on your vehicle, the computer has no way
of knowing what your oil pressure is doing and no connection to that o/p
switch in the fuel pump circuit.

I have an old 88 GM vehicle. I have two oil pressure switches, one is
located by the oil filter, that is for the lite or gage on the dash. The
other is located on top of the engine, that o/p switch is in the fuel pump
circuit. In the past I have unplugged that switch, the vehicle started and
ran just fine, the pump was getting voltage through the relay. I plugged
that switch back in and unplugged the fuel pump relay, just let the
connector dangle. The vehicle started and ran just fine. The pump was
getting voltage through the oil pressure switch.

How old is the fuel filter and what is the fuel pressure spec. Maybe you
listed fuel pressure and I missed it.
My generic info for a GM TBI system, says the pump should draw 2--4 amps.
If you check amp draw using the prime connector, I'd use a fuse on the
circuit.
nsane420@aol.com - 27 Dec 2006 02:29 GMT
Thank you Ted and jdl for all of the info. I apologize for the delay. I
have had a constant headache between Christmas, my other car being
totaled and work. I checked the amperage draw (which was almost double
maximum allowable amperage) thought about what jdl said and put a pump
in. So much for Napa fuel pumps. The new dealer pump should keep me in
business. While I was under there I cleaned up and moved the ground a
bit closer to the tank. Thanks again to everyone and have a safe and
happy holiday.

Chad
 
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