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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / December 2006

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tearing down my 302 in search of water in oil

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curt.bussiere - 09 Dec 2006 02:39 GMT
OK I am stumped. I first found frothy tan oil sludge in both valve
covers and a small bit on the end of the dip stick so I assumed my son
(a new driver) got crazy with the pressue washer on the engine. We
drained the oil, flushed the engine added new oil and flter and ran it.
It stayed clean for about a week then the froth appeared again. I cant
figure it out because there is no sign at all of oil in the coolent nor
has there been a drop in coolent level Because I have the time and my
son needs the experiance we will tear off the heads this weekend and
inspect the gaskets and heads. Oh how I hope we find a split gasket
because the alternative (cracked head) will effect my sons ability to
buy me a decent Christmass gift!!    Is it posiable the water pump
could transfer oil into the crankcase?
Scott Buchanan - 09 Dec 2006 06:41 GMT
No.

I'd guess that you are seeing a condensation issue. Is the crank case
ventilation system working right?

> OK I am stumped. I first found frothy tan oil sludge in both valve
> covers and a small bit on the end of the dip stick so I assumed my son
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> buy me a decent Christmass gift!!    Is it posiable the water pump
> could transfer oil into the crankcase?
Hal - 09 Dec 2006 07:40 GMT
> OK I am stumped. I first found frothy tan oil sludge in both valve
> covers and a small bit on the end of the dip stick so I assumed my son
> (a new driver) got crazy with the pressue washer on the engine. We

If the engine is not warming up to normal temperature and/or the
crankcase breather/PVC system is not working you will see condensation
show in the oil like you describe. All is probably not lost, I wouldn't
tear the heads off just yet....

Chris
Frank - 09 Dec 2006 13:40 GMT
> > OK I am stumped. I first found frothy tan oil sludge in both valve
> > covers and a small bit on the end of the dip stick so I assumed my son
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Chris

My motorcycle, with a sight glass for checking oil, will do this during
the winter if I just start it and run it short distances before wimping
out and coming home to the warm house.  Take it out for a good ride of
50 miles or so, and it clears right up.
Lefty - 09 Dec 2006 13:50 GMT
Make sure your thermostat is working and the coolant temperature is at
least 190 degrees and like the previous post make sure your crankcase
is vented properly.

> OK I am stumped. I first found frothy tan oil sludge in both valve
> covers and a small bit on the end of the dip stick so I assumed my son
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> buy me a decent Christmass gift!!    Is it posiable the water pump
> could transfer oil into the crankcase?
lugnut - 09 Dec 2006 14:50 GMT
>OK I am stumped. I first found frothy tan oil sludge in both valve
>covers and a small bit on the end of the dip stick so I assumed my son
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>buy me a decent Christmass gift!!    Is it posiable the water pump
>could transfer oil into the crankcase?

First, are you losing coolant from the reservoir?  Mark the
outside of the reservoir with tape when cold before
starting.  Check it a couple of days afterward to see if you
are losing coolant.  If you are not losing coolant, the
problem is likely related to a deficient PCV system or a bad
thermostat allowing it to warm too slowly/too cool.  You may
also be driving frequent short trips which cause moinsture
to build up in the crankcase because of the moisture
generated in the cylinders and passing into the crankcase.
You need to drive the vehicle 25-30 miles after it is
completely warmed on the highway to see if the condition
worsens or starts to clear.  You are a bit early in
diagnosis to be pulling anything off the engine.

Good luck

Lugnut
I I - 10 Dec 2006 14:13 GMT
I had a 1984 Town Car with a 302.  There was signs of water in oil. On
dipstick there was mayonnaise like goo.  Some one had put a 160 degree
thermostat in it.  Specs called for a 192 degree thermostat. After
putting in the right thermostat, the moisture in oil problems went away.

I suspect the cool thermostat didn't let the engine get warm enough to
burn away moisture.  Lesson learnd: Use the recommended thermostat.
sjoblom1 - 11 Dec 2006 04:46 GMT
Replace PCV valve and check the hose for gunk and clean if needed, replace
thermostat, and flush out the oil, common with this engine.
J J - 11 Dec 2006 15:04 GMT
When replacing the thermostat. Use the recommended higher temperature
one. If specs call for 195 degree, don't put in a 160 or 180 thermo.
 
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