Steel racing wheels?

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y_p_w - 06 Jan 2007 03:29 GMT

We had a discussion on steel vs aluminum alloy wheels
in the Subaru NG. There was one person who was
adamant that typical steel wheels weighed less than
typical aluminum alloy wheels and that better venting
from being more open could be detrimental to braking
efficiency. You can probably guess how many people
thought he was right.

However - in the search, I found a few companies that
make steel racing wheels. They didn't seem to be
terribly expensive and some were rather lightweight.
I'm wondering is their application for some racing
categories where steel wheels are mandatory. It also
sounds as if many of the lighter steel racing wheels
probably won't be the most durable.

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news - 06 Jan 2007 04:03 GMT

> We had a discussion on steel vs aluminum alloy wheels
> in the Subaru NG. There was one person who was
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> sounds as if many of the lighter steel racing wheels
> probably won't be the most durable.

fwiw, my 15x8 race wheels (steel) are about 20 pounds and I'd guess my
15x7 aluminum wheels were about 16 pounds.

my 17x9 alloys off my Trans Am are way lighter than my steel wheels on
my race car but I've not measured them.

I'd guess lightweight steel racing wheels would be for people like me
who are forced to run steel wheels according to the rules.

NASCAR Nextel Cup cars still run steel wheels and I'm sure it's more of
a rules thing than anything.

Ray

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Nate Nagel - 06 Jan 2007 11:35 GMT

I think you're right, most of them are not DOT approved and are
generally used only for stock car racing or dirt track racing (where
being able to bend your wheels back into shape after a race is desirable.)

Bassett I think makes one line of DOT approved steel wheels if you want
to compare apples to apples; ISTR that a 15x7" wheel runs about 20 lbs.

nate

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* - 06 Jan 2007 13:29 GMT

Nate Nagel <njnagel@flycast.net> wrote in article
<459f7d01$0$4885$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>...

> > We had a discussion on steel vs aluminum alloy wheels
> > in the Subaru NG. There was one person who was
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> generally used only for stock car racing or dirt track racing (where
> being able to bend your wheels back into shape after a race is desirable.)

Most steel "racing" wheels - the REAL racing wheels, not the wannabe stuff
sold at Pep Boys - can, indeed, be lighter than aluminum versions.....

....but, they are made of such thin, special alloy material that
straightening them out is often impossible and impractical.

How would you like to have a straightened/weakened wheel let go at 150 mph
in the turn?

Even the people in the lower divisions toss bent wheels.....if the lip gets
bent enough, you can almost guarantee that the mounting surface is also
bent - and that the wheel will NEVER run true again.

Most REAL racing wheels are not DOT approvable, therefore not generally
available as the "racing" wheels that Manny, Moe and Jack sell.

Same goes with the so-called "racing" seats versus the REAL racing seats. I
wouldn't sit in a plastic "racing" seat long enough to have my picture
taken.

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Nate Nagel - 06 Jan 2007 14:31 GMT

> Nate Nagel <njnagel@flycast.net> wrote in article
> <459f7d01$0$4885$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>...
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> bent enough, you can almost guarantee that the mounting surface is also
> bent - and that the wheel will NEVER run true again.

I agree... to a point. However, some of them are specifically designed
to be repairable, to the point that the mfgrs. of the wheels actually
sell special "wrenches" to true up the lips after they've been bent up
by a little rubbin'. I'm guessing this is probably mostly true for the
dirt track guys; I agree with your point that above a certain speed the
consequences of a failed rim aren't very pleasant to contemplate.

http://www.aeroracewheel.com/rimwrench.asp

I don't know how many people actually use these; but they are available
and approved for use by at least one mfgr. of race wheels.

> Most REAL racing wheels are not DOT approvable, therefore not generally
> available as the "racing" wheels that Manny, Moe and Jack sell.

Also agreed, which is why I suggested looking at the Bassett wheels -
they're about the closest thing you're going to find to a NASCAR D-hole
wheel that's comparable to the alloys you'd use on the street.

http://www.bassettwheel.com/dot.html

Here a 15x7" weighs 21.75 lbs (I was close)
15x8" weighs 24 lbs.

compare and contrast with their lightest race-only wheels:

http://www.bassettwheel.com/dhole_asphalt.html

15x7" weighs 16 lbs.
15x8" weighs 17 lbs.

these are NOT DOT approved! You probably *could* run them on the
street... but they wouldn't be legal (God forbid you'd get into some
kind of incident due to a rim failure; if an officer or insurance
adjuster spotted those wheels you'd likely be 100% liable for any
damages) and they'd probably be out of true after the first couple good
potholes.

> Same goes with the so-called "racing" seats versus the REAL racing seats. I
> wouldn't sit in a plastic "racing" seat long enough to have my picture
> taken.

Comfort is very important when you're racing... now if you were sitting
in SOMEONE ELSE's racing seat, yes, you will be uncomfortable, but when
you've got one set up for you (with the foam cut/shaped in all the right
places) they're just as comfortable as a street seat, a lot more
supportive, and a lot lighter.

nate

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