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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / January 2007

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95 Nissan Quest Rotor Fused to Wheel Hub

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Kory.Kendziora@gmail.com - 15 Jan 2007 23:06 GMT
Hi,

I Tried removing the rotor, but it is fused to the wheel hub.  Tried
WD40 all over the place and a rubber mallett with no luck. Also tried a

blow tourch for a minute, and more hammering, no luck.

I figured I would remove the wheel hub, it seems to be fixed.  I
removed the large nut in the middle of the wheel hub and I am able to
push the drive shaft bolt back, but the wheel hub doesn't budge.  tried

using force, but came up with the same result.

I'm doing this for my girlfreind's family as a favor, fun stuff!

Thank you!

Kory
Steve - 15 Jan 2007 23:33 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> I'm doing this for my girlfreind's family as a favor, fun stuff!

Have you read the service manual procedure for removing the rotor and/or
the hub? The hub is NOT retained just by the center bolt- that just
holds the half-shaft to the hub. There are usually retaining bolts that
hold the hub carrier in the steering knuckle. Remove them, then you can
remove the hub and rotor assembly. I'm not famliar with exactly how the
Villager/Quest setup is laid out, but what I've described is how most
FWD hubs mount to the suspension.
Tegger - 16 Jan 2007 01:27 GMT
Kory.Kendziora@gmail.com wrote in news:1168902416.852790.63110@
38g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

> Hi,
>
> I Tried removing the rotor, but it is fused to the wheel hub.  Tried
> WD40 all over the place and a rubber mallett with no luck. Also tried a
>
> blow tourch for a minute, and more hammering, no luck.

If the rotor is the slide-on type that sits against the hub, you're using
the wrong technique. Do you have those empty little 8x1.25mm holes in the
rotor's face?

Get an 8oz ball-peen hammer. Remove any rotor hold-down screws that may be
in place.

Now tap the hammer's small end against the side of the "top hat" of the
rotor, as close to the friction surface as you can without touching the
friction surface. Don't be too gentle, but also don't whack the hell out of
it.

Turn the rotor and keep tapping. Eventually the rust that's locking the
rotor on will break up, fall out the bottom, and the rotor will begin to
wiggle.

If the rotor is the sort that is bolted on from the back, or held on by
some other means, I'm out of ideas.

Signature

Tegger

Steve W. - 16 Jan 2007 19:54 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Kory

Use a wire brush to clean as much of the crap off the area between the
hub and rotor. Now Take the WD 40 can, Walk to the trash can, Throw the
WD40 can in the trash. Buy some PB Blaster and spray the cleaned are
with it. Now take a heavy rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer and HIT
that rotor around the outside. Hit at opposite sides and work your way
around the rotor. Once you have it off use the wire brush and CLEAN up
any rust or crud from the face of the hub and the rotor pilot. Put on a
NEW rotor. The nut you have been playing with only removes the axle
shaft. NOT the hub.

Now before you do much more it would be a VERY good idea to buy the
correct service manual for the vehicle.

Signature

Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York

 
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