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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / January 2007

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Radiator flush

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Michael - 23 Jan 2007 17:59 GMT
I have an oil cooler that is built in to the radiator and it has cracked,
allowing oil to get into the coolant.

I have  some hoses off and have drained and flushed with water but I know
that there's plenty of gunk in there yet.

Is there some sort of product that I can put in the system....let it sit
overnight or so and it will help loosen the crap in there?

I've heard of something like that but never used any and the problem is I
don't want to start the car....I don't want to risk it....so I can't heat
anything I put in there.

Anything that will help just at room temperature?

THANKS.
HLS@nospam.nix - 23 Jan 2007 18:23 GMT
> I have an oil cooler that is built in to the radiator and it has cracked,
> allowing oil to get into the coolant.
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> THANKS.

I have used dishwasher soap, like Cascade.   It is relatively good about
dislodging
oils and fats, is not too corrosive, and can be dumped afterward.
Steve - 23 Jan 2007 22:22 GMT
>>I have an oil cooler that is built in to the radiator and it has cracked,
>>allowing oil to get into the coolant.
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> dislodging
> oils and fats, is not too corrosive, and can be dumped afterward.

I second the motion. But do NOT use regular diswashing detergent like
Dawn or Palmolive. You need the anti-foaming agents that automatic
dishwahser ditergents (Cascade, etc.) have or you'll *never* get all the
trapped bubbles out of the system again.  And don't leave it in too
long- it probably won't make the water pump seals very happy.

Another thing that might work well is a dose of Redline 'Water Wetter'
which is basically just a surfactant package (detergent) plus
anti-foaming and anti-corrosion agents. The advantage is that its made
for radiators, the disadvantage is that it isn't as strong a detergent.

Or you could just flush the system with plain water a couple of times in
a row, driving the car around the block a few times and letting it come
up to full operating temp before draining each time.
z - 23 Jan 2007 18:41 GMT
> I have an oil cooler that is built in to the radiator and it has cracked,
> allowing oil to get into the coolant.
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> THANKS.

I would figure, the stuff they sell as radiator flush. No?
HLS@nospam.nix - 23 Jan 2007 19:16 GMT
> I would figure, the stuff they sell as radiator flush. No?

That is why they offer them for sale.  Some probably work better
than others.
Daniel - 23 Jan 2007 21:27 GMT
> > I would figure, the stuff they sell as radiator flush. No?
>
> That is why they offer them for sale.  Some probably work better
> than others.
============
Would guess your radiator flush is caustic to remove mineral scale
deposits.
A simple detergent like Simple Green or Dawn, thoroughly rinsed from
the radiator and engine block should be the way to remove residual oil
contaimination.
Steve - 23 Jan 2007 22:22 GMT
>>I would figure, the stuff they sell as radiator flush. No?
>
> That is why they offer them for sale.  Some probably work better
> than others.

Most of them are made to break down scale build-up, NOT cut oil and
grease. Two different chemical processes, there.
jpolaski@rgs.uci.edu - 24 Jan 2007 20:15 GMT
> H...@nospam.nix wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> > than others.Most of them are made to break down scale build-up, NOT cut oil and
> grease. Two different chemical processes, there.
I'm certainly no expert, but strong bases (caustics like lye) are great
at cutting oil and grease. I'm pretty sure that what the really
heavy-duty industrial de-greasers use. I remember reading about someone
who had to clean out decades of grease and oil that had accumulated on
the ceiling of an industrial warehouse/workroom. One of the solutions
was to use a solution of hot water and lye.

I know I'm not too clear on the details, so you should research it
yourself, but the point is that a radiator flush will most likely work
well.
HLS@nospam.nix - 24 Jan 2007 22:27 GMT
> I'm certainly no expert, but strong bases (caustics like lye) are great
> at cutting oil and grease. I'm pretty sure that what the really
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> yourself, but the point is that a radiator flush will most likely work
> well.

Cascade is a powdered alkaline cleaner.  It is largely inorganic, does not
foam.
That is why I recommended it.  Neither does it chew up your aluminum pots
and
pans.  It should not have hypochlorite in it.  Read the label.

But buy what you want.

I am a little leery of acidic radiator cleaners.  Some of the ones I used to
see were
based on citric acid, or stronger, in order to dissolve and  sequester the
iron which
is common in blocks.  Acids do nothing for silicate scale.  An acquaintance
used
one of these long ago, and either cracked his block, or OPENED UP the crack
that
was already there.

We used to formulate a cleaner for our Caterpillar division which was based
on
sodium phosphate, with some other additives.  They used this in their water
blast
cabinet for cleaning engine and parts, turbos, etc.  It worked very well.

Lye (sodium hydroxide) may be a bit strong to use, especially if aluminum is
present.
Highly alkaline solutions dissolve aluminum in short order.
Scott Dorsey - 24 Jan 2007 22:33 GMT
>Cascade is a powdered alkaline cleaner.  It is largely inorganic, does not
>foam.
>That is why I recommended it.  Neither does it chew up your aluminum pots
>and
>pans.  It should not have hypochlorite in it.  Read the label.

Yup.  It works well on oils and greases.

>I am a little leery of acidic radiator cleaners.  Some of the ones I used to
>see were
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>that
>was already there.

It works very well to remove calcium scale, though, and will invariably get
a lot of gunk out.  The problem is that sometimes it's the gunk that is
holding the radiator or block together, and removing that scale is a bad idea.

The best thing, of course, is to keep that scale from forming in the first
place, which means regular fluid changes and using distilled water.

>We used to formulate a cleaner for our Caterpillar division which was based
>on
>sodium phosphate, with some other additives.  They used this in their water
>blast
>cabinet for cleaning engine and parts, turbos, etc.  It worked very well.

I can believe that.  
--scott
Signature

"C'est un Nagra.  C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

cuhulin@webtv.net - 25 Jan 2007 03:37 GMT
Many years ago I worked at a cotton oil plant.Twice each year we would
shut down the plant to do maintnance.We used a product called Oakite
which was mixed with water to clean out the gunk inside of the
machinery.When the water was mixed with the Oakite,the stuff would
really warm up and we pumped it through the machinery that needed to
have the gunk cleaned out.The Oakite did a really good job at cleaning.I
don't think I would reccomend it for auto radiators though.
www.oakite.com
cuhulin
HLS@nospam.nix - 25 Jan 2007 13:59 GMT
> Many years ago I worked at a cotton oil plant.Twice each year we would
> shut down the plant to do maintnance.We used a product called Oakite
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> www.oakite.com
> cuhulin

Oakite had a wide line of industrial cleaning compounds. Really good stuff
there.  They
had a product for just about every need, including radiators.
Michael - 25 Jan 2007 13:21 GMT
How long should I leave the cascade in the cooling system?

Overnight?  few hours?

Thanks for the info.
HLS@nospam.nix - 25 Jan 2007 14:02 GMT
> How long should I leave the cascade in the cooling system?
>
> Overnight?  few hours?
>
> Thanks for the info.

A few hours is probably sufficient.  Actually, I have put a cupful in the
radiator
IN the car, started the car and let it heat up and circulate,and then
drained the
whole system.  Never saw a problem with it.

Any time you flush a system, and remove a mass of scale, as others have
posted,
you run the risk of opening a leaky spot.

Why did your oil cooler fail in the first place? Corrosion, accident, ?
j - 26 Jan 2007 03:22 GMT
Make sure that you use liquid Cascade, not the powder Cascade. The powder
can clump up if not dissolved quickly enough. I use liquid Cascade and it
has always worked well for cleaning the radiator and heater core..

> > How long should I leave the cascade in the cooling system?
> >
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Why did your oil cooler fail in the first place? Corrosion, accident, ?
HLS@nospam.nix - 26 Jan 2007 14:13 GMT
> Make sure that you use liquid Cascade, not the powder Cascade.

I use the powder.  Predissolve it, or put it in the water in the  radiator
and circulate until hot.
Clumping could be an issue, but I have never had any problems with it.

Does the liquid Cascade foam?
Scott Dorsey - 26 Jan 2007 14:23 GMT
>> Make sure that you use liquid Cascade, not the powder Cascade.
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
>Does the liquid Cascade foam?

No.  It is intended for use in dishwashers.  Anything used in a dishwasher
will be nonfoaming.  Anything intended for hand dish washing will be foaming
and less alkaline than a dishwasher detergent.
--scott

Signature

"C'est un Nagra.  C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

 
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