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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / January 2007'85 Golf Won't start, carb spitback
A little background info is in order-- I bought this car about 2 months ago from a guy for $500 bucks. It's silver and the body is in great shape. However, whoever owned the car before him pulled all the fuel injection system out of the car and custom mounted a Motorcraft single barrel carb on the original intake manifold. Why? Damned if I know. Because of the custom mount, the carb sits so high that there's no room for an air filter. Anyway, car was running fine and I was doing a bunch of little repairs. I plan to put a new Weber conversion kit on the car soon to replace the Motorcraft (which supplies the car with WAY too rich a mixture as I think it is from an early eighties ford ranger). The car stopped running recently and I can't get it started. When I turn the ignition, the engine turns over, but won't start. If I give it any gas at all, the carburetor spits back and sometimes shoots flames. Just to be sure the electrical was ok (I was fairly sure, since it's spitting flames) I pulled the plug wires and had someone crank the engine so I could see if they'd arc. They did. One shocked the sh.t out of me. The spark plugs I replaced 2 months ago are already covered in carbon. I cleaned them and re-installed them and nothing changed. The carburetor seems to be operating as usual, but I pulled it off and dissassembled it. Accellerator pump works ok, jet sprays, float is working and was full. The fuel pump is working. I mean, I guess all of that should be obvious-- apparently the accellerator pump is flooding the intake manifold and the plugs are igniting the fuel. *Should I be worried about low compression? I don't have a pressure checker. *Could this be a timing problem? Should I see if the timing belt broke? Any other suggestions? > A little background info is in order-- I bought this car about 2 months > ago from a guy for $500 bucks. It's silver and the body is in great [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > Any other suggestions? timing belt probably didn't break, but it may have slipped. I'd personally try to find all the CIS stuff because it's actually a decent, simple system. nate  Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel I really don't have that kind of money. I mean, the thing ran fine before. It just ran really really rich-- which I know can cause problems like precombustion. It's easier to just put another carb on it. I'm just a little baffled by the symptoms. > > A little background info is in order-- I bought this car about 2 months > > ago from a guy for $500 bucks. It's silver and the body is in great [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] > -- > replace "fly" with "com" to reply.http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel I have found that for some strange reason the 'modern' mixes they call gasoline has the effect of turning to varnish really easily which makes the carb float needle stick in the seat. This causes major flooding. I have to remove my needle and seat and clean them every couple years. One other one is a dirty distributor cap. If dirty a weak spark happens which can cause flooding and no or hard starts. Worth a look... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > I really don't have that kind of money. I mean, the thing ran fine > before. It just ran really really rich-- which I know can cause [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] >> -- >> replace "fly" with "com" to reply.http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel Float needle might be the issue. Distributor cap seems to be working-- all plugs are sparking. > I have found that for some strange reason the 'modern' mixes they call > gasoline has the effect of turning to varnish really easily which makes [quoted text clipped - 53 lines] > >> -- > >> replace "fly" with "com" to reply.http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel You might be able to get a partial idea if the timing is on by turning the engine to the timing mark and seeing if the rotor inside the distributor cap is pointing at the right spark plug wire post in the cap. On the timing mark it will either point at #1 or directly opposite. Mike > Float needle might be the issue. > [quoted text clipped - 54 lines] >>>> -- >>>> replace "fly" with "com" to reply.http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel I was thinking about trying this out tomorrow. Anybody else have any suggestions? > You might be able to get a partial idea if the timing is on by turning > the engine to the timing mark and seeing if the rotor inside the [quoted text clipped - 61 lines] > >>>> -- > >>>> replace "fly" with "com" to reply.http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel That's the easy first step... if you think it's iffy pull the upper timing cover (depending on year it is two clips or one allen head bolt) and see how the timing belt looks. nate > I was thinking about trying this out tomorrow. Anybody else have any > suggestions? [quoted text clipped - 66 lines] >>>>>>-- >>>>>>replace "fly" with "com" to reply.http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel Will do.... Now, though, I'm a little worried. I remember that when I first started the car (the night it stopped running) when it was idling I kept hearing a little tap, but not every cycle. It was more like every couple of seconds at the same interval. Is there any easy way to tell if there's been a valve/piston collision? Even if there was a collision at idle speed it probably would have only really damaged the valve right? And that would be obvious under the valve cover. Pistons aren't normally damaged unless you're at high rpm, right? I suppose a compression check is in order.... > That's the easy first step... if you think it's iffy pull the upper > timing cover (depending on year it is two clips or one allen head bolt) [quoted text clipped - 73 lines] > >>>>>>replace "fly" with "com" to reply.http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel-- > replace "fly" with "com" to reply.http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel I don't think an '85 Golf is an interference engine, so it seems unlikely that you'd bend one from cam timing being off. nate > Will do.... > [quoted text clipped - 87 lines] >> >>replace "fly" with "com" to reply.http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel Sweet-- I didn't know that there were non-interference engines. Shows how much I know! > I don't think an '85 Golf is an interference engine, so it seems > unlikely that you'd bend one from cam timing being off. [quoted text clipped - 93 lines] > >>replace "fly" with "com" to reply.http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel-- > replace "fly" with "com" to reply.http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel Removed the timing cover this morning and guess what? Shredded all around. It's still hanging on, but most of the teeth in the belt are rounded over, there's an oil leak from the seal on the cam sprocket. Any tips? Later in the week I'm going to replace it (when I have the cash and time). > Sweet-- I didn't know that there were non-interference engines. Shows > how much I know! [quoted text clipped - 96 lines] > > >>replace "fly" with "com" to reply.http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel-- > > replace "fly" with "com" to reply.http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
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