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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / February 2007

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Tire (ladder-type cable) chain installation tips?

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y_p_w - 26 Jan 2007 19:20 GMT
I've posted a similar question in alt.autos.subaru, but I'm looking
for other experiences or tips.

The car is a 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX with four almost new all-
season tires (Bridegstone Potenza RE960AS).  I've tried driving it
in the Sierras with Pirelli P Zero Nero M+S, which I didn't think
was that great in snow.

At least in California, the AWD with M+S tires is enough to get
me waved through R2 chain checkpoints.  However - I realize
there might be conditions where I still need to get out and put
on the chains if there's substantial ice.  I've tried installing the
chains I've got (Cobra cable chains from Quality Chain) in my
garage.  They attach via a series of bushings that are fitted into
a keyhole end hook.  The instructions state that it should be
done with the car parked, although it may be jacked up with
adequate safety measures (blocking the rear wheels).

So each cable attachment point has 8 bushings.  I could get
them to the 6th bushing on the inside and outside with these
new tires.  At that point there was still quite a bit of slack and
the cables seemed a bit sloppy.  I tried getting the outside
cable to the 7th bushing but couldn't.  The instructions said
to drive the car one length ahead (I didn't try) and retighten.  I
suppose they may be easier to retighten at that point.  There
are also some rubber adjusters available to take up the slack.
I'm not sure where to find them, but they seem like a good
way to make sure the chains are secure w/o overtightening
the side cable.  They also have a crappy keyhole clip that's
supposed to retain the excess side cable.  They don't seem
too secure, so I might just use velcro ties.

<http://www.qualitychaincorp.com/pdfs/passenger_install.PDF>
<http://www.qualitychaincorp.com/detail.phtml?sku=1034>
<http://www.qualitychaincorp.com/accessories.php?s=3&a=misc_parts&sku=0212>

I've looked up other instructions and seen different instructions
for ladder-type chains/cable chains, including:

* Turning the wheels in one direction to make it easier to
reach the connector on the inside of the tire.

* Attaching the chains on loosely, then drive one foot so that
the attachment points are vertically at about axle level.  Then
tighten.

* Using a jack.

* Lay out the chain in front of the car and drive over it so the
attachment points are near the top or axle.

** ** **

I know I can pay a licensed installer, but I can imagine being
in a situation where I need chains and there aren't any
installers.  I'm also curious as to whether it might be a good
idea to get another set.  The owner's manual says that chains
go on the front, but I've heard many indications that an AWD
vehicle with chains only on the front might be more likely to
spin out if the rear tires lose traction.
Steve W. - 26 Jan 2007 23:03 GMT
> I've posted a similar question in alt.autos.subaru, but I'm looking
> for other experiences or tips.
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> vehicle with chains only on the front might be more likely to
> spin out if the rear tires lose traction.

AWD you need chains on ALL four tires. Unless you want to get stuck.

Install the chains as tight as you can, drive ahead a car length or so
and then tighten them some more. Now install the bungee style tension
bands. Instead of buying the spider type they show you can buy a few of
the normal bungee cords and use them by interlocking them to form an X

Signature

Steve W.

y_p_w - 28 Jan 2007 17:00 GMT
>> I've posted a similar question in alt.autos.subaru, but I'm looking
>> for other experiences or tips.
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> bands. Instead of buying the spider type they show you can buy a few of
> the normal bungee cords and use them by interlocking them to form an X

Thanks.  I looked around and only found the round chain
tighteners with five hooks each.  The hooks looked like
they could damage my rims.  I couldn't find the spider
(spoked) adjuster, but I didn't go to any stores that
stock the brand of chains I got.  At this time of year,
I can still find chains here in the San Francisco Bay
Area.

I looked for bungee cords at Wal-Mart.  The large assorted
sized jars had too many sizes I didn't need.  The ideal
size would be 14-16" because the side cable is maybe 20"
diameter.  They had 18" bungees sold in 2-packs.  I bought
them anyways, but then realized I could shorten them by
tying a knot.  I think two on each chain might work, but
three would seem to be ideal.
y_p_w - 07 Feb 2007 00:44 GMT
> > I've posted a similar question in alt.autos.subaru, but I'm looking
> > for other experiences or tips.
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> bands. Instead of buying the spider type they show you can buy a few of
> the normal bungee cords and use them by interlocking them to form an X

I finally saw some Z-style cable traction devices.  A local outdoors
equipment shop has a display that includes the Security Chain Super
Z6.  I played around with it, and it does seem to be really easy to
use.

It uses a very flat pin connector (I don't know what the technical
term
is) that mates in a keyhole latch.  This seems to be far more secure
than the typical bushing with keyhole hook that I see on most other
cable-style chains.  There seems to be a lot less that could flap
around, and they claim it can fit in less than half the space required
for "Type S" clearance.  There's one connector on the inside and two
on the outside.  The "hoop" cables are plastic coated.  They also
don't use regular steel rollers for the biting surface, but multiple
"traction coils" that are wound around the cable.  When all three
connectors are hooked, there's a lot of slack, which then gets
taken out with a rubber tensioner.  Overall - it looks like a well
thought out design.

It's rather pricey though.  I don't know about plunking down $60-70.
Still - they look so easy to install that I wouldn't need to worry
about paying a chain installer $25 (and I'd still have to take off
the chains myself.
 
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