> I can't get the o2 sensor off. It's the one facing the engine. Real easy to
> get to just won't come lose. I'm afraid I'm going to break it. I guess it's
> seared to the exhaust pipe from the heat. Is there an easy was to get it
> loosened up?
> Denso sells an aftermarket version of the A/F ratio sensor for about
> $170 that I presume is the same quality as the OE suppplied Denso
> sensors,
Where would you buy Denso parts aftermarket?

Signature
Tegger
Comboverfish - 28 Jan 2007 02:55 GMT
> > Denso sells an aftermarket version of the A/F ratio sensor for about
> > $170 that I presume is the same quality as the OE suppplied Denso
> > sensors,Where would you buy Denso parts aftermarket?
>
> --
> Tegger
Local parts warehouses around here stock them; these places are where
the Carquest, Napa, etc stores go when they don't have something in
stock.
Or Rock Auto: http://tinyurl.com/3basq2
scroll eight results down to the Denso part# 2349021. Ironically,
they are misrepresenting it as an O2 sensor, but the OE part# cross
reference identifies it for an air fuel ratio sensor application. It
looks like you could save ~$10 on a Standard part, but the extra $
would be worth knowing it's a Denso for sure.
Toyota MDT in MO
Tegger - 28 Jan 2007 14:26 GMT
>> Where would you buy Denso parts aftermarket?
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> looks like you could save ~$10 on a Standard part, but the extra $
> would be worth knowing it's a Denso for sure.
Thanks.
Now another question (that arises from my reading of the Rock Auto page):
What's the difference between OE and "OE-type"? Is it strictly the fact
that one comes from the dealer and one does not? Or are there possible
quality differences as well?

Signature
Tegger
Comboverfish - 28 Jan 2007 18:08 GMT
> Now another question (that arises from my reading of the Rock Auto page):
> What's the difference between OE and "OE-type"? Is it strictly the fact
> that one comes from the dealer and one does not? Or are there possible
> quality differences as well?
I wish I could answer that, Tegger, but I pay very little attention to
aftermarket parts as a dealer tech. Most of my experiences with them
are negative, due to customers asking us to fix a previous "repair"
that involved junk parts to begin with. I use them on my own circle
of cars but only certain parts and certain applications based on
experience.
My best guess in this situation (O2 and ratio sensors) is that the OE
unit is made by the original OEM and the OE type would have the
correct connector premade onto it (direct fit), but could be made by
anyone as long as it is designed in a similar fashion.
Toyota MDT in MO
Tegger - 28 Jan 2007 21:27 GMT
>> Now another question (that arises from my reading of the Rock Auto
>> page): What's the difference between OE and "OE-type"? Is it strictly
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> of cars but only certain parts and certain applications based on
> experience.
And lacking that experience, I don't trust aftermarket, for the most part.
In some cases, I have no choice. For example, my current alternator is a
NAPA remanufactured unit. At the time my original failed due to corrosion,
there was an order backlog for Honda remans, with no ETA on delivery, so I
was forced to install a reman from the best place available at the time:
NAPA.
And guess what? The first NAPA one was a dud. It failed within 10 months.
Its warranty replacement seems to be fine...so far. If this one fails too,
a Honda reman is going in there no matter what.
> My best guess in this situation (O2 and ratio sensors) is that the OE
> unit is made by the original OEM and the OE type would have the
> correct connector premade onto it (direct fit), but could be made by
> anyone as long as it is designed in a similar fashion.
I notice the Rock Auto Denso A/F sensor is listed as being "OE-type" which
is what made me ask my question.

Signature
Tegger
Comboverfish - 28 Jan 2007 22:18 GMT
> >> Now another question (that arises from my reading of the Rock Auto
> >> page): What's the difference between OE and "OE-type"? Is it strictly
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> was forced to install a reman from the best place available at the time:
> NAPA.
Corrosion? What do you mean?
Toyota MDT in MO
Tegger - 29 Jan 2007 00:05 GMT
>> >> Now another question (that arises from my reading of the Rock Auto
>> >> page): What's the difference between OE and "OE-type"? Is it
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Corrosion? What do you mean?
The rotating part corroded to the stationary part. The two were welded
together, resulting in a locked alternator pulley. Much belt smoke and
noise on attempted startup.
This particular alternator was 14 years old. The car had sat for almost
three weeks as we were on vacation, and the extended idleness allowed the
existing corrosion to build to the point where seizure occurred.
Oh, the joys of living in the Rust Belt.

Signature
Tegger
I'm replacing B1S1. Also, I was told a universal sensor from Advance Auto
was OK to use. Am I making a big mistake with that. I'd rather spend the
money if the cons are serious.
Gary
>> I can't get the o2 sensor off. It's the one facing the engine. Real easy
>> to
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>
> Toyota MDT in MO
I choose Polesoft Lockspam to fight spam, and you?
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Comboverfish - 28 Jan 2007 17:59 GMT
> I'm replacing B1S1. Also, I was told a universal sensor from Advance Auto
> was OK to use. Am I making a big mistake with that. I'd rather spend the
> money if the cons are serious.
>
> Gary
After what I posted, does it sound to you like a "universal sensor
from Advanced Auto" is OK? Can you post the part number and full
description for this part, or a link?
Anyways, assuming you really are replacing the B1S1 (on the rear
facing exaust manifold) here's what I would do... BTW. your original
post states that this sensor is "real easy" to get to. I wouldn't
think the average DIYer would consider the B1S1 easy, especially
considering that other sensor (B1S2) *IS* really easy to access.
That's why I have my doubts you are referring to the B1S1.
Spray down the B1S1 metal base and threaded boss on the manifold with
PB Blaster several times throughout the day, and do so on a cold
engine. Do this when you know you won't need the car for the whole
day. Now, get a 22mm or 7/8" combination wrench. Unplug the sensor
connector (I use a long thin screwdriver to release the lock tab from
underneath the car and then pull on the sensor harness to dislodge the
connector all in one move). Thread the connector through the box end
of the combination wrench and place the box end over the sensor hex.
You want the wrench pointing towards the driver's side of the vehicle,
about 10 degrees below horizontal. You will see that this position
gives you some room to get your hand on the wrench. You want the
"clearance" of the wrench to point forward (this is a factor of which
side of the box end that you threaded the connector through; if the
wrench is pointing rearward, then thread it the other way - this way
gives me more leverage and room but it may not be that critical). Get
your best grip on the wrench at the end with one hand, and back up the
wrench with your other hand for stability, then lift yourself off the
ground and your weight should get it to budge loose. If it starts to
come off freely, then Bob's your uncle. Back it out slowly and feel
for any resistance. -or-
If it moves slightly but is still tight, spray the threads again and
tighten it. Then go back and forth in that arc, alternating turning
the sensor and spraying PB Blaster. Try to work the arc larger, but
be patient. Hopefully you can get it out in this manner. If you do
succeed but it was a fight the whole way, I would suggest getting a
cheap sparkplug chaser tool with 18mmX1.5mm threads. The cheapest one
I have seen is a double-ended tool with the common 14mm on one side
and 18mm on the other. Any decent parts store should have it.
Otherwise, ask for an 18mmX1.5mm tap (good luck) or an O2 sensor
repair tap if that exists.
Toyota MDT in MO
Don - 29 Jan 2007 03:39 GMT
>I'm replacing B1S1. Also, I was told a universal sensor from Advance Auto
>was OK to use.
IT IS NOT!
> Am I making a big mistake with that
YES!!
Don
www.donsautomotive.com
> I'd rather spend the
>money if the cons are serious.
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>I choose Polesoft Lockspam to fight spam, and you?
>http://www.polesoft.com/refer.html