I dont know about the Jetta rear disc system, but some of those four wheel
disc
systems  have, or had,  mechanical links to the pistons so that the parking
brake
will have positive displacement.  These can double as adjusters. (Since the
link is mechanical, the typical caliper function may not be what you have
come
to expect)  GM had some like this, and they were terrible about the parking
brake
'adjusters'  freezing.  It was not a matter of the pistons freezing in the
calipers.

When this happened on the older systems, the parking brake would work, but
the
frozen adjuster would hold the pads away from the disc or rotor.  Bad news.

Again, Jetta may not be plagued with this.

When that happened, the rear brakes did not adjust, and all the load was on
the
front.

I would assume, or hope,  VW does not use a similar system, but dont know
for sure.  That is
why I made a statement about the mechanic not checking the function of the
rear
brakes.

You got a front pad and rotor job.  You didnt get a brake job, IMO.   And
even so, I would
have expected the mechanic to bleed the system.

Your life depends on your brakes.  Take it whereever you want, but you
really want to
be sure they are working correctly.

    OK. I would not go back. You need to find somebody you can trust to
look at your brakes and find out what's wrong. It would be a good idea
to have the brakes bled and new fluid all the way around even if you do
nothing else.
-jim

   Hi,Saxton, the following is to educate yourself a bit about your
car--NOT to repair your brake system. It'll allow you to talk intelligently
to & maybe deal better with a good mechanic.
   First ensure fluid level is proper.  If low, get car on a lift or slide
under it & check for leaks.  Apply emerg. brake fully, and attempt to drive
FORWARD.  It should hold & not allow car to move.  Release & then find a
slight hill/slope & see if car will roll downhill without power from the
engine, without emerg. or regular brake applied, & unhindered by any stuck
brakes.  Assuming it rolls freely, you've now found the calipers are moving
in (You said, "Parking brake still stops the car," & now emerg. brake holds
car from pulling off when engaged fully.) AND out ( it free-wheels down the
hill ).
   If this test is passed,  the rear brakes are working WHEN actuated by
emerg. brake mechanism.
   Now with car on a level surface (parking lot?),  idling in neutral, &
wheels chocked, engage emerg. brake positively, release, engage,
rel....15-20 times, quite rapidly, and w/o brakes applied.  Idea is to
"pump" & move rear brakes in and out to try and adjust them a little
tighter--we're assuming they are to be adjusted this way, a somewhat
reasonable assumption.  If we are correct, you should now have more pedal,
and not have to push it as far in to get stopping action.
   Another caveat: If your car calls for metallic pads, materials on
cheaper, non-metallic pads may require more force to stop than proper,
quality pads ;  they may be a tad noisier, w/a scrubbing sound that's esp.
noticeable on the 1st few stops in AM when they are cold.  One last bit of
info: a general rule WE mechanics often use is to "adjust up the rear
brakes" when a customer complains of lo pedal, & front pads & rear
pads/linings are known to be good.  Why?  Because fronts are not adjustable!
   Hopefully some of this will help you make good decisions about getting
your brakes in good working order--it may be the cheapest insurance you ever
buy.  And please believe me when I say there ARE some good, trustworthy, &
conscientious mechanics out there.   Best regards, sdlomi2