OK, well I guess I will have to post specifics then.

I own an '88 Porsche 944.  It's nothing special, it's just my car.
Right now it's basically my girlfriend's occasional driver, as I have
a company provided vehicle.  I just took it to a very well recommended
race shop for some repair work, simply because it is difficult to find
a good mechanic that can work on a Porsche, I'm not sure why this is
but it is.  Anyway, he has done a preliminary once-over of the car and
one of his "punch list" items was to replace a section of rubber
hose.  This is a line from the fuel tank to the fuel pressure damper
on the engine, unfortunately from the factory it is one solid piece
from the rear of the car all the way to the front.  The hose section
is swaged onto the steel line.  The hose began leaking shortly after I
purchased the car, this was actually discovered by a different
mechanic who I took the car to for a timing belt replacement.  That
mechanic cut the swaged collars off and replaced the rubber with a
piece of standard high pressure fuel injection hose, double clamped at
each end.  He basically said that this was not a good fix, that I
should keep an eye on it, etc. and I have - this was three years ago
and it is still working fine, although at some point I was going to
replace it because he used worm clamps and I would prefer to have
smooth fuel injection type clamps on there.

This new mechanic is basically telling me that in his opinion any
repair of that fuel line is substandard work and he recommends
replacement of the entire part.  "fortunately" in his words Porsche
has superceded the old one piece line with a multi-piece line, but
"proper" replacement involves ordering all the new factory Porsche
parts and replacing everything from the tank forward, which would
necessitate dropping part of the rear suspension.  This would be
several hundred dollars worth of parts and close to $1K in labor (at
his shop.)

I don't mind spending money to make a car safe, but when we're talking
about a significant percentage of the car's value, I am tempted to
look for more economical alternatives.  I've found this kit after a
web search:

http://www.lindseyracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=LR&Ca
tegory_Code=944FUELLLINES

also this one

http://www.rennbay.com/hitemp-blue-racing-fuel-lines-base-kit-p-61.html?osCsid=e
5059a300ab3c353b5bfedc3537fdee2

I've been sent some better pics of the Rennbay kit and it appears to
be 3/8" diameter Aeroquip hose.

The only issue I have with both of these kits is their method of
connecting to the hard steel line.  The Rennbay kit uses a standard
high pressure FI screw-and-nut hose clamp, and i'm curious if it
provides enough compression to really crank down on the Aeroquip
hose.  The Lindsey kit uses a compression fitting to attach to the
steel line, which I also don't like.  I had two thoughts:

1) buy the Rennbay kit and use an Oetiker clamp (or two?) instead of
the screw and nut clamp.

2) buy the Lindsey kit and instead of using the compression fitting,
actually cut back the steel line and flare the tubing for an AN tube
nut and use an AN fitting from the hard steel line to the hose.

The steel tubing, after cutting off the factory swaged crimp collar
and removing the factory hose, does have a pronounced barb formed in
it to retain the hose.

Again, I'm not trying to be cheap, but at an estimated cost of $1200 I
figure if I can fix it correctly with one of the methods above, even
if I have to buy some AN plumbing tools, I'll come out ahead by
investigating alternatives. (and then I'd have AN plumbing tools.)

Unfortunately, a leak at the connection where the hose connects to the
hard line would be a serious issue, as that would basically mean that
high pressure fuel would be spraying directly on the exhaust header
(yes, they are tubular stainless not cast iron - so they are probably
even hotter than normal exhaust manifolds.)  So much for that vaunted
Kraut engineering... I guess they didn't learn anything from the
shitty fuel line design of the 914.  So you can see if I am going to
do something non-factory, I want to make absolutely certain that I am
doing the right thing.

I believe the mechanic has a valid point that the current setup is
less than desirable; however, economically it probably makes financial
sense to just drive the car until it burns to the ground rather than
pay him $1200 to fix it...

nate