Thanks for the response. I really appreciate it. I will rescan it and let
you know. As for the MAF reading, I didn't think this vehicle had a MAF
sensor. If you can take the measurement some other way, I apologize. When
you say you need a BARO reading are you speaking of the MAP sensor's output
with key in engine off vs idling? As I stated earlier, I don't think there
are any vac leaks but I may have missed something somewhere, the injector
poppets are a definite possibility, PCV valves are fine (test ok, rattle, no
leaks), MAF sensor out of whack is also a definite possibility (I need todo
some impedence and voltage tests I guess), exhaust system is air tight as it
was just redone (problem existed before as well but again, I will double
check).
When you asked what the readings would be at cruise do you mean with the
transmission engaged or in neutral (stupid question - sorry). I was going
to take readings in every gear if that's at all helpful (just take
freezeframes on-the-fly).
Once again, I appreciate all the help and support that you fine folks have
been giving me.
Andrew.
> It might be. Without a BARO reading, it is impossible to tell.
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> skewed O2 sensors, air leaks in the exhaust system ahead of the
> O2 sensors...
> Thanks for the response. I really appreciate it. I will rescan it and let
> you know. As for the MAF reading, I didn't think this vehicle had a MAF
> sensor. If you can take the measurement some other way, I apologize.
Shame on me for not using my computer glasses when I first read
your post.
> When you say you need a BARO reading are you speaking of the MAP sensor's output
> with key in engine off vs idling?
Yes, if not shown separately, BARO is the MAP reading key on
engine not running.
> As I stated earlier, I don't think there
> are any vac leaks but I may have missed something somewhere, the injector
> poppets are a definite possibility, PCV valves are fine (test ok, rattle, no
> leaks),
Genuine GM part (PCV), not aftermarket?
> MAF sensor out of whack is also a definite possibility (I need todo
> some impedence and voltage tests I guess), exhaust system is air tight as it
> was just redone (problem existed before as well but again, I will double
> check).
Ignore what I said about MAF, I misread and thought you had a 96.
> When you asked what the readings would be at cruise do you mean with the
> transmission engaged or in neutral (stupid question - sorry).
Not a stupid question. Cruise as in cruising on the road.
> I was going
> to take readings in every gear if that's at all helpful (just take
> freezeframes on-the-fly).
3rd or 4th gear at 1000 RPM, 1500 RPM and 2500 RPM keeps it
simple. A vacuum leak does not show up in fuel trims as apparent
at cruise speeds so the trim numbers are usually closer to
center.
> Once again, I appreciate all the help and support that you fine folks have
> been giving me.
> Andrew.
AWN - 27 Feb 2007 01:47 GMT
Thanks again. Here's some atmosph BARO data for you. I live at approx
350ft above sea level which translates to approx 29.16 inHg. I took a
reading of 30inHg which translates to approx 10ft above sea level. Now bear
in mind that I may have my current altitude wrong as I at the base of a
900-1000ft escarpment. Even so, if the MAP was out by 300ft above sea level
equivalent, that wouldn't make a huge difference would it? I would think
we'd be looking for 1000s of feet out to make a wide adjustment?? I'm
actually amazed as to how accurate that sensor really is...
I will go back to the drawing board and do more tests.
Thanks again!
Andrew.
>> Thanks for the response. I really appreciate it. I will rescan it and let
>> you know. As for the MAF reading, I didn't think this vehicle had a MAF
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> Yes, if not shown separately, BARO is the MAP reading key on
> engine not running.
AWN - 27 Feb 2007 05:17 GMT
Ok, I went out for some test runs. It was tough to get anything high speed
because it's complete black ice here everywhere tonight. Anyway...
Key in engine off baro reading - 30inHg which is consistent within about
300ft of my local altitude.
Highest rpm run was 1600
Load 13.3
25% LTFT
12 inHg
30mpH
TPS 5%
-10 IGN
Next run...
1250 rpm
16 mpH
2.0 IGN
STFT 11%
LTFT 24.2%
LOAD 5.4%
10 inHg
Idle test at 900 rpm (a little high b/c of my test runs I think)
IGN back and forth from -1 to -14
25% LTFT
TPS 0%
0 STFT
LOAD 3%
10-11 inHg
**TPS ratings are low b/c of icy conditions - I 'crept' up to speed
I didn't list O2 sensor data because there's no issue with high/low voltage
or switching freq
Does this datastream seem pretty much to baseline/normal specs for what you
would expect to see?
Thanks!
Andrew.
> 3rd or 4th gear at 1000 RPM, 1500 RPM and 2500 RPM keeps it
> simple. A vacuum leak does not show up in fuel trims as apparent
> at cruise speeds so the trim numbers are usually closer to
> center.
aarcuda69062 - 27 Feb 2007 13:38 GMT
> Ok, I went out for some test runs. It was tough to get anything high speed
> because it's complete black ice here everywhere tonight. Anyway...
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> Does this datastream seem pretty much to baseline/normal specs for what you
> would expect to see?
You show a 35% fuel correction on the 1200 RPM run, that is way
lean. The MAP readings, can't tell if thats a simple closed
throttle reading or if they are during decel. If decel, they
should read higher vacuum (lower MAP). Is fuel pressure in spec?
That engine is under fueling by a bunch.
You need to see if the O2 goes high and stays high at WOT high
load...
If I had this in my shop, I'd plumb some propane into a vacuum
port, drive it and see if the propane brings the trims back in
line and if there is a power increase. If so, I'd be on the phone
to Linder for a new spider.
AWN - 27 Feb 2007 15:31 GMT
Fuel pressure is fine - 61psi with the key on engine off and dropping to
maybe 55 after 30min. I don't think that a leak would take that long to
drop the psi but I could be wrong. I've never checked the fuel pressure
while driving but I suppose I could rig something up to make that work
without killing anyone around me...
I don't know if that 30% correction was under decel but I would hazard to
guess - no. I tried to lock in all the frame data while under light load.
I lied - I just rechecked and with the TPS flat, I was coasting and decel.
For giggles, that run showed the following O2 sensor data:
Bank1 0.050V
Bank2 0.300V
On another run with the tps at 5% (1449rpm) the O2 readings were:
28% adjustment in fuel trim while accelerating
Bank1 0.855
Bank2 0.330
You mentioned the dreaded spider replacement as I knew it might be a
possibility. Would it be worthwhile to get a top end motovac treatment done
after exhasuiting all other options?
Thanks again for your help and patience,
Andrew.
> You show a 35% fuel correction on the 1200 RPM run, that is way
> lean. The MAP readings, can't tell if thats a simple closed
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> line and if there is a power increase. If so, I'd be on the phone
> to Linder for a new spider.
aarcuda69062 - 27 Feb 2007 21:24 GMT
> You mentioned the dreaded spider replacement as I knew it might be a
> possibility. Would it be worthwhile to get a top end motovac treatment done
> after exhasuiting all other options?
>
> Thanks again for your help and patience,
> Andrew.
Sure, a Motorvac is worth a try.
AWN - 03 Mar 2007 15:11 GMT
If anyone is interested or still following, the latest on the beast is that
last night VERY late, I did a Seafoam top end treatment (sucked about half
the can up through the vac line from the booster). I let it sit in the top
end of the motor for about 10 minutes and then I idled the motor for about
20min. The smoke was absolutely unbelievable! I thought someone was going
to call the fire dept! Anyway, I limped it out to a country road and gave
it a little punishment to clean out all the excess carbon. I brought it
back to my 'shop' and scanned it again. The long term fuel trim is steady
at about 7-8% (rpm between 680 and 720) and the short term % is nearly flat.
I anticipate that this is due to a mild vac leak now or maybe a slightly
lazy O2 sensor (it seems to stick low a little so I suspect it may be
causing a slight false lean condition still). I am glad to report that the
problem is no longer 'pegging' the ECM at 25%+.
I anyone is interested in 'filing' away situations for future reference...
This may be a worthy memory. If you suspect a poorly running fuel delivery
system, try this seafoam stuff (perhaps before costly injector/spider assy
replacement) if you've never used it before. The responsiveness and idle of
the motor is much more precise also after treatment and I assume my fuel
economy will benefit also. The manuf suggests following up with 1/3 of the
can in both the gas tank and the crankcase but I only treated the top end of
the engine as it was my problem I suspected. For $11 a can, I have no
complaints! I am going to go with the fact that there must have been a
restriction in one of the poppets or perhaps an EGR issue (either way, the
treatment solved the problem almost entirely).
I am going to replumb all the old dried vac hoses, new PCV gasket/elbow and
valve from the stealership etc. - as well as pull and clean (or replace) my
O2 sensors and see if I can get the fuel trim flat. This has been a very
educational experience of which I have learned a great deal more about the
individual sensor's authority affecting fuel trim and my diagnostic
progressions. Once again, I appreciate all your time with this (everyone
involved - especially Jerry and aarcuda69062). I will get in touch if I'm
successful in completely flattening out my trim numbers but for the time
being, I am confident we nailed the issue.
Take the best of care,
Andrew.
>> You mentioned the dreaded spider replacement as I knew it might be a
>> possibility. Would it be worthwhile to get a top end motovac treatment done
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Sure, a Motorvac is worth a try.