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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / March 2007

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p0133 code on Corolla

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Steve - 28 Feb 2007 21:56 GMT
My 2004 corolla was reporting this code which I understand
is  EGO Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1).

The light came on for a few days in very cold weather. Then went away
for a couple of weeks. Came on again for a few days in very cold weather.
Then went away for several weeks and is still off. Occasionally the idle
is too high or a little unstable. Then ok for days.

Is it most likely a slowly failing upper o2 sensor?

What should I check next?

Steve
Comboverfish - 01 Mar 2007 17:49 GMT
> My 2004 corolla was reporting this code which I understand
> is  EGO Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1).
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Steve

I don't know about the idle problem, but that sensor has been updated
somewhere around 2003.  It may be possible that your vehicle got an
older design sensor, but not likely.  Regardless, you should check
with a Toyota dealer to see if they will cover the repair for you --
O2 sensors are covered 3/36 in most states, 3/50 in the green states.

You could have a slow sensor element, a weak heater, or high wiring
resistance.  The computer has not failed the heater circuit or you
would also have a P0125, but that doesn't rule out an underperforming
heater or wiring issue.

Toyota MDT in MO
Steve - 02 Mar 2007 23:03 GMT
Thanks.

I'm in Canada and past 3/36 anyway.

Heater? Does the 02 sensor have a heater or
are you refering to a MAF heater? I think the
corolla has a resistance-based MAF.

Steve

>> My 2004 corolla was reporting this code which I understand
>> is  EGO Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1).
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> Toyota MDT in MO
Tegger - 02 Mar 2007 23:21 GMT
> Thanks.
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> are you refering to a MAF heater? I think the
> corolla has a resistance-based MAF.

The oxygen sensor itself has a heater, to make sure its element stays over
750F. Below that temperature it begins to lose effectiveness.

Oxygen sensors need to be above 500F to start working, and to be at 750F to
be fully effective. Old-style single-wire oxygen sensors relied on the
exhaust gas itself to heat them up. As legislated emissions limits dropped,
this method became inadequate, so a heater was added to the sensor body,
along with dedicated ground wires to ensure electrical integrity.

But doesn't this car have a A/F sensor rather than an O2 sensor? If so, the
heater is even more necessary. A/F sensors run at 1,500F, a temperature
impossible to maintain relying on exhaust heat alone.

Signature

Tegger

Comboverfish - 03 Mar 2007 17:41 GMT
> > Thanks.
>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> this method became inadequate, so a heater was added to the sensor body,
> along with dedicated ground wires to ensure electrical integrity.

All good info.

> But doesn't this car have a A/F sensor rather than an O2 sensor? If so, the
> heater is even more necessary. A/F sensors run at 1,500F, a temperature
> impossible to maintain relying on exhaust heat alone.

Nope, just pre and post O2 sensors.

I am hoping for the day that sensors such as knock and TPS get heaters
as well.  I'm always worried that they'll catch cold.

Toyota MDT in MO
 
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