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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / March 2007What should flywheel resurfacing cost?
Just want to know a ballpark figure so I don't get ripped off. 4.6L ford V8, '97 mustang GT if matters. Looks like it will probably be advisable to replace the clutch since the release/throw out bearing decided to start screaming. After a 151K miles I doubt there's a lot life left on the clutch disc. > Just want to know a ballpark figure so I don't get ripped off. > 4.6L ford V8, '97 mustang GT if matters. Looks like it will probably be > advisable to replace the clutch since the release/throw out bearing > decided to start screaming. After a 151K miles I doubt there's a lot > life left on the clutch disc. How about http://www.fidanza.com/aluminum-flywheels.aspx for the heel and toeing goodness? nate  Signaturereplace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel >> Just want to know a ballpark figure so I don't get ripped off. >> 4.6L ford V8, '97 mustang GT if matters. Looks like it will probably be [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > for the heel and toeing goodness? If this had been planned and I was doing it myself, I'd probably come up with all sorts of things, but the car is 60 miles from where I need to have it to do the work and the bearing is screaming so I am wondering if it is going to make it the 3 miles to the shop. Thanks for the typical amounts. I had a feeling the amount they gave me was way out of line, as in, I could buy a *new* OEM flywheel for only another $63. I wanted to take it to the dealership that did the work the only two times that there was something mechanical to repair that I didn't do myself. The first was the cracked intake manifold coolant passage thing under warranty and the other was the pinon seal some years back >>>Just want to know a ballpark figure so I don't get ripped off. >>>4.6L ford V8, '97 mustang GT if matters. Looks like it will probably be [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > myself. The first was the cracked intake manifold coolant passage thing > under warranty and the other was the pinon seal some years back Are you sure that it's the throwout bearing and not a trans input shaft bearing? Generally there's no pressure on the throwout bearing with your foot off the clutch pedal and it'll be quiet until you shift again. Truth be told, if I were reusing the iron flywheel on one of my cars, and I didn't have any issues with the clutch, I'd probably scuff it up with a D/A and call it soup. There are exceptions, however, like a VW clutch where the wear surface and the mounting for the pressure plate are two different planes, so it is a) difficult to tell by visual inspection if the face is worn enough to cause issues with the PP pressure and b) important to follow proper procedure when surfacing flywheel (i.e. must maintain the proper step height between the wear surface and the PP mounting surface) nate Signaturereplace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel > Are you sure that it's the throwout bearing and not a trans input shaft > bearing? Generally there's no pressure on the throwout bearing with > your foot off the clutch pedal and it'll be quiet until you shift again. When I am not shifting it's a bit noisy. midway on the clutch pedal it goes fairly quiet or gets quite noisy at random. All the way in, it screams. The noise is modulated with the clutch pedal location. The noise when not shifting had me concerned that it was on the trans side or the pilot bearing or just some bigger problem until I dug further. For the 4.6L/T45 design anyway the throwout bearing is always running. The shop manual makes this clear in at least three different places and has an entire proceedure laid out of how disconnect and rig things to make sure what is thought to be input bearing noise on the trans isn't actually the the throw out bearing. > Truth be told, if I were reusing the iron flywheel on one of my cars, > and I didn't have any issues with the clutch, I'd probably scuff it up [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > flywheel (i.e. must maintain the proper step height between the wear > surface and the PP mounting surface) If I go with an OEM clutch I may be able to get away without doing it. The trouble comes in that I am not going to be doing this myself because the last thing I want is to be on the side of the dan-ryan with an asploded throwout bearing. >>Are you sure that it's the throwout bearing and not a trans input shaft >>bearing? Generally there's no pressure on the throwout bearing with [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > the last thing I want is to be on the side of the dan-ryan with an > asploded throwout bearing. You have no sense of adventure :P nate (not one to talk; the last time I forced myself to drive a "questionable" car so I'd have confidence in it, I ended up dead in the Metro parking lot. Of course, the time before that, I had a pleasant drive through some Maryland back roads in my Studebaker, which I subsequently completely disassembled and never put back together.) Signaturereplace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel > If this had been planned and I was doing it myself, I'd probably come up > with all sorts of things, but the car is 60 miles from where I need to > have it to do the work and the bearing is screaming so I am wondering if > it is going to make it the 3 miles to the shop. ] Throw-out bearing? You can make it ;-) Keep it in neutral (clutch engaged) whenever you come to a stop. Use the clutch only for first-gear starts and then shift without the clutch the rest of the time. No biggie. >> If this had been planned and I was doing it myself, I'd probably come up >> with all sorts of things, but the car is 60 miles from where I need to [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > engaged) whenever you come to a stop. Use the clutch only for first-gear > starts and then shift without the clutch the rest of the time. No biggie. If it were empty roads without the possibility of needing to do a first gear start every 10 feet for a few miles :) > Just want to know a ballpark figure so I don't get ripped off. I'm sure the cost will vary by region but my shop charges $40. On Mar 4, 11:21 am, tetraethylleadREMOVET...@yahoo.com (Brent P) wrote: > Just want to know a ballpark figure so I don't get ripped off. > 4.6L ford V8, '97 mustang GT if matters. Looks like it will probably be > advisable to replace the clutch since the release/throw out bearing > decided to start screaming. After a 151K miles I doubt there's a lot > life left on the clutch disc. I paid $23 in phoenix a few weeks ago. Chris > On Mar 4, 11:21 am, tetraethylleadREMOVET...@yahoo.com (Brent P) > wrote: [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Chris That is more the level that I remember. We used to pay $15 to have a flywheel resurfaced. |
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