> > The VW relay works like this; when power is applied to it (i.e. you
> > turn the key on) it will run for 5 seconds and then shut itself off -
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Gotta store that one in the data banks.
> Thanks.
In article
<1174508586.907025.68800@b75g2000hsg.googlegroups.com>,
> > > I don't like the oil pressure switch idea simply because there may be
> > > situations where you make the educated decision to fry your engine to
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> ignition switch; the engine will have to crank over and build oil
> pressure before the pump will start feeding the engine.
When the OP stated that this installation was in an older car, I
assumed* it was a carbureted vehicle.
(* TMOAFU's)
> > > The VW relay works like this; when power is applied to it (i.e. you
> > > turn the key on) it will run for 5 seconds and then shut itself off -
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> output to fuel pump, but I can't swear to it. i'd probably throw an
> "ice cube" at it to take the load off for a heavy-draw racing pump.
I'll take a look thru Mitchell on Demand and see if I can pull up
a schematic.
> i'd be willing to bet that other mfgrs. use a similar fuel pump
> control scheme; I just happen to be *familiar* with VW's so that is
> what I suggested.
Similar in that a tach signal is needed, but they usually rely on
the engine computer to recognize it and thusly control the FP
relay. That VW has this ability self contained in the relay is
intriguing.
A pre computer era example would be the Chevy Vega (spit) and its
variants, carbureted engine, electric in tank fuel pump
controlled by an oil pressure switch.
A post computer GM car would have the FP relay and the oil
pressure switch in parallel
z - 22 Mar 2007 17:20 GMT
> In article
> <1174508586.907025.68...@b75g2000hsg.googlegroups.com>,
[quoted text clipped - 58 lines]
> A post computer GM car would have the FP relay and the oil
> pressure switch in parallel
Mid 80s, a friend of mine had an Audi that stopped working that we
could not figure out; eventually he accidentally knocked the wire
loose from the tach input and it fired right up. the tach input had
shorted out, and that was killing the feed to the relay for the fuel
pump.
Nate Nagel - 22 Mar 2007 23:23 GMT
> In article
> <1174508586.907025.68800@b75g2000hsg.googlegroups.com>,
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> assumed* it was a carbureted vehicle.
> (* TMOAFU's)
So was I, honestly... my only carbureted car tends to sit for weeks at
a time, so it takes a bit of cranking to fire it. That's a selling
point to me of an electric fuel pump - no worries as to whether the
battery is going to run down before it lights off.
>>>>The VW relay works like this; when power is applied to it (i.e. you
>>>>turn the key on) it will run for 5 seconds and then shut itself off -
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> relay. That VW has this ability self contained in the relay is
> intriguing.
Yup, it's all in the little relay. The downside is that the socket is
generally contained in the main fuse block, so the OP's idea of using a
pre-made socket would probably involve a hacksaw, unless a generic Bosch
relay socket has the right holes in it.
nate
> A pre computer era example would be the Chevy Vega (spit) and its
> variants, carbureted engine, electric in tank fuel pump
> controlled by an oil pressure switch.
> A post computer GM car would have the FP relay and the oil
> pressure switch in parallel

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Scott Kelley - 23 Mar 2007 01:34 GMT
>> When the OP stated that this installation was in an older car, I
>> assumed* it was a carbureted vehicle.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> me of an electric fuel pump - no worries as to whether the battery is
> going to run down before it lights off.
It is a carbureted engine. I still don't want to use oil pressure (at all)
as the means of detecting engine operation. Beyond that is the need, as
Nate pointed out, for running the pump initially to refill the carb after
sitting for a month or two.
> Yup, it's all in the little relay. The downside is that the socket is
> generally contained in the main fuse block, so the OP's idea of using a
> pre-made socket would probably involve a hacksaw, unless a generic Bosch
> relay socket has the right holes in it.
My recolection was that when they were first used, the socket for these
relays in some cars was an add-on - not integral with the fuse box. My
trips to the wrecking yard so far have been futile - virtually all of the
relays are being stripped out of these cars (& sold on ebay?). I suspect
that they may be leaving the wrecking yard in jacket pockets.
I do now have a fuel pump relay Socket out of a Volvo, but no relay. From
what I've seen, there are a number of different relays that Volvo used - I
suspect that the later ones do not have the start timer built in. Anybody
know which Volvo relay(s) do have the start timer & ignition sense built in?
Scott
Nate Nagel - 23 Mar 2007 02:25 GMT
>>>When the OP stated that this installation was in an older car, I
>>>assumed* it was a carbureted vehicle.
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>
> Scott
I think it's more like every owner of a VW of "a certain age" wants a
spare fuel pump relay to leave in the glovebox. Generally they can be
disassembled and made to work again, but it's not something you want to
do at the side of the road when it's raining and your car just shat the
bed. So if you do go that route, I'd get two.
nate

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Steve - 23 Mar 2007 18:17 GMT
> I think it's more like every owner of a VW of "a certain age" wants a
> spare fuel pump relay to leave in the glovebox.
So its the VW driver's analog of a Mopar driver's spare ballast resistor...
:-)
N8N - 23 Mar 2007 21:40 GMT
> > I think it's more like every owner of a VW of "a certain age" wants a
> > spare fuel pump relay to leave in the glovebox.
>
> So its the VW driver's analog of a Mopar driver's spare ballast resistor...
Exactly! And what's even more impressive is when you know what you're
doing how you can "fix" a car with a shop rag and a paper clip :)
nate
(been there, done that... there's still a few females who think I'm
some kind of automotive god because of that trick)
dahpater - 23 Mar 2007 23:02 GMT
> >> When the OP stated that this installation was in an older car, I
> >> assumed* it was a carbureted vehicle.
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>
> Scott
I thought the add ons were the repair/replacement. Ifin I remember,
the Audi's, Rabbits, Jetta's and the like had a problem from the
factory with water from the windshield/cowl, leaking on the fuse box
and rusting the connections at the fuel pump relay. To get the pump to
run, I think it was terminal #'s 83 and 57 you jumped. The factories
recognized the problem and had a kit that included a new relay with a
pigtail socket to relocate the relay to the fuse box, but on top. This
was back in the 80's, so my 'memberin might be off a bit!