Anyone got any ideas? My current regiment is to clean with Permatex
mechanic's hand cleaner with lanolin (really! it works! does a great
job on old, hard vinyl too) then smear another coat on, let the "goo"
soak into the leather, buff dry with towel. Then if the seats are still
hard, soak them with some neatsfoot oil until they're soft, then
continue care with normal leather care products (Lexol, etc.)
Problem is, I'm having a hard time finding a new bottle of neatsfoot
oil. If someone has a better idea let me know before I go online and
order some...
Reason I am asking is I bought some old Porsche seats at a swap meet
just for the parts; got them home and did a half fast cleanup on them
and they actually look better than the ones in my car and are "half
leather" whereas my old ones had aftermarket vinyl covers on them, and
the power adjustments all work perfectly. They are hard as rocks,
however...
nate

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Scott Dorsey - 25 Mar 2007 20:49 GMT
>Anyone got any ideas? My current regiment is to clean with Permatex
>mechanic's hand cleaner with lanolin (really! it works! does a great
>job on old, hard vinyl too) then smear another coat on, let the "goo"
>soak into the leather, buff dry with towel. Then if the seats are still
>hard, soak them with some neatsfoot oil until they're soft, then
>continue care with normal leather care products (Lexol, etc.)
Lexol is a mixture of neatsfoot oil, some other oils, and waxes. The
wax gives you a nice shiny surface.
>Problem is, I'm having a hard time finding a new bottle of neatsfoot
>oil. If someone has a better idea let me know before I go online and
>order some...
Ace Hardware carries it. Personally I prefer using the "boot oil" from
Red Wings shoes... it's a little thicker and takes longer to soak in, but
it's a neatsfoot oil blend that seems to last a bit longer than the usual
neatsfoot oil.
Note that neatfoot oil and related products will darken leather. Depending
on the finish, it could darken it a whole lot or just a little bit. Also
note that if you have really old leather, it may take a few months worth of
weekly soak-downs with neatsfoot oil for the stuff to soften up.
>Reason I am asking is I bought some old Porsche seats at a swap meet
>just for the parts; got them home and did a half fast cleanup on them
>and they actually look better than the ones in my car and are "half
>leather" whereas my old ones had aftermarket vinyl covers on them, and
>the power adjustments all work perfectly. They are hard as rocks,
>however...
Hit them with the oil and keep hitting them, but give it a couple months
before you give up on them.
--scott

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cuhulin@webtv.net - 26 Mar 2007 18:39 GMT
I used to see some ads in my old Popular Mechanics and Popular Science
and Science and Mechanics and Mechanix Illustrated magazines many,many
years ago about some kind of car leather treatment restorer stuff.I
guess if you go to a store that sells horse leather tackle,they might
have something like that for sale.
cuhulin
N8N - 26 Mar 2007 19:56 GMT
> >Anyone got any ideas? My current regiment is to clean with Permatex
> >mechanic's hand cleaner with lanolin (really! it works! does a great
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> note that if you have really old leather, it may take a few months worth of
> weekly soak-downs with neatsfoot oil for the stuff to soften up.
Since the seats are black, I don't think that will be an issue :)
> >Reason I am asking is I bought some old Porsche seats at a swap meet
> >just for the parts; got them home and did a half fast cleanup on them
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> before you give up on them.
> --scott
Ayup... I priced some stuff on amazon and pure neatsfoot oil is about
1/3 the price of any of the blends so I just ordered 64 oz. of that
which a) was about $20 with shipping and b) should last me a good long
time :)
nate
Steve B. - 27 Mar 2007 05:03 GMT
>Ayup... I priced some stuff on amazon and pure neatsfoot oil is about
>1/3 the price of any of the blends so I just ordered 64 oz. of that
>which a) was about $20 with shipping and b) should last me a good long
>time :)
>
>nate
I missed the first part of this topic so Leatherique may have already
been mentioned. Greatest stuff I have found for bringing back aged
leather.
http://leatherique.com/
Steve B.
N8N - 28 Mar 2007 17:03 GMT
> >Ayup... I priced some stuff on amazon and pure neatsfoot oil is about
> >1/3 the price of any of the blends so I just ordered 64 oz. of that
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Steve B.
I have heard of the stuff, and mostly good, but the name didn't pop
into my head until I read your post... I guess if the oil doesn't
work I will have to give it a try, although the stuff appears very
pricey!
nate
Nate Nagel - 01 Apr 2007 13:44 GMT
>>>Ayup... I priced some stuff on amazon and pure neatsfoot oil is about
>>>1/3 the price of any of the blends so I just ordered 64 oz. of that
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> nate
Follow up: I put some of the neatsfoot oil on the seats friday night
and by this morning the seats were noticeably softer. I put some more
on this AM because I will be gone all day and it should be nice and
sunny. Stuff appears to be working!
nate

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Knifeblade_03 - 27 Mar 2007 18:11 GMT
Getting the leather warm, say in good sunlight or with a hairdryer will
speed up the absorption process. Neatsfoot oil, not the compound,
works very well.

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Nate Nagel - 27 Mar 2007 23:55 GMT
> Getting the leather warm, say in good sunlight or with a hairdryer will
> speed up the absorption process. Neatsfoot oil, not the compound,
> works very well.
That should be no problem, it was up around 80 degrees today, and the
car is black, black, and black :)
nate

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Knifeblade_03 - 28 Mar 2007 16:40 GMT
Sounds like you're all set, LOL. Cool. Actually, your use of
lanolin-based treatment works well for leather. I'd be very hesitant of
a hand cleaner, though, as the detergents and de-greasers don't help the
leather fibers and will weaken the fibers.
But, any high-percentage lanolin lotion/oil/wax is good. Leather treats
lanolin as a natural oil, although it doesn't absorb as quickly as a
neatsfoot.
You want the treatment to get into the leather, not just moisten the
surface. The surface is finished, as a result, the treatment needs
absorption time to get through the finished surface to the underlying
fibers where most of the stiffness is occuring. This takes time and
several applications, especially since you can only treat one surface,
where I usually treat both sides of my leatherwork to speed things up.
Even though you have a black interior [which makes things much easier,
LOL], you want to control the absorption process. Otherwise, some
darker areas may occur. [Not too critical for black, but thought I'd
mention this]. And, since you have nice weather, absorption should be
quick.
I control absorption by applying the treatment, let sit for around 3-5
minutes, and wipe off excess with a soft towel. Leather has it's
natural absorption rates, which differ across the leather hide. Your
conditions seem to indicate 2-3 minutes.
Then, re-apply, and repeat for a few times. Let it dry [absorb]
overnight, and check how it looks the next day. Repeat process until
desired softness and colorization are to your liking. Getting the
leather soft will most likely darken the color noticeably.
Products like armor-all, maguire's, saddle soap are primarily good for
surface after-care, but ineffective in penetrating to the fibers, where
you need to get to.
Most horse-tack cordwainers use neatsfoot or some lanolin-based
paste/oil to soften their tacks. Oil for the primary softening, and the
paste for after-oiling through the leather's usage. They also try to
keep the leather warm, around 70-75 degrees ambient, to maximize the
treatment. Too low, lower absorption, too high results in spotting.
Sorry if this is a bit long, but I've had great success in leather
conditioning with the above. And, as you posted, I'm taking your query
from reconditioning a very dried-out leather cover, not a general
shine-up.

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