Just curious.  How's the brake pedal feel?  Does it feel firm and the
brakes work fine?  Any pulling to one side or the front or rear locking up
on hard braking or slick roads?
 You didn't say what kind of vehicle and that might not even matter; might
not...  It's just that I'm used to "idiot lights" (named for the light, not
the driver:) not coming on unless there's a problem.
 Now, you say the brake switch "seemed to work".  The mechanical brake
system is pretty much apart from the brake light.  Start with a volt meter
(cheap at parts shops if you don't already have one) and check where the
system stops working.  Check the wire going into the switch to be sure it
has 12 volts.  Then, use an ohmmeter to see it's off when no brake & on when
braking.  You can double check by seeing 12V out of the switch when braking.
If that's good, go back to the rear of the car and see if you have 12V in
the light socket.  Just keep narrowing it down til you find where the short
or open is.
 Most times, electrical problems aren't complicated.  They're just a pain
in the butt; twisted up under the dash, pulling panels, tight spaces, etc.
Make sure you have a wiring diagram (Haynes, Chilton, etc.) and track down
the circuit.  Hope this helps.  If not, some shops specialize in tracking
down the bugs.
 Drink

.
.
(disclaimer)
(reply layout in compliance with MasterBlaster Net Controll)
(in such case as MasterBlaster is NOT a certified NetCop..)
(future replies to NG posts of OP's may not follow this format)

(now.....on to this weeks sitcom...let's tune in as we hear..
Lostpech spew:)

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======
On Apr 12, 6:52?pm, lostapech...@yahoo.com wrote:

========
========

Dear Sir,
  we have recieved your request for technical support and would,
at this time, like to welcome you into the group.
  However, we are unable at this time to address your concerns,
as you have (regretfully) omitted the year, make, model, eng. size,
prod. date, VIN number, transmission type, and "any" and "all"
previous service or repair history information concerning the vehicle
in question.
 We would highly suggest, and eagerly anticipate, a more detailed
analysis of any and all diagnostic techniques that have been taken,
and more importantly....they're outcome.  Please be pointedly
precise and non-transit in the detailing of these two items.  Not
doing so would only hamper, and perhaps delay, any or all diagnostic
suggestions (guess's), that the FK'N PROFESSIONALS.....in this
NG would offer to you.

Please feel free to forward the necessary vehicle information, along
with appropriately formatted questions, not to omitt the mileage
please,
and your concerns will be addressed at that time.

untill then,

if you would like,

you "could"........

fill the BRAKE...(not break)....reservoir......

and do a repost with the outcome.

( a guess, only a guess, in case of a REAL emergency
contact a John Deer Dealer...or whoever else may have
made whatever it is you may be possibly drive'n to the
liquor store)

~~
00
L
O

~:~
MarshMonster
~sips his mushroom tea..takes a toke....wonders if you've
thought of using black "fanger"nail polish as a stop-gap
repair~
~:~

I don't know what kind of vehicle you have. But every car/truck that
I've ever seen with a "Tail/Stop" idiot light illuminates that indicator
when there is trouble with your lights or circuit. That this lamp comes
on when the brake pedal is depressed indicates that the switch is fine.
Try checking the tail/brake lamps.