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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / April 2007

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Flywheel puller for a briggs and stratton?

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ngdbud@gmail.com - 20 Apr 2007 05:59 GMT
I have a 5.5 hp briggs and stratton i'm rebuilding for fun. after
struggling with the flywheel and doing a quick google search I found
that i need a special tool to do this right. One sight said it would
be easy to make your own flywheel puller with some extra metal and a
drill press. I have acess to my highschool auto shop so it would be
easy for me. How exactly do these tools work? It might help to have an
understanding before I try to make one. Some directions on how to use
one would be great.
C. E. White - 20 Apr 2007 12:49 GMT
>I have a 5.5 hp briggs and stratton i'm rebuilding for fun. after
> struggling with the flywheel and doing a quick google search I found
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> use
> one would be great.

Wacking the end of the crankshaft didn't loosen it? I don't know what
a 5.5hp B&S is like, but for older ones, all I had to do to remove the
flywheel was remove the retaining nut and wack the end of the
crankshaft with a big hammer (I protect the end of the crankshaft with
a piece of very hard oak). I've never had one yet that didn't pop
loose. They were on a taper and the shock always caused them to move
up the taper. The 5.5 Hp might be different though.

Ed
HLS@nospam.nix - 20 Apr 2007 13:59 GMT
> Wacking the end of the crankshaft didn't loosen it? I don't know what
> a 5.5hp B&S is like, but for older ones, all I had to do to remove the
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> loose. They were on a taper and the shock always caused them to move
> up the taper. The 5.5 Hp might be different though.

Ive seen some that needed the puller torqued up and still had to have a
sharp
rap to break them.

The OP can buy a gear puller for a few bucks which will work fine on this
application.   When I can buy a tool for a few bucks,  I dont waste time
trying to build one.   Harbor Freight might have a cheap unit.
ngdbud@gmail.com - 21 Apr 2007 00:15 GMT
> > Wacking the end of the crankshaft didn't loosen it? I don't know what
> > a 5.5hp B&S is like, but for older ones, all I had to do to remove the
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> application.   When I can buy a tool for a few bucks,  I dont waste time
> trying to build one.   Harbor Freight might have a cheap unit.
ngdbud@gmail.com - 21 Apr 2007 00:10 GMT
> <ngd...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Ed

I heard about that. I was afraid of messing up something so i didn't
hit very hard. I have some blocks of wood and a large metal hammer.
I'll try that.
ngdbud@gmail.com - 21 Apr 2007 00:24 GMT
> <ngd...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Ed

ok, good news and bad news. The good news is the flywheel came off
with one sharp wack protected bay a few inches of 2X4. Bad news, does
anyone know to remagnetize a flywheel?
HLS@nospam.nix - 21 Apr 2007 01:09 GMT
> ok, good news and bad news. The good news is the flywheel came off
> with one sharp wack protected bay a few inches of 2X4. Bad news, does
> anyone know to remagnetize a flywheel?

Unlikely that your flywheel became unmagnetized.  I have never seen it
happen.
Use fine sandpaper to dress the magnetic insert in the flywheel.
Use new points  (if this applies) and carefully set the gap and index.
Should come up firing.

If it is REALLY demagnetized, I have no idea what to tell you.  Buy a new
one,
or find a company that can reenergize your old one.
ngdbud@gmail.com - 21 Apr 2007 19:42 GMT
> <ngd...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> one,
> or find a company that can reenergize your old one.

I doubt the one whack did it, i had tapped it a few times but
something happened. the magnets can't even hold a paper clip now that
its off the engine.
HLS@nospam.nix - 21 Apr 2007 21:22 GMT
> I doubt the one whack did it, i had tapped it a few times but
> something happened. the magnets can't even hold a paper clip now that
> its off the engine.

Unusual.  Does this engine have a solid state ignition rather than the
magneto
type that most of us wout be more familiar with?

If it is the old standard magneto type, then clearly you will have to
replace the
flywheel.
Bob Flumere - 22 Apr 2007 00:38 GMT
>> <ngd...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>something happened. the magnets can't even hold a paper clip now that
>its off the engine.

On the older engines with breaker point magneto ignition, you had to
remove the flywheel to get access to the breaker box to service the
contacts and....

I have hit literally thousands of these flywheels with a regular ball
peen hammer, either on the end of the crank or, (the way they pop off
the best), by hitting them one sharp blow on the counterweight
(opposite the magnet) and NEVER ever destroyed the magnetism.
Thinking back over the years, I have never even seen a Briggs flywheel
with dead magnets.  
Something was radically wrong with your flyweel before you hit the end
of the crankshaft..  

These engines are unfortunately made to be thrown away, and the
time required to set up a puller to do such a basic job would actually
exceed the value of most of the engines..  (tongue in cheek here).

All of the newer ones are solid state ignition anyway, and usually the
cylinder block wears out before there is any ignition problem and
being solid state, servicing the ignition does not require the
flywheel to be removed anyway. (It is all in the coil.. nothing
underneath the flywheel to be serviced except the crankase seal.)

Go to your local mower shop, and ask them to let you look in their
scrap pile for another flywheel or whole engine for that matter, I
used to get them by the dozen for my small engine classes that way.
Most all will run after minor repairs, although with Briggs aluminum
bore engines, most will smoke due to bore wear and they are not
economically  rebuildable. On the plus side, they are not very
expensive to replace with new complete engines either.

Bottom line, you did not harm your flywheel by removing it in the way
that  you did...  

Bob Flumere
rflumere@comcast.net
spamTHISbrp@yahoo.com - 20 Apr 2007 13:57 GMT
> I have a 5.5 hp briggs and stratton i'm rebuilding for fun. after
> struggling with the flywheel and doing a quick google search I found
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> understanding before I try to make one. Some directions on how to use
> one would be great.

If its like mine, there are 2 bolt holes on the top of the flywheel.

Drill a stout metal bar with 2 holes the same distance apart as those
on the flywheel.

Bolt the bar to the flywheel with the center of the bar on top of the
crankshaft.

Gently and evenly tighten the bolts to pull the flywheel off the
shaft.

Dave
 
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