Problem removing rear brake cylinders on Pontiac Grand Am (1996)

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frustrated - 01 May 2007 16:24 GMT

Hi all, I decided to replace (instead of rebuild) my rear brake
cylinders, and am regretting the decision. If anyone has done this
before let me know. The hole just isn't big enough to allow the old
cylinder to pass through, and I don't know how to get it out of the
mounting. Can anyone help?

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Steve W. - 01 May 2007 18:44 GMT

> Hi all, I decided to replace (instead of rebuild) my rear brake
> cylinders, and am regretting the decision. If anyone has done this
> before let me know. The hole just isn't big enough to allow the old
> cylinder to pass through, and I don't know how to get it out of the
> mounting. Can anyone help?

You did clean off the rust and crap?
Remove the retaining bolts and the line. Then pull the cylinder out. The
hole is large enough IF the rust and crap is gone.

Rust makes the part swell in size.

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Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York
NRA Member
Pacifism - The theory that if they'd fed
Jeffrey Dahmer enough human flesh,
he'd have become a vegan.

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Steve B. - 01 May 2007 20:44 GMT

I don't know your particular car but on every car I have done drum
brakes on there is no hole that the wheel cylinder needs to pass
through. You remove the tire and drum and you are looking at the
wheel cylinder. Unbolt it from the back and remove the brake line and
then pull the wheel cylinder off.

Steve B.

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PAuL - 01 May 2007 23:57 GMT

There is no pass thru hole. The cylinder will literally fall off
if you take the line and bolts off.
It only takes a few minutes per side after you get the wheel off.

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Mike Walsh - 02 May 2007 00:31 GMT

If it is anything like my 1992 Beretta it will not fall out. There was just enough clearance to get the original cylinders out. I had to use a pry bar to bend the backing plate so I could get the new cylinders in.

> > Hi all, I decided to replace (instead of rebuild) my rear brake
> > cylinders, and am regretting the decision. If anyone has done this
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> if you take the line and bolts off.
> It only takes a few minutes per side after you get the wheel off.

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Mike Walsh
West Palm Beach, Florida, U.S.A.

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longlacryan - 02 May 2007 01:08 GMT

I'm a licenced mechanic and i think that you are having trouble getting
itout from behind the hub assembly. try taking the bleeder screw out to
allow for rotation and make sure that you removed the breake shoe return
springs and move the shoes back.

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longlacryan

http://www.automotiveforums.com

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frustrated - 02 May 2007 16:10 GMT

Thanks all for your help, after spending a total of 2 1/2 hours
prying, scraping rust off, and twisting every which way I decided to
go buy the rebuild kit and just go that route, 30 minutes later both
sides were done and I felt much better as I bled the brakes and there
were no leaks. To address all of your answers, the entire brake shoe
assembly was removed, the bleeder valve was removed, and someone in
another forum suggested I remove the hub assembly. I loosed the bolts
on the hub assembly, but it would not separate from the backing plate,
and I abandoned that route as well. But I really want to thank
everyone for taking a minute or two to answer my question.

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