I just replaced the alternator, battery and starter, checked ground
connection solid, battery cable replaced a few years back. When the
ignition key is turned on, sometimes it starts ... sometimes it don't,
it just "clicks" and "clicks" (solenoid making contacts), but would
not crank the engine. Battery voltage at 12.7V, with all connections
tight, engine still won't crank. I run out of ideas ... what could be
the problem now? Starting is intermittent. If you leave it alone,
come back later, it'll fire up, when you shut it down ... tried to
restart again, chances are it would not restart. Any idea why and
what's happening here?
Comboverfish - 16 May 2007 02:10 GMT
On May 15, 5:32 pm, Falcon...@aol.com wrote:
> I just replaced the alternator, battery and starter, checked ground
> connection solid, battery cable replaced a few years back. When the
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> restart again, chances are it would not restart. Any idea why and
> what's happening here?
If there is only one click per start attempt, then it sounds like a
typical Nippondenso starter with worn out solenoid contacts. If the
starter is a parts store reman, it is highly suspect even if new.
Using a DVOM, place the + lead on the large starter lug and the - lead
on chassis metal. What is the voltage now? What kind of voltage are
you reading when the key is turned to "start" and there is only one
loud click? Is it about the same? If so, the starter is likely
bad. You wouldn't get one solid, loud click if the solenoid wiring
was the culprit. If the voltage in the second test step drops quite a
bit, you have a voltage drop on that circuit, but that is unlikely,
even for a '86 Van.
If you still have no luck, place the + lead in the back of (backprobe)
the smaller solenoid wire terminal at the starter. Check voltage when
turning the key and getting the "click". You should have battery
voltage here if the starter is the fault. If there is much less than
battery voltage, the first thing I would check is the neutral start
switch for high resistance in the park/neutral contacts. It is
located on the transmission right under the shift linkage on the trans
case.
Toyota MDT in MO
clifto - 16 May 2007 07:34 GMT
> I just replaced the alternator, battery and starter, checked ground
> connection solid, battery cable replaced a few years back. When the
> ignition key is turned on, sometimes it starts ... sometimes it don't,
> it just "clicks" and "clicks" (solenoid making contacts), but would
> not crank the engine.
Turn the headlights on before trying to start it. Report back how the
headlights act during the time the starter fails to crank.

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Scott Dorsey - 16 May 2007 14:26 GMT
>I just replaced the alternator, battery and starter, checked ground
>connection solid, battery cable replaced a few years back.
Did you do this in an attempt to solve the starting problem or did the
starting problem exist before you did this?
>When the
>ignition key is turned on, sometimes it starts ... sometimes it don't,
>it just "clicks" and "clicks" (solenoid making contacts), but would
>not crank the engine.
And do all the interior lights dim when you do this?
>Battery voltage at 12.7V, with all connections
>tight, engine still won't crank.
12.7 with no load sure sounds like a weak battery to me. What is the
voltage while you have the starter engaged?
I run out of ideas ... what could be
>the problem now? Starting is intermittent. If you leave it alone,
>come back later, it'll fire up, when you shut it down ... tried to
>restart again, chances are it would not restart. Any idea why and
>what's happening here?
Where did you get the rebuilt alternator and starter from? What was the
car doing before you installed them? Did you change the voltage regulator
when you did the alternator?
--scott

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Comboverfish - 16 May 2007 17:47 GMT
> >Battery voltage at 12.7V, with all connections
> >tight, engine still won't crank.
>
> 12.7 with no load sure sounds like a weak battery to me. What is the
> voltage while you have the starter engaged?
Why? 12.68 volts is the theoretical full charge of a standard six
cell auto battery in non-loaded and non-topcharged state.
Did you mean that 12.7 volts seems low during charging? I think the
OP is referring to an open circuit reading.
At any rate, I outlined some simple tests he could do to isolate the
problem if he's so inclined.
Toyota MDT in MO