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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / June 2007

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1977 Chrysler New Yorker 440 Bbl

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paul_turner@sympatico.ca - 15 Jun 2007 21:24 GMT
I'm seriously thinking of buying one of these great old whales. Is
there anything that I should be looking at in particular?
Any common faults?
Any known rust areas?
Anything that will tell me "don't buy this clunker"

Any advise received with thanks

Paul
a - 15 Jun 2007 22:02 GMT
Find out when transmission was last rebuilt.... check out how many miles on
the transmission thats in there now.

> I'm seriously thinking of buying one of these great old whales. Is
> there anything that I should be looking at in particular?
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Paul
Nate Nagel - 15 Jun 2007 22:56 GMT
Why?  shouldn't it have a TF727, i.e. "the best goshdarned 3-speed
automatic ever installed in a passenger car?"

nate

> Find out when transmission was last rebuilt.... check out how many miles on
> the transmission thats in there now.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>>
>>Paul

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Comboverfish - 16 Jun 2007 00:29 GMT
> Why?  shouldn't it have a TF727, i.e. "the best goshdarned 3-speed
> automatic ever installed in a passenger car?"
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

Yep, very sturdy *and* so easy to rebuild that anyone contemplating
their first trans teardown should experiment with a 727 first.  Even
if it was shot that wouldn't be a deal breaker IMO.

Toyota MDT in MO
Steve B. - 16 Jun 2007 04:00 GMT
> I'm seriously thinking of buying one of these great old whales. Is
> there anything that I should be looking at in particular?
> Any common faults?
> Any known rust areas?
> Anything that will tell me "don't buy this clunker"

Body and interior are where the money is.  With many of the old
Chrysler products the mechanical parts are still on the shelf at the
parts store and cheap as dirt but body parts and interior doodads are
hard as hell to find and pricey when you do.

These cars love to rust behind the front wheels and behind the rear
wheels.  The leanburn system was a good idea but not the most reliable
thing after 30 years.  Plan on replacing the carb and distributor with
non leanburn units if it hasn't been done already.

This car was built at a time when emissions requirements were coming
on strong but the technology to meet those requirements didn't exist
yet.  Even though you got  a "big ol" engine under the hood it has no
balls.  The engine was severely  detuned and had many emissions
controls that ran off vacuum and magic.   Don't expect it to have
power or decent gas mileage.

I love these old boats myself.. including their faults.  I have had
several slightly older Imperials and they are amazing cars.  Very
luxurious interiors and all the bells and whistles.

          Steve B.
Steve - 16 Jun 2007 16:13 GMT
> Find out when transmission was last rebuilt.... check out how many miles on
> the transmission thats in there now.

Phooey. This car will have an A-727, not an A-604 like a 90s minivan. A
727 will last forever if cared for. Its like a GM Turbo 400, except
about 10 times better. :-)
dye - 21 Jun 2007 18:26 GMT
>> Find out when transmission was last rebuilt.... check out how many miles on
>> the transmission thats in there now.
>
>Phooey. This car will have an A-727, not an A-604 like a 90s minivan. A
>727 will last forever if cared for. Its like a GM Turbo 400, except
>about 10 times better. :-)

I'd love to buy a car on which every part was engineered to those
degrees...."you'd have to do something pretty stupid to break that"
kind of parts...

--Ken "it would cost a billion dollars" Dye

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Nate Nagel - 21 Jun 2007 22:26 GMT
>>>Find out when transmission was last rebuilt.... check out how many miles on
>>>the transmission thats in there now.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> --Ken "it would cost a billion dollars" Dye

A late 60's/early 70's MoPar comes close.

nate

(and yet people still broke 'em!)

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Steve - 24 Jun 2007 23:17 GMT
>>>Find out when transmission was last rebuilt.... check out how many miles on
>>>the transmission thats in there now.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> --Ken "it would cost a billion dollars" Dye

Well... you could buy a '77 New Yorker ;-)
Nate Nagel - 15 Jun 2007 22:57 GMT
> I'm seriously thinking of buying one of these great old whales. Is
> there anything that I should be looking at in particular?
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Paul

Check thoroughly for rust.  A lot of MoPars were unibodies (not sure
about a NYer) and therefore rust is a Big Deal.  Also see if it has the
Lean Burn system still operational; if it hasn't been converted to a
conventional carburetor pay special attention to driveability as the LB
systems are known to be problematic.

good luck,

nate

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Steve - 16 Jun 2007 16:15 GMT
>> I'm seriously thinking of buying one of these great old whales. Is
>> there anything that I should be looking at in particular?
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> Check thoroughly for rust.  A lot of MoPars were unibodies (not sure
> about a NYer)

ALL Mopars made after '67 are unibodies, and from '50-something to 67
the only non-unibody was the Imperial.

and therefore rust is a Big Deal.  Also see if it has the
> Lean Burn system still operational; if it hasn't been converted to a
> conventional carburetor pay special attention to driveability as the LB
> systems are known to be problematic.

I didn't think the 440 got Lean Burn, just the 400. But if it does have
Lean Burn, Nate is right. Just convert it to regular electronic and go.
Steve - 16 Jun 2007 16:09 GMT
> I'm seriously thinking of buying one of these great old whales. Is
> there anything that I should be looking at in particular?
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Paul

I certainly wouldn't tell you "don't buy it," I love the last of the
full-size C-bodies!

The main thing to watch for on a 70s Chrysler is the cam gear. They,
like all the big-3, used nylon cam gears to silence the chain chatter,
but the nylon gears deteriorate and the timing chain will slip, which on
some of them can put valves through pistons. Regardless of mileage, that
engine should get a new timing chain and gear set, preferably a roller
type (available through Edelbrock, Cloyes, etc.) The drivetrain is
otherwise just about bloody bulletproof- you really cant get much
tougher than a 60s/70s Mopar engine/transmission combo. Of course at
this age, it will need the usual maintenance- carburetor rebuild,
fluids, filters, rubber parts. RESIST THE TEMPTATION to get a
parts-store "rebuilt" carburetor. They're complete crap, if you can't
rebuild it yourself, send it to some carburetor restorer like the
carburetor shop (http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Frames.htm). In fact,
resist that temptation with everything- starters, alternators, PS pumps,
etc. Lots of stuff is avaialble brand new- Edelbrock high-efficiency
water pumps for example, retrofitting Nippondenso alternators, Edelbrock
"Thunder Series" carburetors, and even modern AC systems
(classicautoair.com). Take a look at the under-hood of my C-body here:

http://lonestar.texas.net/~sglacker/MMCA/AC_kit/AC_Kit_Install.html

That's my daily driver so reliability comes first, hence the new
components you see such as the carb, alternator, and waterpump, not to
mention the AC. Keep the original AC if it works and doesn't leak- mine
worked great up until this year- but if the compressor is toast consider
the classic kit like I have.

Rust-proofing on that era Chrysler is "ok." Definitely far, far better
than the 77-80 F-bodies (Aspen/Volare) but not as good as a few years
earlier. Areas to watch on Mopars are around the rear window, in the
trunk, and in the rear quarter panels. Less likely, but worth scrutiny,
would be the cowl vent area, which can clog with leaves and debris.
IIRC, the NYer has concealed wipers, so its very easy to get at this
area- open the hood, remove the plastic screens below the wipers, and
carefully reach your whole arm down in there and pull out the muck.

Other than that, enjoy!
 
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