On Jun 28, 10:23 pm, box...@sasktel.net wrote:

Hmmm.... no mention of a check engine light in the original post.

The only item of those three that would cause severe power loss even
during full throttle mode would be the MAF, and I doubt a cleaning
would restore a MAF that reported so poorly as to cause your
symptoms.  Even if it was unplugged the PCM would go into a backup
strategy that would allow for fair drivability.

Toyota MDT in MO

box...@sasktel.net wrote:

OK, now I get it.  Found this in another thread...
_____________________________________________________
it seems ok when the engine is cold but when warm it idles ok, if i
am
sitting at a red light then the light turns gren the suburban barely
crawls across the intersection. it will cruise on the highway ok but
when i go to pass another vehicle it lacks acceleration. The fuel
pump
was replaced a year ago. the fuel filter was replaced about 4  weeks
ago. the plugs and distributor cap were replaced a couple weeks ago.
the exhaust system was replaced from front to back yesterday with O2
sensor simulators and no catalytic convertors. the compression on the
number 1 cylinder is 120. i didn't check the rest. fuel injector
cleaner was added to fuel tank in the last month. the last garage
that
looked at it said the distributor was advanced 18 degrees. they set
it
for top dead center by pulling out the distributor and moving it over
one cog. I am starting to think the timing chain jumped a cog. any
ideas?
_________________________________________________________

Interesting shops you go to.  One shop takes off the cats on an OBDII
vehicle and then installs rear O2 simulators.  Sweet!  That's not the
best part.  The other shop thinks that your Vortec distributor
position effects final ignition timing, and moves it one tooth to
somehow compensate.

I get the feeling it would take a lot of money and competence to get
this thing back to a legal and properly* running state after all of
this butchery.

*Properly, not "seems OK".

Toyota MDT in MO