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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / July 2007

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F-150 cooling system puzzler.

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Nate Nagel - 02 Jul 2007 02:54 GMT
Hi all,

below is a copy of a post to alt.trucks.ford, now with click-poppy
picture goodness.

I took my "new' truck to its first job yesterday, helping a friend
clean out a guy's stash of old car parts.  No problems at all until I
got to my first stop, when I shut the truck down it puked coolant
everywhere.  Still never got above the "O" in "NORMAL" on the temp
gauge for the remainder of the trip.  This AM bottle was empty.  I
pulled rad cap and coolant level was just slightly down from the neck
of the bottle.  I noticed that there are two hoses connected below the
rad cap, one to the bottle and one to a tee in what looks like a
heater hose.  The tee looks factory as the hose connections are
crimped.  I noticed that the hose going to the bottle was connected to
the fitting below the sealing surface for the rad cap and the one
going to the tee was above.  It seems to me that this is backwards and
the system would never pressurize in that condition; my gut tells me
that I should just swap the hoses, refill with coolant and see what
happens.  Is this correct?

Truck is '93 F-150, 300, E4OD, extended cab 2WD.

Here's some pics:

http://members.cox.net/njnagel2/FordCooling/hosepics.html

thanks!

nate

PS - are there any good cheap shop manuals for this truck, or is the
factory manual the only one that's worth buying?
Signature

replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Mike Walsh - 02 Jul 2007 04:26 GMT
You are correct. Switch the hoses.

> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> http://members.cox.net/njnagel2/FordCooling/hosepics.html

Signature

                  Mike Walsh
           West Palm Beach, Florida, U.S.A.

Erik - 02 Jul 2007 05:29 GMT
> PS - are there any good cheap shop manuals for this truck, or is the
> factory manual the only one that's worth buying?

Try this place for 'real McCoy' factory manuals:

http://www.faxonautoliterature.com

Note that for your Ford the 'manual' will consist of a healthy stack of
various sized volumes... I suggest getting them all.

Obviously, they are a big help during the life of the vehicle, but are
also a good selling point when that day comes... or if it ends up being
totaled or junked, the manuals sell well on eBay.

Good luck!

Erik
jim - 02 Jul 2007 12:51 GMT
This would be the "automatic flush" configuration. Just fill the bottle
when ever you drive somewhere.

    It will be interesting to see if the cooling system leaks when you hook
it up so that it builds pressure. This may have been a way to make it
derivable long enough to sell. OTOH the puking cooling system may have
been the reason it was sold.

-jim

> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
> http://members.cox.net/njnagel
N8N - 02 Jul 2007 15:04 GMT
Thanks for reinforcing my worst suspicions...  I don't think the PO
would rip me off because I know him, but a) he never did any work on
the truck himself - he wouldn't know an overflow bottle from a head
gasket and b) I have a receipt from a month or so ago detailing a
cooling system flush and a pressure test (how could it have passed a
pressure test like this?) so I have to wonder if the shop he was
taking the truck to was cutting corners... although if there was a
real problem I don't know why they wouldn't just tell him so he'd pay
them to fix it.

we will see, I guess.

nate

> This would be the "automatic flush" configuration. Just fill the bottle
> when ever you drive somewhere.
[quoted text clipped - 47 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -
jim - 02 Jul 2007 16:25 GMT
> Thanks for reinforcing my worst suspicions...  I don't think the PO
> would rip me off because I know him, but a) he never did any work on
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> pressure test like this?) so I have to wonder if the shop he was
> taking the truck to was cutting corners...

They could pressure test using the hose going to the overflow tank. Now
was it that they didn't notice that it was hooked up wrong? or was it
that they hooked it up wrong after they were done.

>although if there was a
> real problem I don't know why they wouldn't just tell him so he'd pay
> them to fix it.

Yeah, something doesn't add up. but unless this guy only drove a few
short trips since the work was done you would think he would have become
aware of the problem. Doesn't seem like you could drive it alot like
that without it losing enough coolant to overheat.

> we will see, I guess.
>
[quoted text clipped - 51 lines]
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
N8N - 02 Jul 2007 18:29 GMT
> > Thanks for reinforcing my worst suspicions...  I don't think the PO
> > would rip me off because I know him, but a) he never did any work on
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> was it that they didn't notice that it was hooked up wrong? or was it
> that they hooked it up wrong after they were done.

Hmmm... you may be on to something there.  I guess i was ASSuming that
they would have used an attachment that replaced the radiator cap,
that's the only kind of pressure tester I'm familiar with.

> >although if there was a
> > real problem I don't know why they wouldn't just tell him so he'd pay
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> aware of the problem. Doesn't seem like you could drive it alot like
> that without it losing enough coolant to overheat.

I think that's exactly what happened.  He sold me the truck because he
used it only once a month or so.  When I bought it the bottle was
empty but the rad was full.  I ASSumed that this was because the
bottle was loose and flopping around (tabs busted) after I zip tied it
in place and refilled I drove it around town for a couple days with no
apparent ill effects.  It didn't puke until I'd driven it for about 30
min. straight on the highway and then parked it.

nate
Comboverfish - 02 Jul 2007 15:22 GMT
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> that I should just swap the hoses, refill with coolant and see what
> happens.  Is this correct?

I suspect that you already have your answer, but yes, the overflow
hose needs to be above the sealing surface of the radiator cap
(atmosphere).  The other hose is a return for the lesser cooling
circuits of the engine/vehicle, like heater core, induction warming,
bypass circuits, etc. and must be routed to the standard radiator tank
(under pressure).

Man, I haven't seen a Ford straight 6 in a while.

Toyota MDT in MO
N8N - 02 Jul 2007 15:27 GMT
> > Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> bypass circuits, etc. and must be routed to the standard radiator tank
> (under pressure).

Cool, I just really wanted to confirm that the other hose was going to
the right place.  I have to admit I've never seen anything like that
before, and my friend with a slightly newer F-150 does not have that
tee in the heater hose, nor a lower fitting on the radiator neck
(guess that does kind of confirm that that is correct.)

> Man, I haven't seen a Ford straight 6 in a while.

Are you saying my truck is old?  That's the newest vehicle I own!
(that probably says something about my choices in vehicles, but I'm
not sure what, and I'm not sure I want to know...)

nate
Comboverfish - 02 Jul 2007 16:30 GMT
> > Man, I haven't seen a Ford straight 6 in a while.
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> nate- Hide quoted text -

Nah, it's probably due to the stuff I see most.  Even the old Fords I
fix on the side are mid 90's and up.  Heck, I'm not even sure what the
'96-up bodystyle uses for the base engine... the smallest I've seen in
those is the 4.6 V8.

Toyota MDT in MO
 
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