First the background...the vehicle is a 93 Nissan Quest minivan, 6 cyl
engine, with an exhaust leak.
It has about 270K miles on it, and living on borrowed time, so putting
in $500 to replace pipes is not very cost-wise. Yet I don't want exhuast
fumes coming up & I'll have to pass the state's DEQ soon.
The leak is directly above the heat-shield, on the top side of the pipe
that comes down from the manifold located nearest the firewall, right
next to the junction with the pipe that comes down from the front
manifold.
I already tried one of those "muffler-wraps", but it didn't seem to hold.
(the diameter of the piece at that point is two "pipes" wide)
So, who here has made a "fix" such as this work? (I'm thinking no more
than a year before I send the Quest to the auto-recycle)...I'm particularly
interested in hearing what type of epoxy or putty or glue will hold up
exaust temperatures (before it hits the catalytic converter).
If you can recommend a commercial product that you have found to work,
or any success/failure experience you have had in this area, great.
TIA,
Stan.
MasterBlaster - 03 Jul 2007 10:21 GMT
> First the background...the vehicle is a 93 Nissan Quest minivan, 6 cyl
> engine, with an exhaust leak.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> I already tried one of those "muffler-wraps", but it didn't seem to hold.
> (the diameter of the piece at that point is two "pipes" wide)
Is the pipe straight at that point, or is it curving or changing diameter?
Maybe try the original muffler wrap or "cement" goop, then a tin can or
a short piece of parts-store exhaust pipe, cut lengthwise into a "C" shape
(stronger than a tin can), and hose clamps to hold it all together?
CraigFL - 03 Jul 2007 12:29 GMT
JB Weld for exhaust systems may be the only thing that might work but it
sounds too hot for even that. Can't you get someone with a TIG or MIG
welder to fix it? If it's cracked, drill holes at the end of the crack
first before welding.

Signature
CraigFL
http://www.automotiveforums.com
Bob Johnstone - 03 Jul 2007 12:47 GMT
> First the background...the vehicle is a 93 Nissan Quest minivan, 6 cyl
> engine, with an exhaust leak.
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> Stan.
Find some "Pyro-Putty". It's good for very high temps...
Ray - 03 Jul 2007 15:15 GMT
> First the background...the vehicle is a 93 Nissan Quest minivan, 6 cyl
> engine, with an exhaust leak.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> next to the junction with the pipe that comes down from the front
> manifold.
my experience with trying to patch Y pipes that close to the engine is
muffler cement anything won't hold.
The only fix for that is replacing it or welding the hole shut, but I
can almost guarantee the whole pipe is effectively rotten and the more
you try patching it, the more you'll end up replacing.
Also, if you're trying to fix it to pass an inspection, you'll probably
find that they won't pass a muffler cement-beer can-hose clamp fix anyway.
Sorry.
Ray
Scott Dorsey - 03 Jul 2007 15:21 GMT
>I already tried one of those "muffler-wraps", but it didn't seem to hold.
>(the diameter of the piece at that point is two "pipes" wide)
The key is that you need to clean the area THOROUGHLY, the way the directions
on the material says. That means at least sandpaper, maybe a grinder and file
as well. You should see bright metal on all places where you are applying
the wrap.
>So, who here has made a "fix" such as this work? (I'm thinking no more
>than a year before I send the Quest to the auto-recycle)...I'm particularly
>interested in hearing what type of epoxy or putty or glue will hold up
>exaust temperatures (before it hits the catalytic converter).
There are many epoxies that will work, and so will high temperature RTV
but they won't work if the area isn't perfectly clean. Buy whatever your
local auto parts store has, and polish the area.
--scott

Signature
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."