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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / July 2007

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Problems with Chevy Blazer

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loctavius@gmail.com - 04 Jul 2007 00:07 GMT
Ok - long story short - my truck hasn't been right since I moved from
Colorado to Florida four years ago. (1999 Chevy Blazer LS, 4 door,
4WD, 4.3L V-6 Vortec, fully loaded)

Problem 1: The check engine light will not go off. When we hook it up
to a computer, it says "Random Cylinder Misfire" After a tune-up, the
light goes off, then comes back on and stays on. Occassionally it will
turn off for a while, but then comes back on. Interesting side note -
if I drive it back up to Colorado and stay at an altitude of 4000 ft
or higher, the light goes off and stays off and I have no trouble. Not
sure what that is all about. I do know that all the gas in Colorado
contains Ethanol, the gas here doesn't. This is a minor problem that
would be nice to fix, but not a big deal. By the way, I had the
dealership at one point change out the sensor for that and it still
comes on.

Problem 2: Last year I got stuck in front of a huge mud puddle on the
dirt road in front of my house after a very severe and very heavy
rain. I ended up with water in the engine and blew an intake valve. My
dad tore it apart and fixed that, but ever since then, it hasn't been
quite right. At times it seems to vapor lock, and it has slowly been
losing all of it's "balls" so to speak - It used to jump right up
there, now it takes me MINUTES to get up to 70mph on the highway.  The
other day it started losing power and refused to do anything when I
hit the gas, so I pulled over. It had coolant. It had gas. Oil was a
bit low, but it smelled "burned" if that makes sense. I left it for a
few hours, went back, put some oil in it, at which point the burning
smell went away, and nursed it home. My wife said she saw "several"
puffs of smoke come from out of the tailpipe on the interstate that
day from the vehicle behind me she was in.

Occasionally if I am driving when it is cool out during the night or
cool during what passes for winter here in Florida, it runs great.
Lots of get up and go, no hesitation, etc. Sometimes I'll hit the gas
and the engine and the tach revs up, but I get NO increase in speed at
all. It felt a little bit like the tranny was slipping, so I put some
stuff in it to fix that and supposedly plug up any leaks, and it has
quit slipping like that on me.

I took it to the mechanic, and he ran a compression check on it, which
turned out ok,  then hooked it up to the computer. He called to tell
me I need a "massive tune-up" - plugs, wires, PCV valve, fuel filter,
roter and cap, etc. We just did all this about 18 months ago when part
of the fuel injection system died, and I don't even have 93,000 miles
on the truck yet! It isn't due for it's first tune up until 100,000
miles, and here I am on my second one. So WTF? This makes NO sense to
me at all, and frankly, I'm really very disappointed. I have owned
Chevys my whole life, and I have never had this much trouble from a
car.

Anyway, I hope that is enough for you folks to give me an idea of what
the problem is and why it keeps recurring. I don't want to do it, I
truly don't, but unless Chevy starts to offer a TRUE 100,000 mile
bumper to bumper warranty like some of the foreign cars do, I am going
to have to buy one of those. I want my Blazer. I love my Blazer when
she is running right. More importantly, she is PAID OFF! Thanks in
advance.

James
(Oh, and for the record, I am not in a position to take on another car
payment, no matter how small, for at least another year or two)
dahpater - 04 Jul 2007 00:24 GMT
Check the fuel pressure. Check the exhaust for a clog.
boxing@sasktel.net - 04 Jul 2007 05:38 GMT
a couple of things, it runs better in colorado. quite likely its
cooler in colorado. it runs better in florida on a cool day. the
thermostat when it gets older no longer opens at 195 degrees it opens
at a higher temperature. put in a new thermostat and you should notice
your blazer running cooler and better.
Redneckbikerjedi - 07 Jul 2007 22:47 GMT
After almost $500, the problem has been fixed for now. It is running
well - better than it was after I had it repaird when the engine blew
after being stuck in the mud puddle.

However, the longer term question remains, and I'll re-state it
quickly.  The plugs, wires and distributer cap were all fried.
Completely. The throttle body needed cleaning, the fuel filter was
clogged and the PCV needed to be replaced. They also did an overdue
oil change. (They checked some other things I asked them to look at -
compression test, fuel pressure, checked the EGR valve to see if it
was clogged/dirty, checked the thermometer, and checked out the tranny
- all were fine)

What I am not getting is WHY are plugs and wires (and the distributer)
failing after such a short time? I have now had two tune ups on this
truck and it has just under 93,000 miles. There is a larger problem
here - something is wrong with the engine or the computer that is
frying parts, and I'm getting a bit fed up with it. I don't want to
have it back in the garage in another year or two with the same
problem again. I'm going ot save up just in case, but still.....

I love Chevy. I would like very much to own Chevy's my whole life. But
until they can build a reliable engine AND offer true bumper-to-bumper
100,000 mile warranties like some of the foreign auto makers, I may
very well be driving a Japanese or German car soon.

Any ideas are much appreciated.
Steve Austin - 07 Jul 2007 23:02 GMT
> After almost $500, the problem has been fixed for now. It is running
> well - better than it was after I had it repaird when the engine blew
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>
> Any ideas are much appreciated.

4.3's have a big problem with aftermarket distributor caps.
Scott Dorsey - 08 Jul 2007 01:39 GMT
>However, the longer term question remains, and I'll re-state it
>quickly.  The plugs, wires and distributer cap were all fried.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>was clogged/dirty, checked the thermometer, and checked out the tranny
>- all were fine)

This sounds like you haven't been doing regular cleaning and proper
maintenance.

>What I am not getting is WHY are plugs and wires (and the distributer)
>failing after such a short time? I have now had two tune ups on this
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>have it back in the garage in another year or two with the same
>problem again. I'm going ot save up just in case, but still.....

Wait a minute?  You're doing a tuneup every thirty thousand miles and
considering this excessive?  That's not a problem, that's just normal
preventative maintenance that you should be doing before you notice
any problem.

Parts fail, they get old.  Things like the cap and rotor are wear items
that are designed to be replaced regularly.

>I love Chevy. I would like very much to own Chevy's my whole life. But
>until they can build a reliable engine AND offer true bumper-to-bumper
>100,000 mile warranties like some of the foreign auto makers, I may
>very well be driving a Japanese or German car soon.

If you don't do proper maintenance, NO car will be reliable.
--scott

Signature

"C'est un Nagra.  C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Nate Nagel - 08 Jul 2007 02:40 GMT
>>However, the longer term question remains, and I'll re-state it
>>quickly.  The plugs, wires and distributer cap were all fried.
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> If you don't do proper maintenance, NO car will be reliable.
> --scott

I nhis defense, the manufacturers themselves do not generally recommend
tuneups at 30K miles (not sure about Chevy, as the newest one I've had
to mess with is my dad's '73 Custom-10...) and are doing everything they
can to stretch service intervals for bragging rights on the showroom
floor.  That's not to say that blindly following their recommendations
is a Good Idea...

I'd ask the OP what brand plugs and wires he is using, there is a
noticeable difference in quality between "good" and "bad..."

nate

Signature

replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

jim - 08 Jul 2007 04:19 GMT
> In his defense, the manufacturers themselves do not generally recommend
> tuneups at 30K miles

The manufacturers don't recommend sucking muddy water into the engine
either. He said in his first post that it hasn't been running right
since he did that last year. In defense of the mechanic who worked on
it, starting with a tune-up was probably just the first step in
straightening out whatever was wrong with it.

-jim
Redneckbikerjedi - 08 Jul 2007 03:20 GMT
Back up a minute.

I have done two tune-ups in a 17,000 mile period. Not even close to
30,000. Next, the owner's manual and the dealership both say that my
Blazer doesn't even need it's FIRST tune-up until 100,000 miles, and I
have just under 93,000 right now.

I may occasionally get late on an oil change by a thousand miles or
so, but I am doing maintainence. I use fuel injector cleaner every
three tanks. I change the air filters, etc.  I have been taking care
of this truck.

The problem is NOT that I am having to do normal work on it, the
problem is that the truck has now burned up two sets of plugs and wire
and the distributor cap at 76,000 and again at 93,000. That is NOT
normal, I don't care what you say. They are not wearing out, they are
literally burning up and failing completely.

> Wait a minute?  You're doing a tuneup every thirty thousand miles and
> considering this excessive?  That's not a problem, that's just normal
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Parts fail, they get old.  Things like the cap and rotor are wear items
> that are designed to be replaced regularly.
Rodan - 08 Jul 2007 06:38 GMT
"Redneckbikerjedi"  wrote:          (Chevy Blazer)

The problem is that the truck has burned up two
sets of plugs and wire and the distributor cap.
They are not wearing out, but literally burning
up and failing completely.
_________________________________________

Could there be an ignition bypass resistor that has
been shorted or miswired so that unlimited primary
current is applied to the coil during running?

Rodan.
Redneckbikerjedi - 08 Jul 2007 07:41 GMT
Great idea - I'll definately have that checked out. Thanks for the
tip!

> "Redneckbikerjedi"  wrote:          (Chevy Blazer)
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Rodan.
aarcuda69062 - 08 Jul 2007 16:52 GMT
> "Redneckbikerjedi"  wrote:          (Chevy Blazer)
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Rodan.

No, no resistor.  GM hasn't used a ballast resistor since 1974.
Redneckbikerjedi - 08 Jul 2007 03:20 GMT
Back up a minute.

I have done two tune-ups in a 17,000 mile period. Not even close to
30,000. Next, the owner's manual and the dealership both say that my
Blazer doesn't even need it's FIRST tune-up until 100,000 miles, and I
have just under 93,000 right now.

I may occasionally get late on an oil change by a thousand miles or
so, but I am doing maintainence. I use fuel injector cleaner every
three tanks. I change the air filters, etc.  I have been taking care
of this truck.

The problem is NOT that I am having to do normal work on it, the
problem is that the truck has now burned up two sets of plugs and wire
and the distributor cap at 76,000 and again at 93,000. That is NOT
normal, I don't care what you say. They are not wearing out, they are
literally burning up and failing completely.

> Wait a minute?  You're doing a tuneup every thirty thousand miles and
> considering this excessive?  That's not a problem, that's just normal
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Parts fail, they get old.  Things like the cap and rotor are wear items
> that are designed to be replaced regularly.
aarcuda69062 - 08 Jul 2007 17:08 GMT
In article
<1183861258.961937.64460@g4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>,

> Back up a minute.
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> normal, I don't care what you say. They are not wearing out, they are
> literally burning up and failing completely.

The "problem" is that no one has yet to diagnose the real problem
with this truck.
You say the tune up helps for a short while; that indicates that
it merely masks the real problem short term.
You also mention that the truck runs better in Colorado...
The only thing different between Colorado and Florida is air
density.  You either have a BARO error, an Air Mass error or a
problem with your injectors delivering the correct amount of fuel.

A lean running engine puts an enormous strain on ignition parts,
firing voltages go sky high, ignition parts wear out faster.  
Move the truck up 5000 feet in altitude and voila', it's not lean
anymore.

You need someone who can read and analyze serial data from a scan
tool, correctly calculate volumetric efficiency and compare it to
what the engine is actually operating at.

Lastly, use ONLY Delco ignition parts, cap, rotor, plugs.
Anything else will fail in a few weeks. (seriously)
Redneckbikerjedi - 08 Jul 2007 18:58 GMT
Not sure if I mentioned this already, but ALL the gas in Colorado has
Ethanol in it. There is no such animal here in Florida. (At least not
where I leave or around here) I'm wondering if that might help - is
there an Ethanol additive I can buy to test it out?

> In article
> <1183861258.961937.64...@g4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>,
[quoted text clipped - 37 lines]
> Lastly, use ONLY Delco ignition parts, cap, rotor, plugs.
> Anything else will fail in a few weeks. (seriously)
aarcuda69062 - 08 Jul 2007 22:33 GMT
In article
<1183917521.619798.53040@d55g2000hsg.googlegroups.com>,

> Not sure if I mentioned this already, but ALL the gas in Colorado has
> Ethanol in it. There is no such animal here in Florida. (At least not
> where I leave or around here) I'm wondering if that might help - is
> there an Ethanol additive I can buy to test it out?

To test -what- out?
Steve W. - 09 Jul 2007 01:44 GMT
> Not sure if I mentioned this already, but ALL the gas in Colorado has
> Ethanol in it. There is no such animal here in Florida. (At least not
> where I leave or around here) I'm wondering if that might help - is
> there an Ethanol additive I can buy to test it out?

Find gas ANYWHERE in the US that doesn't have at least 10% Ethanol in
it. I have yet to find any. Been that way for a LONG time.

Signature

Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York

Redneckbikerjedi - 10 Jul 2007 06:15 GMT
Let me qualify that statement. All the gas in Colorado had Ehtanol on
it, and it was literally plasted everywhere - on pumps, in the store,
etc. You couldn't miss it. I have no livied in Florida since about
2003, and I have year to hear or read that work anyplace in this
state, and I've ben everywhere here except south of Orlando. So that
is about 2/3rrds of the state and I have not seen or heard of it.

Maybe Florida does have it, but isn't required to tell you. that would
seem strange thos.

> > Not sure if I mentioned this already, but ALL the gas in Colorado has
> > Ethanol in it. There is no such animal here in Florida. (At least not
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> Steve W.
> Near Cooperstown, New York
Redneckbikerjedi - 08 Jul 2007 03:21 GMT
Back up a minute.

I have done two tune-ups in a 17,000 mile period. Not even close to
30,000. Next, the owner's manual and the dealership both say that my
Blazer doesn't even need it's FIRST tune-up until 100,000 miles, and I
have just under 93,000 right now.

I may occasionally get late on an oil change by a thousand miles or
so, but I am doing maintainence. I use fuel injector cleaner every
three tanks. I change the air filters, etc.  I have been taking care
of this truck.

The problem is NOT that I am having to do normal work on it, the
problem is that the truck has now burned up two sets of plugs and wire
and the distributor cap at 76,000 and again at 93,000. That is NOT
normal, I don't care what you say. They are not wearing out, they are
literally burning up and failing completely.

> Wait a minute?  You're doing a tuneup every thirty thousand miles and
> considering this excessive?  That's not a problem, that's just normal
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Parts fail, they get old.  Things like the cap and rotor are wear items
> that are designed to be replaced regularly.
 
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