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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / July 2007

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'99 Tercel air conditioning costs

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Tegger - 04 Jul 2007 19:25 GMT
The A/C in the above mentioned car is not working as well as it once did.
We've noticed a bit of a decline in cooling ability over the last year or
so.

Took the car to the dealership to see what they could do. Bad news: There
is a teeny tiny leak at a seam in the condenser, so it needs to be
replaced.

Since they cannot legally just "top up" the system until all leaks are
fixed, the repair bill would be $1,240 Cdn. Plus tax.

Would I save much on labor costs if I had the dealer evacuate the system,
installed the new condenser and dryer myself, then brought it back to them
for refilling? Is it even possible to do things this way?

And hey, happy 4th!

Signature

Tegger

Comboverfish - 04 Jul 2007 19:52 GMT
> The A/C in the above mentioned car is not working as well as it once did.
> We've noticed a bit of a decline in cooling ability over the last year or
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> --
> Tegger

I don't know of any legal issues with your plan, but I'm no authority
on that sort of thing.  You might find a shop who will "take" your
R134a for free in the process of recovery.  I'm just guessing here,
but hopefully an indy shop would atleast do it for a small fee if they
kept the R134a .  It doesn't take long or require any skill to recover
a system, other than knowing to check for refrigerant type and
contaminants before connecting the equipment.  Smart or stupid, I
seriously doubt that many shops take that precaution on a regular
basis anyway.

You will really only "need" (pay) someone with a vacuum pump and
gauges to charge the system.  It can be charged by weight using cans
with about +/- 2 oz accuracy, which is within the spec range (as
listed on a yellow underhood label, usually on the radiator support
area).  Anyone moderately competent at A/C service can do this.

The condenser should come out the front easily once you remove the
small front grille, hood latch, latch support, horn, and top radiator
support member.

Toyota MDT in MO
Tegger - 05 Jul 2007 02:47 GMT
>> The A/C in the above mentioned car is not working as well as it once
>> did. We've noticed a bit of a decline in cooling ability over the
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> listed on a yellow underhood label, usually on the radiator support
> area).  Anyone moderately competent at A/C service can do this.

What do you think of those off-the-shelf top up kits?

I'm a bit reluctant to use one of those for fear of damaging the A/C.

> The condenser should come out the front easily once you remove the
> small front grille, hood latch, latch support, horn, and top radiator
> support member.

I can't see how the dealer was figuring on $700 in labor to do the work.

Signature

Tegger

Comboverfish - 05 Jul 2007 14:51 GMT
> >> The A/C in the above mentioned car is not working as well as it once
> >> did. We've noticed a bit of a decline in cooling ability over the
[quoted text clipped - 34 lines]
>
> What do you think of those off-the-shelf top up kits?

Very little.  While someone with your intelligence and determination
could easily master A/C service with a little study/practice, someone
with your intelligence would also know not to mess with A/C work
without any prior learning or experience.  The "kit" has a charging
hose.  That's it.  Well, maybe a crappy low side gauge on the "high
end" kit.  Let someone with $500 invested in a proper pump, good
gauges, and the experience to do it right and safely charge your
system.  You will probably pay about one hour of labor (sorry,
labour).  That sounds worth it to me, unless you want to really take
the time to learn A/C safety and theory, then buy a minimum of decent
equipment.  Another thing to look for -- there are probably kits out
there with some BS combination of dye, oil, and sealer in the
refrigerant.

> I'm a bit reluctant to use one of those for fear of damaging the A/C.

This miracle A/C kit can't create a vacuum on your system.  It won't
display system pressures. What's the kit manufacturer's stance on
those issues?

> > The condenser should come out the front easily once you remove the
> > small front grille, hood latch, latch support, horn, and top radiator
> > support member.
>
> I can't see how the dealer was figuring on $700 in labor to do the work.

I don't know all of the details in your case, but simply put, just
replacing a condenser and drier, then evacuating and charging the
system (labour only) should not cost $700 US, Can, or Euro.

Toyota MDT in MO
Steve B. - 04 Jul 2007 22:55 GMT
>The A/C in the above mentioned car is not working as well as it once did.
>We've noticed a bit of a decline in cooling ability over the last year or
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>is a teeny tiny leak at a seam in the condenser, so it needs to be
>replaced.

Perhaps not the best place to take it.  Dealership is great for
warranty work and stuff that the average shop can't fix but there is
no sense paying a dealerships outlandish fees for something as
commonplace as a/c work.  

>Since they cannot legally just "top up" the system until all leaks are
>fixed, the repair bill would be $1,240 Cdn. Plus tax.

I don't know Canadian laws but lots of places in the states tell you
that same thing while it isn't necessarily true.  I try to be an
environmentally friendly person but if it comes down to 1200 or a can
of 134a every year I'll just get the can of 134a put in.  Can you
legally buy the stuff off the shelf up there like we can here?  If not
I'm sure there are plenty of shops that understand the economics of
such a repair.

If you decide to have it fixed the part itself is about $160us. Figure
a couple hours labor and all the other associated stuff that goes with
the job an a realistic cost for this repair would be somewhere in the
neighborhood of $500us.

>Would I save much on labor costs if I had the dealer evacuate the system,
>installed the new condenser and dryer myself, then brought it back to them
>for refilling? Is it even possible to do things this way?

It is possible but....  If it even has to be replaced then I would
find a good a/c shop and have them do the work.  You don't want to
have it start leaking again a couple of months later and have to go
through all the costs again.

          Steve B.
Tegger - 05 Jul 2007 02:44 GMT
>>The A/C in the above mentioned car is not working as well as it once
>>did. We've noticed a bit of a decline in cooling ability over the last
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> of 134a every year I'll just get the can of 134a put in.  Can you
> legally buy the stuff off the shelf up there like we can here?

I don't know. A quick Google suggests not.

I was considering those off-the-shelf cans of R134a, but I was afraid of
overcharging the system.

We're going to the US later this summer. Maybe I can get something there
and throw it in before we come back. Sound OK to you?

>  If not
> I'm sure there are plenty of shops that understand the economics of
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> the job an a realistic cost for this repair would be somewhere in the
> neighborhood of $500us.

That I'd be willing to pay. I'll phone around tomorrow.

>>Would I save much on labor costs if I had the dealer evacuate the
>>system, installed the new condenser and dryer myself, then brought it
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> have it start leaking again a couple of months later and have to go
> through all the costs again.

Too true.

Signature

Tegger

Steve B. - 05 Jul 2007 04:14 GMT
>I was considering those off-the-shelf cans of R134a, but I was afraid of
>overcharging the system.
>
>We're going to the US later this summer. Maybe I can get something there
>and throw it in before we come back. Sound OK to you?

I'm not a big fan of those cans as you can't see the high and low side
pressures but they are bought everyday by people I can guarantee have
a lot less common sense than you and they don't screw it up....  

Depending on how bad the leak is I'm sure you can find a shop that
will just top it off for you if you are worried about doing it
yourself.

               Steve B.
Ashton Crusher - 05 Jul 2007 06:37 GMT
>>>The A/C in the above mentioned car is not working as well as it once
>>>did. We've noticed a bit of a decline in cooling ability over the last
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>I was considering those off-the-shelf cans of R134a, but I was afraid of
>overcharging the system.

In this heat you'll have a very hard time over charging it.  I would
certainly try the do it yourself route for at least on can and see how
long it lasts.  Also, Chevy has for years said you can't charge a
system based on pressure but should do it by feeling the temperatures
of the inlet and outlet pipes of the evaporator.  You can do the same
on the Tercel most likely, they should both be about the same temp and
the temp should be cool to cold feeling.  But realistically, just buy
a DIY kit and put as much of the can in as you can and see how it
works.  If you have noticed it's stopped working well it's almost
guaranteed that it's a can low and you'll be pretty safe giving it a
shot.

And like the other poster said, it's not illegal to recharged a system
with a small leak.  The shops tell you it is because they want to do
as much $work$ as they can drum up and they make a lot more selling
you part$s and labor then they do just selling labor for a recharge.

>We're going to the US later this summer. Maybe I can get something there
>and throw it in before we come back. Sound OK to you?
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
>Too true.
Tegger - 05 Jul 2007 19:43 GMT
> The A/C in the above mentioned car is not working as well as it once
> did. We've noticed a bit of a decline in cooling ability over the last
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> And hey, happy 4th!

An update, July 5th...

There may not be any leak at all.

I took the car back to the Toyota dealer to have the tech show me
exactly where the leak was. The tech points to a dirty spot of oily
rustproofing on the upper left corner of the condenser and said "that's
the leak". That dirty rustproofing is everywhere in the engine bay, not
just on the corner of the condenser. He has no other evidence of a leak.
The spot looks old (which it is) and is dry, not wet.

It turns out:
1) He checked the pressures and found them a bit low.
2) He visually examined the condenser and found the black spot of crud.
3) He evacuated the system.

That. Was. It.

He did not repressurize the system, adding dye, to confirm the leak. He
did nothing but remove the refrigerant. He did no other testing.

According to him, he cannot legally recharge the system if there is a
leak, even just to test it. I said there is no leak, there is only a
SUSPECTED leak. He says he will not risk his A/C license testing a
system he is convinced is leaking.

I then took it straight to an independent import specialist. This guy
gave the spot a look and said that in his opinion it was not likely to
be a leak. We are booked for Monday to have him repressurize it (with
dye) and check for a leak.

Signature

Tegger

Steve W. - 05 Jul 2007 22:21 GMT
>> The A/C in the above mentioned car is not working as well as it once
>> did. We've noticed a bit of a decline in cooling ability over the last
[quoted text clipped - 43 lines]
> be a leak. We are booked for Monday to have him repressurize it (with
> dye) and check for a leak.

Your Toyota tech is an IDIOT. If you paid for what he did you should
tell them you want your money back. He utterly failed as an A/C tech. He
should have tested pressures, IF a leak was suspected then use a sniffer
around the common spots and see what shows up. Find the leak, Then
evacuate the system and repair it. If you don't find the leak recharge
with dye and cycle the system. Then look again. Find it and evac and
repair. NOT real difficult.

Signature

Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York

Steve B. - 05 Jul 2007 23:10 GMT
> An update, July 5th...
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> 2) He visually examined the condenser and found the black spot of crud.
> 3) He evacuated the system.

Good luck on Monday.  Sounds like you might have found a better shop.
I can't hear his side of the story so I hate to think poorly of that
mechanic but it sounds like he is trying to separate you from your
money.

All car a/c systems leak to a certain extent.  On an enclosed
electrical a/c system all the connections are soldered and the motor
is an integral part of the compressor so there is no reason for them
to leak.  I have a friend who is still running a window unit a/c that
was installed in 1964 and it still works as well today as it did the
day it was installed.  On a car system you have to have rubber hoses
so that things can move and the individual pieces are sealed with
double o-ring fittings so they can easily be disassembled for service.
The mobile a/c compressor has a drive shaft running through the case
because it has to be driven via the engine drive belt.  All these
places leak a teeeny tiny bit of refrigerant so it isn't unrealistic
to think that a 7 or 8 year old car needs half a can of refrigerant

                Steve B.
Tegger - 06 Jul 2007 01:14 GMT
>> An update, July 5th...
>>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> mechanic but it sounds like he is trying to separate you from your
> money.

I don't want to think poorly of him either.

I'm just upset that he drained the system but by his own admission did
no other testing than pressures and a visual of the condenser.

See here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/tercel_ac/
These tell you anything?

The whole engine bay ois civered in crud from the rustproofing.

> All car a/c systems leak to a certain extent.  On an enclosed
> electrical a/c system all the connections are soldered and the motor
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> places leak a teeeny tiny bit of refrigerant so it isn't unrealistic
> to think that a 7 or 8 year old car needs half a can of refrigerant

That was my original thinking, which is what led me to bring it in for a
"top up". We'll see...

Signature

Tegger

Tegger - 06 Jul 2007 01:11 GMT
>>> The A/C in the above mentioned car is not working as well as it once
>>> did. We've noticed a bit of a decline in cooling ability over the
[quoted text clipped - 53 lines]
> recharge with dye and cycle the system. Then look again. Find it and
> evac and repair. NOT real difficult.

I'll update Monday. I sure hope the dealer tech was wrong. That would
make things so much easier.

Signature

Tegger

bikenut99@hotmail.com - 06 Jul 2007 22:12 GMT
Hello Tegger,

Sorry to hear that you are having all these problems with your AC.

I actually don't even own/drive a car, so all my knowledge about AC
systems is rather peripheral. However, I do know a little bit about
the refrigerant regulation in Canada and in Ontario.

First of all there are two types of refrigerants that OEMs used in
automotive systems:

R12 (CFC) this is ozone depleting stuff and is regulated in Canada
(and in the US) on the federal level. Since 1994 all new AC systems no
longer use R12. In Ontario refilling a R12 system is prohibited even
if it is leak free.

R134a (HFC) is non-ozone depleting gas but has a high green house
potential (GWP) and in Canada it is regulated on the Provincial level.

In Ontario, Ministry of Environment regulates the use of R134a --
there are VERY steep fines involved in violating their regulations.

You can see a summary of their regulations on their website at:

http://www.ene.gov.on.ca/envision/Ozone/faq.htm

As you can see from their FAQ a shop is under NO OBLIGATION and SHOULD
NOT remove refrigerant from a leaking system. However, they are
forbiden from refilling or topping off a system that they suspect is
leaking.

However, they are fully allowed to refill the system for the purposes
of testing -- that is covered in the FAQ. If you want to dive into the
legaleeze of all the applicable regulations you can see the actual
regulation on the e-laws website.

In Ontario there are certain flammable alternative refrigerants that
are available for purchase over-the-counter in some automotive stores
(PartsSource, etc)

You can see info about these types of refrigerants on:

http://www.duracool.com/
http://www.redtek.com/

I would strongly urge you NOT to use any of these refrigerants because
they are highly flammable (i.e. basically a mixture of propane and/or
butane). Thus if you have a leak in the evaporator and there is a
spark you may have an explosion in the passenger compartment.

Though, R134a is available for sale over-the-counter in most US states
including NY for a nominal cost, but I would not advise it bringing it
to Canada as it would expose you to environmental fines which can be
quite substantial.

>From what I understand it is perfectly legal to have a SHOP evacuate
the system, repair it yourself, and then have the shop leak test it
and refill it.

Again, I do not have first hand knowledge of any of these matters,
just some info I came across years ago.

Regards,

Tom
Tegger - 06 Jul 2007 23:24 GMT
bikenut99@hotmail.com wrote in news:1183756346.082422.55070
@n60g2000hse.googlegroups.com:

> In Ontario, Ministry of Environment regulates the use of R134a --
> there are VERY steep fines involved in violating their regulations.

$20,000 per occurrence, the Toyota dealership tech told me...

> You can see a summary of their regulations on their website at:
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> forbiden from refilling or topping off a system that they suspect is
> leaking.

Excellent link! A printout of this will accompany me should the
independent shop find no leak.

Looks like, at the very least, the Toyota dealership tech is quite
unfamiliar with the law.

Legally, his removal of my refrigerant was theft, since I did not give
permission for it to be removed.

Moreover, it appears his license was in no jeopardy of any kind had he
left the existing refrigerant in place.

His ONLY claim to having done things right is to check the pressures and
visually examine the system for "large" oil leaks. He found the same
sort of crud on the left side of the condenser that appears over most of
the rest of the engine compartment, which is what led him to condemn the
system.

Federal law does not prescribe any specific leak testing that would
involve dyes or sniffers, and he did not perform any such tests.

Monday might be interesting...

Signature

Tegger

Tegger - 09 Jul 2007 17:16 GMT
bikenut99@hotmail.com wrote in news:1183756346.082422.55070
@n60g2000hse.googlegroups.com:

>>From what I understand it is perfectly legal to have a SHOP evacuate
> the system, repair it yourself, and then have the shop leak test it
> and refill it.

Update July 09/07:

The car is fixed. There was no leak.

The independent shop determined that the Toyota dealership tech
misidentified the crud on the condenser. It was far too dry and crumbly to
have been oil leaking from the condenser.

The shop recharged the system along with some dye, let it run for a half-
hour, then checked for evidence of leaks. None were found.

The Toyota dealership later refunded me the cost of the original work, plus
the value of the refrigerant that was incorrectly taken from me. Once I
convinced them that a mistake had been made, they were good about it.

Thanks to all for their help.

My, the A/C is icy now!

Signature

Tegger

Steve B. - 10 Jul 2007 05:35 GMT
>Thanks to all for their help.
>
>My, the A/C is icy now!

Glad to hear your issue has been resolved.

Thanx for letting us know how it turned out.  It's always
a little aggravating to spend a lot of time with a person on
some issue and then never hear the resolution.  Kind of like
reading everything but the last chapter in a murder
mystery.

           Steve B.
Tegger - 10 Jul 2007 12:44 GMT
Steve B. <none@none.com> wrote in news:313693hlunjkmh7ho579barc06lllqpu4a@
4ax.com:

>>Thanks to all for their help.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> reading everything but the last chapter in a murder
> mystery.

I forgot to mention that the Toyota tech had originally removed .51 lbs of
refrigerant from the system. The system holds about one pound total, so it
was at half-volume.

I was told the A/C system will naturally leak at a rate of roughly one
ounce per year. So after eight years you would expect this '99 car's system
to have about eight ounces left in it, which is just about what it did
have.

Signature

Tegger

Comboverfish - 05 Jul 2007 23:59 GMT
> > The A/C in the above mentioned car is not working as well as it once
> > did. We've noticed a bit of a decline in cooling ability over the last
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> There may not be any leak at all.

I'm certain the system has leaked out some, otherwise you would not
have experienced a performance loss.  There are other possibilities,
but you just mentioned that the original guy said pressures were lower
than normal.  Sounds like a system at about 1/2 to 2/3 charge to me.

> I took the car back to the Toyota dealer to have the tech show me
> exactly where the leak was. The tech points to a dirty spot of oily
> rustproofing on the upper left corner of the condenser and said "that's
> the leak". That dirty rustproofing is everywhere in the engine bay, not
> just on the corner of the condenser. He has no other evidence of a leak.
> The spot looks old (which it is) and is dry, not wet.

I find most "condenser" leaks (barring high-speed road debris damage)
to be right around the pipe fittings.  I can never get these "leaks"
to indicate with a sniffer, and they are typically of a very small
diameter of residue.  My assumption is that since these locations
suffer great temperature swings and are about the thinnest, weakest
spots in the system, they are prone to expansion and vibration (IOW
you'll never catch them leaking, and the leak is very minor).

The most likely culprit of your very slow leak over 8 years is your
expansion valve.  If it is leaking that slowly, I would just ignore
it; install a drier, then evac and charge the system.  Your
refrigerant is already recovered, so you're 1/3 of the way there.

> It turns out:
> 1) He checked the pressures and found them a bit low.
> 2) He visually examined the condenser and found the black spot of crud.
> 3) He evacuated the system.
>
> That. Was. It.

Why did he recover?  Did you authorize the shop to remove your
refrigerant at that time?

> He did not repressurize the system, adding dye, to confirm the leak. He
> did nothing but remove the refrigerant. He did no other testing.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> be a leak. We are booked for Monday to have him repressurize it (with
> dye) and check for a leak.

He may tell you the same things that I am saying.  Better still
though, he will actually see the car and not just guess from
experience as I am.

Good luck.

Toyota MDT in MO
Tegger - 06 Jul 2007 01:10 GMT
> He may tell you the same things that I am saying.  Better still
> though, he will actually see the car and not just guess from
> experience as I am.

I'll just have to wait until Monday, I guess.

I did NOT authorize anybody to evacuate the system, and nobody told me this
was being done.

The tech and the Service Advisor both told me that, according to Canadian
law, if a car is brought in and there is even the suspicion of a leak, the
system must be evacuated before the car is taken back by the customer. I find
that hard to believe, considering the independent was quite willing to do his
own diagnostics, with dye and all.

It probably won't tell you much, but I took some photos of the area in
question:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/tercel_ac/

The grunge buildup on the condenser is only on the left side. The grunge
buildup on everything else is all over the place. That's 3 years of
indiscriminate "drippy" rustproofing.

Signature

Tegger

 
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