96 Accord will not turn over

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Grey-hound - 08 Jul 2007 22:28 GMT

Greetings,
I have an 96 Accord 4 dr LX a/t with 156k miles. Initially would click at
starter solenoid when trying to start but now finally refuses to turn over
at the starter. Replaced starter, master relay, starter signal fuse (in fuse
box) and battery load tests ok. I am pretty much at a loss any ideas.
Thanks
Greyhound
Tampa, FL

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Hal - 09 Jul 2007 07:00 GMT

> Greetings,
> I have an 96 Accord 4 dr LX a/t with 156k miles. Initially would click at
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Greyhound
> Tampa, FL

You need to make sure that you have a good 12 volt feed to the
starter, and you need to make sure you're getting a 12 volt signal on
the start wire when you turn the key to the start position. A few
possibilities come to mind, bad neutral start switch, bad ignition
switch, or maybe a fried fusible link. Since you've thrown a bunch of
parts at this problem already without success I would suggest doing
some diagnostics prior to changing anything else.

Chris

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Bob Johnstone - 09 Jul 2007 16:28 GMT

> Greetings,
> I have an 96 Accord 4 dr LX a/t with 156k miles. Initially would click
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Greyhound
> Tampa, FL

If you've replaced the starter, main relay.... rather expensive... Did
you ever think about the switch on the column?

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Grey-hound - 09 Jul 2007 22:40 GMT

I just did a continuity check on the switch in the column and in the start
position I was not getting anything while the other positions I was as the
manual said I was suppose to. Now I just need to find out if I am able to
replace the switch in the column or is this a thing only a dealer can do. I
can tackle most anything. Anyone ever remove one of these before?
Thanks
Greyhound

>> Greetings,
>> I have an 96 Accord 4 dr LX a/t with 156k miles. Initially would click at
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> If you've replaced the starter, main relay.... rather expensive... Did
> you ever think about the switch on the column?

Reply to this Message

Hal - 10 Jul 2007 00:47 GMT

On Jul 9, 2:40 pm, "Grey-hound" <grey-hound@"removethis"verizon.net>
wrote:

> I just did a continuity check on the switch in the column and in the start
> position I was not getting anything while the other positions I was as the
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Thanks
> Greyhound

Assuming your diagnostics have CORRECTLY pointed you to not getting
the proper 12 volt signal to engage the starter solenoid, I would
suggest testing your finding with the aid of an assistant before
tearing apart your column. The start signal can be jumped from the
battery, and with the key in the run position it should cause the
engine to start when you manually override the circuit.

Plus you can test for 12 volts at the starter, neutral start switch,
etc with the key turned to start if you have an assistant.

Normally, the ignition switch is installed with bolts that are
tightened until the heads break off. It's supposed to be a theft-
deterrent thing. To get them out you'll probably have to chisel a
notch into them and then use a standard screwdriver to back them out.
You can buy replacements at the dealer or you can probably find some
normal replacements at the hardware store to make the job easier if
you have to do it again.

Chris

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Bob Johnstone - 10 Jul 2007 21:25 GMT

> I just did a continuity check on the switch in the column and in the
> start position I was not getting anything while the other positions I
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>> If you've replaced the starter, main relay.... rather expensive...
>> Did you ever think about the switch on the column?

I've done one in an Integra. Not too difficult. The switch is on one
side, the lock mechanism on the other. You can pull the switch without
tearing everything apart.

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