Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / July 2007

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

Can't get brakes to bleed (1978 Chevy K10)

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
ngpost1@hotmail.com - 18 Jul 2007 02:45 GMT
I just rebuild the front end (ball joints, tie rods, bearings, etc)
including the calipers and rotors and put new rear wheel cylinders on
along with about 8 foot worth of rear brake line, rear brake hose and
a new master cylinder.

I cannot get the front brakes to bleed the peddle is very, very soft.

I believe the back brakes are OK.  I removed the front brake line from
the MC and plugged the hole.  When I did this the peddle was rock
solid.  However, with the front line hooked up (along with the back)
the peddle goes to the floor.

I have went through about 3 gallons of brake fluid trying to bleed the
front brakes.  I replaced the bleeder screw just in case those were
the culprit but it didn't make a difference.  I don't see fluid
leaking from anywhere so there is no obvious leek that would be
letting air in.

Any ideas on where I should look to find the problem?

Thanks in advance.
dye - 18 Jul 2007 23:39 GMT
>I just rebuild the front end (ball joints, tie rods, bearings, etc)
>including the calipers and rotors and put new rear wheel cylinders on
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
>Any ideas on where I should look to find the problem?

this is a vague memory, but some systems have a "shuttle"
valve in the system that senses (fluid volume, pressure difference?)
between the front and rear circuits, and can cut off the faulty
circuit as well as lighting a warning light.  Check the brake
lines from the master on down and see if there is a valve like
thing with a button to press while the brakes are bled.

--Ken

Signature

Ken R. Dye                               an optimist is a guy             |
Chicago, Illinois                        that has never had               |
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8746   much experience                  |
dye1146 at sbcglobal dot net                                 archy        |

Steve B. - 19 Jul 2007 00:14 GMT
>I just rebuild the front end (ball joints, tie rods, bearings, etc)
>including the calipers and rotors and put new rear wheel cylinders on
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
>Any ideas on where I should look to find the problem?

Get behind the wheel and hit the brake as fast as you can and hard
enough to scare it.  I had this happen on a similar vintage vehicle
before..  There is a valve in the system (part of the proportioning
valve?   heck if I remember) that sense the lack of pressure and
directs the fluid to the other circuit.  They get old and wonky and
stick when you bleed the brake.  

               Steve B.
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.