>> > In article <f8jbkv$97...@aioe.org>, alfred <alfred_...@aol.com>
>> > wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 35 lines]
> difference) -and- the explanation (one is hot, the other is load).
> Seems quite a bit like the thread here.
ok, but if the light in the house has a hot lead connected to it's
ground and the fixture is grounded it will short out. It is a bad idea
to connect a hot lead to the lead where the ground should be. Also, I
seriously doubt that Dodge would go to the trouble of color coding the
alternator wires if there was not a specific terminal they should be
connected to. Also there is something called polarization of the
alternator. I am not certain how this figures in, but the answer that it
does not matter simply does not pass the test of common sense. repeat
there is NO blue wire, only red and green. Now does anyone in this
expert group know the answer?
> Toyota MDT in MO
aarcuda69062 - 31 Jul 2007 02:45 GMT
> >> > In article <f8jbkv$97...@aioe.org>, alfred <alfred_...@aol.com>
> >> > wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 39 lines]
> ground and the fixture is grounded it will short out. It is a bad idea
> to connect a hot lead to the lead where the ground should be.
Does the light bulb care whether hot is connected to the center
contact versus the threaded shell?
> Also, I
> seriously doubt that Dodge would go to the trouble of color coding the
> alternator wires if there was not a specific terminal they should be
> connected to.
You'd have a point if which terminal were the reason for the
color coding of the wire.
Were it an issue, ChryCo would have made the terminals so they
couldn't be interchanged.
> Also there is something called polarization of the
> alternator.
No there isn't.
> I am not certain how this figures in,
It doesn't unless you fibbed and this isn't a 70s alternator to
begin with.
> but the answer that it
> does not matter simply does not pass the test of common sense.
It does if (as I said) the field circuit is totally isolated.
> repeat
> there is NO blue wire, only red and green. Now does anyone in this
> expert group know the answer?
The answer is; there are three wires that connect a 70s vintage
ChryCo alternator. Wanna start over?
Comboverfish - 31 Jul 2007 06:24 GMT
> >> > In article <f8jbkv$97...@aioe.org>, alfred <alfred_...@aol.com>
> >> > wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 46 lines]
> there is NO blue wire, only red and green. Now does anyone in this
> expert group know the answer?
My parallel wasn't perfect, but you are going way off tangent with
it. Why don't you try hooking one of your mystery wires (might I
suggest the B+ wire) to the chassis or engine block and see where it
gets you. That's as lame as hooking a black hot wire to neutral or
ground. I made a comparison to having a spst switch and two wires
made to go to the two terminals on the switch. You can't f.ck that up
unless you go outside the implied constraints of the argument.
Similarly, you can't f.ck up your "70's era Chryco alternator" field
wires by going out of the constraints of what you were told will
work. You were also told by several people that one wire is B+ and
the other is regulated ground from the remote regulator assly. If you
have a voltmeter, test light, RC car motor, or a tongue you should be
able to figure out which is which from that info.
Toyota MDT in MO
Steve - 31 Jul 2007 18:07 GMT
>>>>In article <f8jbkv$97...@aioe.org>, alfred <alfred_...@aol.com>
>>>>wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 42 lines]
> alternator wires if there was not a specific terminal they should be
> connected to.
Listen carefully. At the ALTERNATOR, it doesn't matter which wire goes
where. But the OTHER end of one of the wires needs to go to the
top-center pin on the voltage regulator, and the OTHER end of the OTHER
wire needs to go to the outboard pin on the voltage regulator. Both
wires are part of the engine wiring harness. Would you have Mopar splice
wires so that both wires are (pick a color) on the alternator end but
coded correctly on the VR end? Are you really that dense?