At idol speed my dash lights and headlights dim. (1987 Towncar, 5L
engine) When motor speeds up they get bright again. Thought it was the
alternator so got a rebuilt one from NAPA. 3 weeks later the problem
still exists. Now the alternator does not charge at any speed. Car has
new battery cables and coil.
I have noticed that the electric door lock on rear door clicks buy
itself occasionally.
Why would lights dim significantly at idol speed?
If there is some current drain or short wouldn't it affect the current
at any speed?
If there is some current drain, would it cause the alternator to not
charge at all?
Will a new alternator be more reliable than a rebuilt one? (The NAPA
store said they have as many new alternators returned as rebuilt ones)
N8N - 14 Sep 2007 15:17 GMT
> At idol speed my dash lights and headlights dim. (1987 Towncar, 5L
> engine) When motor speeds up they get bright again. Thought it was the
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> Will a new alternator be more reliable than a rebuilt one? (The NAPA
> store said they have as many new alternators returned as rebuilt ones)
It's a Ford, I have the same issue with my F-150, I have been told
that there's nothing I can do about it.
I would far rather have bought a Chevy or Dodge, but this seems to be
Ford country, no used and cheap non-Ford pickups to be had.
Of course, now that I *bought* the F-150 I have seen both a late 60's
Jimmy for sale locally and also a nice Dodge stepside WITH A
STICKSHIFT NO LESS that has been at the corner garage for the last two
weeks. Grr.
nate
Pete C. - 14 Sep 2007 16:27 GMT
> > At idol speed my dash lights and headlights dim. (1987 Towncar, 5L
> > engine) When motor speeds up they get bright again. Thought it was the
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
>
> nate
It would seem the problem might be able to be resolved by installing a
smaller diameter pulley on the alternator?
Scott Dorsey - 14 Sep 2007 15:53 GMT
>At idol speed my dash lights and headlights dim. (1987 Towncar, 5L
>engine) When motor speeds up they get bright again. Thought it was the
>alternator so got a rebuilt one from NAPA. 3 weeks later the problem
>still exists. Now the alternator does not charge at any speed. Car has
>new battery cables and coil.
Did you do any voltage and current measurement?
In this car, is the voltage regulator built into the alternator or is it
external?
Are all connections to the alternator, battery, and fuse panel all nice
and bright?
>I have noticed that the electric door lock on rear door clicks buy
>itself occasionally.
This is probably unrelated. Take the door locking system fuse out anyway,
though, just to make sure.
>Why would lights dim significantly at idol speed?
Because the voltage regulator isn't regulating properly, or because you
have too much load to allow it to do so. Measuring the battery draw at
idle and running and the voltages at idle and running will tell you a lot.
>If there is some current drain or short wouldn't it affect the current
>at any speed?
Probably, but remember the alternator can produce a lot more current at
high RPM.
>If there is some current drain, would it cause the alternator to not
>charge at all?
Possible, but very unlikely.
>Will a new alternator be more reliable than a rebuilt one? (The NAPA
>store said they have as many new alternators returned as rebuilt ones)
Depends where you buy it from and how good their rebuilders are. You
may well have a bum replacement part. Voltage and current readings will
tell you for sure.
--scott

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"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
TomO - 14 Sep 2007 18:27 GMT
> At idol speed my dash lights and headlights dim. (1987 Towncar, 5L
> engine) When motor speeds up they get bright again. Thought it was the
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> Will a new alternator be more reliable than a rebuilt one? (The NAPA
> store said they have as many new alternators returned as rebuilt ones)
One thought came to mind, but first a question or two.
You said you have new battery cables and a new coil. What is the
condition of the battery?
Has this car always displayed this problem, or did it start happening
sometime recently?
I'm thinking that a worn battery can be drawing more current from the
system as it is trying to charge. This extra current draw would be more
noticeable at idle that at speed.
Of course, this is just a guess.
John S. - 14 Sep 2007 19:49 GMT
> At idol speed my dash lights and headlights dim. (1987 Towncar, 5L
> engine) When motor speeds up they get bright again. Thought it was the
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> Will a new alternator be more reliable than a rebuilt one? (The NAPA
> store said they have as many new alternators returned as rebuilt ones)
Is this a recent change or have the lights always dimmed somewhat at
an idle. I can notice some dimming at an idle on my 2 Volvo cars and
i've seen that happen on others. It's more noticable when there are a
lot of components drawing power.
sdlomi2 - 14 Sep 2007 23:50 GMT
> At idol speed my dash lights and headlights dim. (1987 Towncar, 5L
> engine) When motor speeds up they get bright again. Thought it was the
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> Will a new alternator be more reliable than a rebuilt one? (The NAPA
> store said they have as many new alternators returned as rebuilt ones)
Looks as if you traded a good one for a defective one. If NAPA dealer
is a lo-volume store, it may still have your old "core". If so, try to
trade back & refund your $. Then have it checked by an alter. rebuilder
before re-installing it--chances are good it's ok. Even my wife's '05
Chrysler's lights dim at idle, as well as my '03 GMC, my '02 Camaro with
12000 miles, and my '87 S10 Blazer. BTW: If your lites are actually dimming
TOO MUCH, that rear door lock could likely be drawing the extra power which
only shows up at idle. It needs to be disconnected regardless, as IIRC,
that car's door locks work (and could drain the battery) even with ignition
cut off. Luck to you. s
boxing@sasktel.net - 19 Sep 2007 04:25 GMT
some years ago i had an olds toronado where the lights dimmed when I
was stopped at a red light with the head lights, heater/defroster, and
rear defroster all on. I asked a local alternator rebuild shop to
rebuild the alternator so it would put out more amps. So I think they
boosted it from about 70 amps to 105. that solved my problem. So if it
is just normal accessories that are causing your problem this could be
the solution. If there is short circuit draining the battery then you
will have to get that fixed. The voltage at the battery should be
about 13.2 when the car is shut off. When the car is running it should
be higher than that, maybe around 14 or 15 volts.