You might want to fix it before the wheel and axle fall
off in about a month or two.
Get a complete rebuilt axle assembly.
It is cheaper.

That is correct.  If you are feeling froggy they make a split boot
that you can put on that has a seam that can be glued but they are a
really short term fix.  Doubt you will find a pro willing to put one
on.

I would go ahead and replace the axle and boot at the same time.  You
have to do all the labor anyway and the joint is probably worn anyway.

                Steve B.

Silicone up a rubber boot that is constantly spinning and twisting?
C'mon....

Makes sense to me since the same disassembly occurs.

Since the boot is there to keep moisture away from the joint and keep
the lubricant in place around the joint, yes that's also correct.

Well, if I weere you I would fix it before it locks up.

Although since you apparently want to save money by using silicone,
you might also try some muffler patch tape.

That is all correct.

Usually when 'I' see torn boots on CV's or ball joints or tie rod ends,
that means the part has worn enough to go beyond the design specs of the
boot so it stretches and tears.  (unless this is an off road vehicle,
where sticks and stones come into play)

I would replace the whole thing because the labor to fix it properly is
the same or higher due to cleaning as to change it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Yup, this is true.

This is also true.

Replace the joint entirely.  If you replace just the boot, the chances
of early failure are high, and it's not much more work just to replace the
whole damn thing.
--scott

He is correct.

Depending on the make and model it may be faster and cheaper to replace
the entire axle assembly. On most domestics this is the better option
than even bothering to replace one joint. Keep in mind that if one side
has torn the other side may not be far behind either.

Not really a hard job for a DIYer. Jack up the front end. Pull the tire.
Loosen the large axle retaining nut on the hub end. On most you will
want to look at how the lower ball joint comes out of the knuckle and
get it all loosened up. Now on many all you need to do to remove the
axle is to get a couple of pry bars and go between the inner joint and
the transaxle housing and pop it free (kind of like your pulling a nail)
You may lose some trans fluid depending on what angle your working at.
If so remember to check it and add the correct amount when your done.
Now once you have the inner joint free, go and turn the steering wheel
to the opposite of the side your working on. So in your case turn LEFT.
Now give the axle a good sharp rap with a dead blow hammer or use a
block of wood and a hammer. Take the nut off and push the lower ball
joint connection apart. Now rotate the steering knuckle to the right by
hand and work the axle out of the hub at the same time. Remove the axle
and reverse the procedure to install the new one. On a lot of domestics
it's about an hours job.

They sell those automarket "fit all" type of boots in parts
stores...they don't cost that much.
You'll have to pull out your CV joint and "re-manufacture" it yourself
though. :)

Best of luck
www.autorepairforums.net

Yeah, instead of fixing the CV joint or even just replacing the boot,
the entire axle shaft is now a semi-routine replacement item. Fairly
cheap if you get a rebuilt, but some folks believe that they are
inferior to the expensive new ones. I've never had the CV joint fail
on a rebuilt, but i did have the axle shaft snap once. (on a
relatively gentle standing start with a Honda civic, no less. I assume
a manufacturing defect in the axle, not a problem with the CV joint
rebuilding).